AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Panel lines and shading weapons

Cookie

Joined: September 21, 2003
KitMaker: 588 posts
Armorama: 490 posts

Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 06:35 PM UTC
I've read somewhere here that a pencil can be used for highlighting panel lines and for weathering weapons sush as machine guns. Anyone any advice on the methods and what type of pencil to use.
brandydoguk

Joined: October 04, 2002
KitMaker: 1,495 posts
Armorama: 234 posts

Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 07:52 PM UTC

Knuckles

Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 266 posts

Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 08:37 PM UTC
I use colored pencils, as well as your standard yellow pencil. Copper, gold, bronze, and silver. Don't just limit yourself to weapons. Works wonders on worn, exposed metal surfaces and manual control interfaces. You can also do buttons, and insignias, and.....

Bravo1102

Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 2,864 posts
Armorama: 2,497 posts

Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 09:59 PM UTC
Standard pencil lead as in a mechanical pencil. There you can get it nice and sharp with the sandpaper.
"B" weight lead should be avoided as it is too soft unless doing large areas of bare metal. Standard yellow pencil is 2H. 3H and 4H are harder lead and give more subtle results.
"B" weight lead should be avoided as it is too soft unless doing large areas of bare metal. Standard yellow pencil is 2H. 3H and 4H are harder lead and give more subtle results.

Knuckles

Joined: March 09, 2017
KitMaker: 525 posts
Armorama: 266 posts

Posted: Thursday, May 04, 2017 - 10:23 PM UTC
My standard technique for weapons is as follows:
I airbrush a coat of Model Master buffable gun metal. Next, I use my fingers and rub some Vallejo Steel pigment over the entire works. Next I buff it up by just rubbing it in an old T shirt. Then I hit the high edges with a standard #2 pencil, then apply a very precise pin wash of black panel liner to the recessed areas, avoiding any clean up-spots. Do not apply a top coat, as it will destroy all of the bright metal work you just did.
I airbrush a coat of Model Master buffable gun metal. Next, I use my fingers and rub some Vallejo Steel pigment over the entire works. Next I buff it up by just rubbing it in an old T shirt. Then I hit the high edges with a standard #2 pencil, then apply a very precise pin wash of black panel liner to the recessed areas, avoiding any clean up-spots. Do not apply a top coat, as it will destroy all of the bright metal work you just did.

varanusk



Joined: July 04, 2013
KitMaker: 1,288 posts
Armorama: 942 posts

Posted: Friday, May 05, 2017 - 07:15 PM UTC
Sounds good, will try it next time. Thanks!

Das_Abteilung

Joined: August 31, 2010
KitMaker: 365 posts
Armorama: 351 posts

Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 05:30 AM UTC
Not forgetting that metal parts of most most firearms start out black through being Parkerised, blued, phosphated or even painted - depending on age and source. Over time these can wear off, chip and scratch. Barrels on automatic weapons will most probably take on a matt grey appearance. In peacetime, weapons may be re-finished as part of periodic refurbishment.
There is a growing current trend towards having weapons finished in tactical colours
There is a growing current trend towards having weapons finished in tactical colours

Bravo1102

Joined: December 08, 2003
KitMaker: 2,864 posts
Armorama: 2,497 posts

Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 05:54 AM UTC
Quoted Text
There is a growing current trend towards having weapons finished in tactical colours
To give an example of the color scheme of a weapon; M240 loaders machine gun on an M1 had black plastic grip, the body was dull gun metal and the barrel was worn metal with bright silver clamps. The feed cover was painted black.
The refurbished 50 caliber M2 had olive drab painted bodies. Our ancient M85 in the M60 were typically very worn gun metal looking like the perfect example of the techniques with pencil lead.

GeraldOwens

Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts

Posted: Tuesday, May 09, 2017 - 07:08 AM UTC
Just remember that pencil lead must be the absolutely last thing applied to the finish. If you overspray with a clear flat, the metallic sheen disappears, and it just turns dark gray.
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