I was asked to build a 3d printed slot car body. The directions brag that the lexan windows are laser cut to the exact size of the windows. The problem is that they are true to their word. The window fits exactly inside the window frame with NO overlap for a surface to glue on. How can I install the lexan without glue showing around the edges? I thought about putting clear tape inside and just pressing the lexan to it as a last resort.
Inquiring minds want to know !
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Need help with lexan windows.
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 03:51 AM UTC
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 07:57 PM UTC
If there's any actual contact (or friction) between the windows and the frames, you could use Micro Crystal Clear to glue the windows. Micro Crystal Clear is not solvent based so won't affect the clarity of the parts. And Micro Crystal Clear dries perfectly clear - model car builders use it.
majjanelson
Joined: December 14, 2006
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 08:20 PM UTC
If Biggle2's suggestion doesn't work, you could try adding small strips of thin plastic or PE fret around the window edge, both on the inside and the outside, like some Stock Cars have (image from a google search).
Of course, I don't know what the slot car body is, so this might not be appropriate.
Of course, I don't know what the slot car body is, so this might not be appropriate.
11Bravo_C2
Joined: May 12, 2015
KitMaker: 475 posts
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Posted: Thursday, July 20, 2017 - 10:43 PM UTC
Greg. A lot of us here are visual people, a pic would help a lot.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
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Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 02:56 AM UTC
Shot in the dark here but what about clear silicon calking material or something similar?
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 08:04 PM UTC
Thanks for the suggestions! Ivan think of cutting a 2 foot square hole from the center of a sheet of ply wood and then trying to glue the square back in. The lexan window is the exact size of the opening and fits in the opening so only the edge of the lexan touches. How can you glue it in so that it is not an ugly mess.
The car is a Koenigsegg CCX. The lexan is flat and the windows are curved.
The car is a Koenigsegg CCX. The lexan is flat and the windows are curved.
urumomo
Joined: August 22, 2013
KitMaker: 675 posts
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Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 08:14 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Thanks for the suggestions! Ivan think of cutting a 2 foot square hole from the center of a sheet of ply wood and then trying to glue the square back in. The lexan window is the exact size of the opening and fits in the opening so only the edge of the lexan touches. How can you glue it in so that it is not an ugly mess.
The car is a Koenigsegg CCX. The lexan is flat and the windows are curved.
Kinda - sorta ,, since you'd lose the material from the kerf of the cut so there would be a gap in the plywood example .
What do you mean the windows are curved and the Lexan is flat ?
I thought the Lexan WAS the window .
How thick is the Lexan ?
I'd try a PVA , or other acrylic medium .
If it doesn't work out it's easily removed with no damages .
.. maybe hold the Lexan in place and brush-apply Future into the joint via capillary action .More than once .
11Bravo_C2
Joined: May 12, 2015
KitMaker: 475 posts
Armorama: 394 posts
Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 10:41 PM UTC
Greg. I got you know. I've not used this method, but i've read on a scale model car site or model railroad site, that some guys use a goop made from Future.
Pour Future in a small jar with lid. Leave the lid open for a few days to let the Future out-gas, evaporate or dry. Over a few days the Future becomes a gooey substance that can then be used to fix plastic windshields, windows, etc...
Pour Future in a small jar with lid. Leave the lid open for a few days to let the Future out-gas, evaporate or dry. Over a few days the Future becomes a gooey substance that can then be used to fix plastic windshields, windows, etc...
urumomo
Joined: August 22, 2013
KitMaker: 675 posts
Armorama: 667 posts
Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 11:00 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Greg. I got you know. I've not used this method, but i've read on a scale model car site or model railroad site, that some guys use a goop made from Future.
Pour Future in a small jar with lid. Leave the lid open for a few days to let the Future out-gas, evaporate or dry. Over a few days the Future becomes a gooey substance that can then be used to fix plastic windshields, windows, etc...
WHAT ?
Oh I must see this -- where did you read this ?
11Bravo_C2
Joined: May 12, 2015
KitMaker: 475 posts
Armorama: 394 posts
Posted: Friday, July 21, 2017 - 11:49 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextGreg. I got you know. I've not used this method, but i've read on a scale model car site or model railroad site, that some guys use a goop made from Future.
Pour Future in a small jar with lid. Leave the lid open for a few days to let the Future out-gas, evaporate or dry. Over a few days the Future becomes a gooey substance that can then be used to fix plastic windshields, windows, etc...
WHAT ?
Oh I must see this -- where did you read this ?
Keith,
I don't recall what site I read this before, but Andy X (youtube name) talks about it here @ 9:35 min:
Testors also makes a Clear Parts Cement, which in my opinion it's a form of acrylic varnish.
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,742 posts
Armorama: 1,658 posts
Posted: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 - 09:10 PM UTC
I tried the different techniques suggested and worked on my skill/ luck factor and what works best is to paint in the pieces with future that will fit in the window frames without needing to be bent. For the front windshield I glued the lexan to the A pillor on one side and let it dry. I began to curve the windshield around and painted future on part and let it dry over night. Bent it some more, painted more until the windshield was done. At first I tried to just glue in both A pillors but as the glue dried the window would lift off the dash area so I had do do it in sections at a time instead. Multiple days and a PIA but it looks OK. Thanks for the advice!
Biggles2
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 - 04:14 AM UTC
As slot cars tend to flying off the track at high speeds and hit floors or walls, it might be advisable to glue the windows in with a much stronger glue than Micro Crystal Clear, or thickened Future.
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,742 posts
Armorama: 1,658 posts
Posted: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 - 07:56 PM UTC
I am building it for a someone who wants to display it to show what it would look like completed as part of a sales display. He has raced slots for decades and will know it is not in race trim. Most manufacturers of slot cars design the bodies to be glued from the inside and many racers use shoe goo or something similar to reinforce the parts from the underside. Not this brand.
All in all I have developed a skill that was lacking. If you need to install some clear parts the future method was quite successful for those pieces where glue would be a problem, especially smaller pieces. The final product looked better than the clear parts glue. The future wasn't as thick looking when done.
All in all I have developed a skill that was lacking. If you need to install some clear parts the future method was quite successful for those pieces where glue would be a problem, especially smaller pieces. The final product looked better than the clear parts glue. The future wasn't as thick looking when done.
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