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Armor/AFV: Techniques
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Priming 3d printed items
27-1025
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 02:40 AM UTC
Finally getting around to using some of the stuff from Shapeways. I did sit them out in sunlight and washed/dipped them in Simply Green. My question is if Tamiya Spray Primer is ok to use or is it too strong?
jon_a_its
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 01:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Finally getting around to using some of the stuff from Shapeways. I did sit them out in sunlight and washed/dipped them in Simply Green. My question is if Tamiya Spray Primer is ok to use or is it too strong?



What does Shapeways website for the materiel it was printed in say?

Not used Tamiya Spray Primer, but provided you have degreased properly, then test spray eg, the underneath?

I have used Holts Cataloy putty to err.. fill & then rattlecan filler/primer on PLA 3D printed parts.
27-1025
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 01:52 PM UTC
It wasn't that clear on the topic. It talks about UV curing and then degreasing with simply green. Somewhere I read to only use "acrylic primer". Don't know if Tamiya meets that criteria.
jon_a_its
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 02:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

It wasn't that clear on the topic. It talks about UV curing and then degreasing with simply green. Somewhere I read to only use "acrylic primer". Don't know if Tamiya meets that criteria.



Clearer now, I can't comment about The Tamiya primer, not used it, others may pitch in about that, if it doesn't smell like lacquer it could be ok

Quote from T'internet... "Tamiya Fine Surface Primer is ideal for preparing your plastic model parts made of ABS and Styrene plastic for paint. The primer may also be used for metal parts. The light gray color primer is great for dark color applications; while Tamiya’s white surface primer is ideal for light color applications. Both primers bite well into plastic surfaces and even fill in small scratches and imperfections. Tamiya’s surface primers may also be wet sanded before paint is applied. Each can contain 180ml...."

OK, Automotive filler/primers should be OK, provided they don't smell too much like lacquer/cellulose, so Mr Hobby 500 is definately out.

Vallejo Polyurethane primer isn't suitable as it isn't sandable/workable nor are Badger Minitaire Primers.

The Badger Stynylrez brand is now my new favourite primer, as despite being called Acrylic Polyeurethane it sprays & fills really well, doesn't smell of anything, and is workable/sandable!
In order of err "Thickness", white, grey, sand, green & black....

marcb
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 03:39 PM UTC
Tamiya primer works great on Shapeway parts.
WarrenD
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 05:36 PM UTC
I had the best experience with Mr. Hobby Resin Primer but it has been discontinued.
I found that the wax on the FUD and FED was best removed with a soak in Bestine. (Rubber cement solvent) If you start having problems with paint peeling, it's probably because there is still wax on the print.
27-1025
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 06:17 PM UTC
All, thanks for the input. I'd forgotten about Stynylrez which I also happen to have. Gonna try that tonite.
165thspc
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Posted: Monday, June 26, 2017 - 08:18 PM UTC
I prime all my Shapeways stuff with Tamiya grey primer and without doing the pre-cleanup you mentioned. I am now about 12 weeks in and have seen no problems after painting.

Your results may vary.
MikeyBugs95
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Posted: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 - 12:43 AM UTC
You should be putting your parts under bright sunlight or a UV cure lamp for a few hours and then wash them like you would any resin parts. There may be some leftover wax or small amounts of uncured resin that could eventually damage the overlaying paint.

About paint. I've been using Mr. Surfacer 1200 to prime most of the printed parts I buy. I've also used the Tamiya rattle-can surface primer and liquid surface primer. They both worked pretty well.
27-1025
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Posted: Tuesday, June 27, 2017 - 03:08 AM UTC
Thanks for the advise. Used rattle can Tamiya primer on my periscope guards, came out great. Getting ready to shoot Stynlrez on the next set.
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