I know this is probably a stupid question but do the Takom AMX-13 rubber-padded aftermarket tracks work on the Takom model?
I see they are listed as fitting the Heller and Tamiya kits and assume that they would fit but would like to be sure before purchase. Also are they workable or simply individual links? Thanks for any help.
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Takom AMX 13 Tracks question

dtniedert

Joined: December 11, 2014
KitMaker: 152 posts
Armorama: 139 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 12:49 AM UTC

Scottosaurus

Joined: February 15, 2006
KitMaker: 83 posts
Armorama: 59 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 12:52 AM UTC
Hi:
It's not a dumb question - I had wondered the same thing when I got my set. Yes they do. I just finished assembling a set for my TAKOM AMX-13/90 and they fit perfectly. They're not workable.
Cheers,
Scott
It's not a dumb question - I had wondered the same thing when I got my set. Yes they do. I just finished assembling a set for my TAKOM AMX-13/90 and they fit perfectly. They're not workable.
Cheers,
Scott

dtniedert

Joined: December 11, 2014
KitMaker: 152 posts
Armorama: 139 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 12:54 AM UTC
Thanks Scott for the quick response. Too bad they are not workable though. So by default I'm guessing the Fruilmodel tracks are good to go too?

dtniedert

Joined: December 11, 2014
KitMaker: 152 posts
Armorama: 139 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 01:19 AM UTC
I do not want to start another topic....but since I brought up Fruilmodel tracks. How do you join the pewter sprockets together? Cyanoacrylate glue does not seem to work too great and a soldering iron burns through very quickly.
Would JB weld work? Also what is best method to attach the pewter type sprockets to the model plastic?
Would JB weld work? Also what is best method to attach the pewter type sprockets to the model plastic?

RobinNilsson


Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 01:50 AM UTC
I compared the tracks in one of my AMX-13 kits with the parts in the AMX-13 rubber block track box and to my amazement the parts were identical . Maybe Takom figured out that it would be less costly to make one set of moulds instead of two and use the tracks for their own kits as well 
Use epoxy glue for white metal, use a sand paper to prepare the surface first.
One way to avoid the sticky business with epoxy when gluing parts in position on the model is to use epoxy to glue a thin sheet of styrene or a styrene rod to the the white metal or photoetch and then glue the "styrene" part to the rest of the kit.
/ Robin

Use epoxy glue for white metal, use a sand paper to prepare the surface first.
One way to avoid the sticky business with epoxy when gluing parts in position on the model is to use epoxy to glue a thin sheet of styrene or a styrene rod to the the white metal or photoetch and then glue the "styrene" part to the rest of the kit.
/ Robin

dtniedert

Joined: December 11, 2014
KitMaker: 152 posts
Armorama: 139 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 01:56 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I compared the tracks in one of my AMX-13 kits with the parts in the AMX-13 rubber block track box and to my amazement the parts were identical . Maybe Takom figured out that it would be less costly to make one set of moulds instead of two and use the tracks for their own kits as well
Use epoxy glue for white metal, use a sand paper to prepare the surface first.
One way to avoid the sticky business with epoxy when gluing parts in position on the model is to use epoxy to glue a thin sheet of styrene or a styrene rod to the the white metal or photoetch and then glue the "styrene" part to the rest of the kit.
/ Robin
Thanks Robin. I never considered sanding the surface prior to gluing. I will try that.

Cantstopbuyingkits

Joined: January 28, 2015
KitMaker: 2,099 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 04:51 AM UTC
I have their 13/75 kit, and the all metal tracks don't have any pins moulded in either.

Das_Abteilung

Joined: August 31, 2010
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 351 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 07:20 AM UTC
If you like soldering, there is special low temperature solder available for white metal and low-voltage or controllable-temperature mains irons. Railway modellers have been soldering white metal kits for decades.

bison126

Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 11:52 AM UTC
The Friul tracks are nice and give you a proper sagging but they are not accurate in shape.
Olivier
Olivier

Cantstopbuyingkits

Joined: January 28, 2015
KitMaker: 2,099 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 12:04 PM UTC
Quoted Text
The Friul tracks are nice and give you a proper sagging but they are not accurate in shape.
Olivier
How are they mot accurate in shape, Oliver?

bison126

Joined: June 10, 2004
KitMaker: 5,329 posts
Armorama: 5,204 posts

Posted: Wednesday, March 15, 2017 - 03:47 PM UTC
Quoted Text
How are they mot accurate in shape, Oliver?
The link misses tiny holes on the outer edges and the rubber pad is not beveled as it should be.
Boxart (sorry I don't have a photo of the actual part at hand right now)

Real one

Olivier
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