Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Future and decals
Namerifrats
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 05:11 PM UTC
After a little research I figured out what you guys call future. Haven't picked it up in the store yet, but know to get the Pledge Floor Tile with future shine. Purple looking label. Never used it before. Do you spray or brush this on? Also, since its used mostly for better decal adhesion, do you just put it where decals will go or it it better to coat the entire model? Wasn't planning on putting in all around the suspension or on the wheels. Any use it doing that?
alewar
Joined: December 27, 2006
KitMaker: 773 posts
Armorama: 765 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 05:56 PM UTC
Hi, I use our local version of Future, called here Blem,isn't too shine as Pledge, but works to me. I apply it with brush where the decals goes. I Usually more than 2 or 3 coats, maybe isn't Pledge. I put the decals in water as usually, but when I ready to peel off the decal of the back paper, I apply more wax over it. At the same time apply too on the area,over the model. When still wet, apply the decal. Use a round #6 brush to roll over and take off the wax excess. Sometimes the decals have wrinkles but you can use the brush to plain it if necessary. I never use gloss varnish again.
HTH
Regards from the south
Álvaro
HTH
Regards from the south
Álvaro
amoz02t
#192
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 1,383 posts
Armorama: 1,281 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 05:57 PM UTC
I have done both brush and spray of Future in the past. Please do a test area on clear plastic to assure that it is truly clear acrylic as the formula may have changed since I last bought mine.
I dip clear canopies in Future, use it between coats of enamel paints,use it before and after decals to smooth the decal edge step, use future for window glue, use it to glue on photo etch parts, use it to thin other acrylics for weathering effects, use Future on paper products to harden them for painting, use Future to smooth out 3D printing surfaces...goes on and on lol Clean up with Windex and rubbing alcohol. Keep the room humidity under 40% to avoid a cloudy appearance when spraying with an airbrush.
Future is always on my table in little cups as it is so useful for a clear, hard finish that does not damage paint, plastic, or decals.
I dip clear canopies in Future, use it between coats of enamel paints,use it before and after decals to smooth the decal edge step, use future for window glue, use it to glue on photo etch parts, use it to thin other acrylics for weathering effects, use Future on paper products to harden them for painting, use Future to smooth out 3D printing surfaces...goes on and on lol Clean up with Windex and rubbing alcohol. Keep the room humidity under 40% to avoid a cloudy appearance when spraying with an airbrush.
Future is always on my table in little cups as it is so useful for a clear, hard finish that does not damage paint, plastic, or decals.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 06:30 PM UTC
I apply it both ways: brush a small area only where decals will go, and spray the entire model. The former is usually just because I'm feeling lazy. The latter is good because it gives you a rock-hard seal over the base coat, which will resist damage during weathering.
roteck
Joined: January 12, 2004
KitMaker: 274 posts
Armorama: 159 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 07:09 PM UTC
I will wxho what has been said before, spray through airbrush fine (not diluted) and for clean up, get some window cleaner (as long as it contains amonia, it will work), works great. I also brush it on locally over the decals after they have been applied (I hate cleaning my airbrush) to seal them properly.
ericadeane
Joined: October 28, 2002
KitMaker: 4,021 posts
Armorama: 3,947 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 07:11 PM UTC
If you only apply to the area of the eventual decal and depending on the overcoat color, it will darken the area because the Future fills in the matt surface, causing less light reflection -- which is what eliminates the silvering. If you follow on with weathering to blend it in, that's fine. For aircraft, I apply Future over the whole thing. For armor I spray a patch, apply the decals and then blend in the darkened area with weathering
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 07:40 PM UTC
Quoted Text
If you only apply to the area of the eventual decal and depending on the overcoat color, it will darken the area because the Future fills in the matt surface, causing less light reflection -- which is what eliminates the silvering....
Second that. It's also difficult to get a uniform matte finish when only decal places have been Futured because of the difference in surface texture. Always best to airbrush Future all over.
urumomo
Joined: August 22, 2013
KitMaker: 675 posts
Armorama: 667 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 08:39 PM UTC
Agree with all above ,, esp Gillespie .
BTW , it's the easiest stuff to spray and clean out of an AB
This is the one you need :
.... in the States ,
If a different label , here's the contents :
( easy to whip up a batch at the house , lol )
I did an entire build ( scifi ) using only Future tinted with inks and dyes ,
Really versatile product .
... I wish there was a fragrance-free version ..
BTW , it's the easiest stuff to spray and clean out of an AB
This is the one you need :
.... in the States ,
If a different label , here's the contents :
( easy to whip up a batch at the house , lol )
I did an entire build ( scifi ) using only Future tinted with inks and dyes ,
Really versatile product .
... I wish there was a fragrance-free version ..
jps
Joined: February 06, 2006
KitMaker: 147 posts
Armorama: 140 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 08:59 PM UTC
[quote]Please do a test area on clear plastic to assure that it is truly clear acrylic as the formula may have changed since I last bought mine.
I work for SC Johnson although I make Raid and Off as opposed to floor care. Future has been basically unchanged through the last several years. When the "Pledge" product came out I checked with the folks that actually mix the batches and found there was no formula change. I would recomeend testing before using any new product on your models (even if it is made for models!).
I work for SC Johnson although I make Raid and Off as opposed to floor care. Future has been basically unchanged through the last several years. When the "Pledge" product came out I checked with the folks that actually mix the batches and found there was no formula change. I would recomeend testing before using any new product on your models (even if it is made for models!).
parrot
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 10:26 PM UTC
I just apply in the area the decal is going.
Try to keep it the size of the decal.Being lazy I guess.
Works fine 99% of the time.
Biggles is probably right.I'm just worried about it not working.Going to try the complete spray on a cheap kit.
Tom
Try to keep it the size of the decal.Being lazy I guess.
Works fine 99% of the time.
Biggles is probably right.I'm just worried about it not working.Going to try the complete spray on a cheap kit.
Tom
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 08, 2017 - 10:48 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextIf you only apply to the area of the eventual decal and depending on the overcoat color, it will darken the area because the Future fills in the matt surface, causing less light reflection -- which is what eliminates the silvering....
Second that. It's also difficult to get a uniform matte finish when only decal places have been Futured because of the difference in surface texture. Always best to airbrush Future all over.
Actually, I have a technique to combat that: Once the decal has completely set (using any decal fixing agent you like) use a cotton swab dipped in ammonia to gently wipe away any future that is on surrounding surface. Ammonia will easily remove even dried Future, but the decal film prevents the ammonia from attacking the future underneath.
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 04:14 AM UTC
Ammonia won't remove acrylic paint, especially Tamiya?? Windex dissolves Tamiya paint in seconds, and Windex contains ammonia.
Namerifrats
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 07:19 AM UTC
Good info from everybody. Found it in the 3rd store I went to and bought 2 bottles. See several mention Windex. I've read amonia can potentially damage airbrush finishes/seals.
Namabiiru
Associate Editor#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 04:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ammonia won't remove acrylic paint, especially Tamiya?? Windex dissolves Tamiya paint in seconds, and Windex contains ammonia.
It's never been an issue for me, but I use mostly Vallejo and some AK. I know that Tamiya reacts differently to some solvents than the other brands so as has been pointed out, test first. In any event, be sparing with the ammonia (just dampen the cotton swab) and be very gentle.
parrot
Joined: March 01, 2002
KitMaker: 1,607 posts
Armorama: 1,581 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 09, 2017 - 10:45 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Ammonia won't remove acrylic paint, especially Tamiya?? Windex dissolves Tamiya paint in seconds, and Windex contains ammonia.
Windex will dissolve the paint.if you want to repaint a vehicle,spray on Windex,let sit a bit and there goes the paint.Not a good idea with at least Tamiya.
Tom
amoz02t
#192
Joined: November 25, 2009
KitMaker: 1,383 posts
Armorama: 1,281 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 - 08:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Good info from everybody. Found it in the 3rd store I went to and bought 2 bottles. See several mention Windex. I've read amonia can potentially damage airbrush finishes/seals.
I had heard rumors of that as well, that Windex was not good long term for the airbrush due to the ammonia. I spray the rubbing alcohol after the Windex to clear out the airbrush. The rubbing alcohol is fairly cheap and will evaporate leaving less water in the airbrush. Good luck
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,742 posts
Armorama: 1,658 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 12:05 AM UTC
Future (Pledge) provides a smooth surface for the decal to set on. A flat surface leaves air under the decal and it "silvers". Paint the vehicle. Spray the area with future, let dry. Apply the decals and let dry. Spray a second future coat over the vehicle to seal them in and let dry. Now get some matt (flat) clear paint and spray the entire vehicle to provide a uniform flat surface. Now you can weather the vehicle and the decals will look great.
Garrand
Joined: October 27, 2009
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 194 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 12:41 AM UTC
I use Future too. Lately I have been having trouble finding it in the US. Where are people getting their bottles? My current one is only half full!
Damon.
Damon.
urumomo
Joined: August 22, 2013
KitMaker: 675 posts
Armorama: 667 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 01:00 AM UTC
local grocery ( HEB ) , like 5-6 bucks
Gotrek58
Joined: January 11, 2009
KitMaker: 673 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 - 01:16 AM UTC
I mix Future/Pledge/Klear with Tamiya X-21 for a last coat over the applied decals to get a flat surface. It works great! Little X-21 for a semi-gloss, more for a flat finnish.
1. Tamiya acrylic paint
2. Future pure
3. decal
4. mixed Future (with X-21)
Future is also a very good ground under Archer decal rivets on kits plastic
1. Future on unpainted model
2. Archer rivets / welding seams
3. Future to fix the decals
4. paint
Future is so thin, that it is unvisible when painted by brush!
Michael
1. Tamiya acrylic paint
2. Future pure
3. decal
4. mixed Future (with X-21)
Future is also a very good ground under Archer decal rivets on kits plastic
1. Future on unpainted model
2. Archer rivets / welding seams
3. Future to fix the decals
4. paint
Future is so thin, that it is unvisible when painted by brush!
Michael
Namerifrats
Joined: May 26, 2014
KitMaker: 75 posts
Armorama: 60 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 04:20 AM UTC
Finally found some time to coat my model with Future, first use of it. I tested a bit prior to shooting the model. Laid on a couple thin coats, straight from the bottle through my secondary airbrush. Shot it at 15 lbs. Came out smooth and glossy. Just checked it after a couple hours, no complaints on how it went on. Whats the normal wait time prior to decals? Day or two? Will likely be that long before I have enough time anyway. So what about a matte coat after decals? What do you use? If it used after weathering as a final coat?
tatbaqui
News Writer
#040
Joined: May 06, 2007
KitMaker: 2,713 posts
Armorama: 2,451 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 06:11 AM UTC
You may use Tamiya X-21 Flat Base with Future. A 50-50 mix should give you a matte coat. Increasing the X-21 ratio gives a finish that is more flat. Make sure it is well mixed.
TFrancoM5A1
Joined: February 06, 2011
KitMaker: 9 posts
Armorama: 8 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 06:44 AM UTC
The last time I bought some was from Wal Mart. I couldn't find any at any of the stores I go to.
https://tinyurl.com/ybwqdlj5
https://tinyurl.com/ybwqdlj5
Headhunter506
Joined: December 01, 2007
KitMaker: 1,575 posts
Armorama: 1,509 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 07:30 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Whats the normal wait time prior to decals? Day or two? Will likely be that long before I have enough time anyway.
Ten to fifteen minutes since it's a super thin coat. BTW, you could have just as well brushed it only on the areas where decal(s) are to be applied and spray a flat coat over the entire model after the decals dry.
SSGToms
Joined: April 02, 2005
KitMaker: 3,608 posts
Armorama: 3,092 posts
Posted: Thursday, July 13, 2017 - 09:05 AM UTC
You can buy it at Wal-Mart.
I shoot a couple of coats over the whole model, let it dry overnight, then decals, then a couple more coats to seal in the decal edges and make them disappear. Then a flat coat of Future and Tamiya flat base mix. Then the washes and weathering begin.
I shoot a couple of coats over the whole model, let it dry overnight, then decals, then a couple more coats to seal in the decal edges and make them disappear. Then a flat coat of Future and Tamiya flat base mix. Then the washes and weathering begin.
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