AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Photo etch not primed?
camper66
South Carolina, United States
Joined: August 09, 2010
KitMaker: 53 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Joined: August 09, 2010
KitMaker: 53 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 12:26 AM UTC
I working on a model with some very detailed photo etch parts and am afraid if I prime (normally use Tamiya primer) I will lose a lot of detail. Has anyone ever painted acrylics directly onto a photo etch part? Any problems with adhesion?
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 12:56 AM UTC
"Problems", you say? Why, yes. Paint will wipe right off of brass, if it is not primered.
jfeenstra
Alberta, Canada
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
Armorama: 342 posts
Joined: April 24, 2014
KitMaker: 342 posts
Armorama: 342 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 01:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
"Problems", you say? Why, yes. Paint will wipe right off of brass, if it is not primered.
Really? I never prime my models and use an abundance of photoetch, metal barrels, etc. and have never had any major issue with Tamiya acrylics (or others such as Vallejo) wiping right off the brass. I'm not suggesting that priming isn't a good idea to assist in adhesion, but it's not an absolute necessity if you take some care.
Knuckles
Oregon, United States
Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 266 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 01:25 AM UTC
Hi Tyler.
Try wiping it down with a lint-free cloth and some 99% isopropyl. That'll remove any surface deposits and allow you a good foundation to start painting on. I do this and get mostly good results without priming the tiny parts (cockpit panels, for instance). One pass with my airbrush, pin wash, and maybe a hit with a dry brush and I call it good.
Try wiping it down with a lint-free cloth and some 99% isopropyl. That'll remove any surface deposits and allow you a good foundation to start painting on. I do this and get mostly good results without priming the tiny parts (cockpit panels, for instance). One pass with my airbrush, pin wash, and maybe a hit with a dry brush and I call it good.
Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 01:42 AM UTC
While it's too late for you to try on this build as it is already assembled, here is one other thing to consider. While the PE is still attacked to the fret(s)take the entire fret and place it in house hold vinegar. As the vinegar is an acid it will etch the brass which will help with paint adhesion. It only takes a short time so don't leave it in too long and be sure to rinse thoroughly with water.
camper66
South Carolina, United States
Joined: August 09, 2010
KitMaker: 53 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Joined: August 09, 2010
KitMaker: 53 posts
Armorama: 36 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 02:12 AM UTC
Thanks so much for the replies. I always prime my photo etch, but I know I will lose alot the detail on these parts. I feel more comfortable trying it without the primer this time. Thanks.
Removed by original poster on 03/17/17 - 10:09:45 (GMT).
retiredyank
Arkansas, United States
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Joined: June 29, 2009
KitMaker: 11,610 posts
Armorama: 7,843 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 03:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text"Problems", you say? Why, yes. Paint will wipe right off of brass, if it is not primered.
Really? I never prime my models and use an abundance of photoetch, metal barrels, etc. and have never had any major issue with Tamiya acrylics (or others such as Vallejo) wiping right off the brass. I'm not suggesting that priming isn't a good idea to assist in adhesion, but it's not an absolute necessity if you take some care.
I have built, at least seven models that included etch. Paint did not adhere to any of them, if they weren't primed. I even painted one and, immediately put it in a box. I pulled it out and some of the paint had flaked off of the etch. I have tried MM(acrylics and lacquers), Tamiya acryls, Floquil, and Vallejo. None of them took.
alewar
Canelones, Uruguay
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Posted: Thursday, March 16, 2017 - 03:45 PM UTC
Hi, I usually add krylon black directly from the can as primer. It's isn't a hobby primer but iIdon't lost any details.
Maybe this happen with 1/76 or 1/72 scales Idon't know.
To work with metal parts it's better to clean them with isopropyl alcohol and pass them over the stove to soften a bit.
In the past iIdon't use primer and don't have problems with Tamiya or model master ones.
HTH
Regards from the south
Álvaro
Maybe this happen with 1/76 or 1/72 scales Idon't know.
To work with metal parts it's better to clean them with isopropyl alcohol and pass them over the stove to soften a bit.
In the past iIdon't use primer and don't have problems with Tamiya or model master ones.
HTH
Regards from the south
Álvaro