Never used them before. Should/Can they be painted, and if yes, what kind of paint (acrylic/enamel)?
TIA
Israel
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
Vinyl Tires-Painting/Weathering Advice Needed
ReluctantRenegade
Joined: March 09, 2016
KitMaker: 2,408 posts
Armorama: 2,300 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 01:02 PM UTC
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 02:22 PM UTC
I haven't painted them,just weathered them with pigments
Whiskey_1
Joined: November 22, 2008
KitMaker: 279 posts
Armorama: 272 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 06, 2017 - 02:49 PM UTC
That depends a bit on the kit and tires. Back in the day (early 90's) they had a reputation for poor paint adherence. It's a bit better nowadays, especially with higher quality materials used and the huge diversity of primers available. Getting the molding seams off properly is also a bit of a chore in some cases. Still, with some fine sanding, and a bit of primer they can be painted, which I would recommend as tires in real life are considerably more matt in appearnce.
27-1025
Joined: September 16, 2004
KitMaker: 1,281 posts
Armorama: 1,222 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 01:37 AM UTC
having the same issues with my Merit Diamond truck and trailer combo. Just ordered and am going to try the new Mission Models paints and primer. They put out a video showing soft rubber tires after being painted with primer and then with black paint and it appears to be a pretty sturdy finish. Going to sample their OD paints as well.
cabasner
Joined: February 12, 2012
KitMaker: 1,083 posts
Armorama: 1,014 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 02:09 AM UTC
Israel, what kind of tires/which kit? Are you talking about big tires like Anthony's post, or smaller rubber such as on the AFV Club Centurions? I suppose it really doesn't matter as far as painting goes. I've been working on the 2 AFV Club IDF Shot Centurions that I have, and the vinyl parts represent part of the steel wheel as well as the tire part. I have been able to very easily and successfully spray Tamiya paints with my airbrush onto those vinyl parts, and then hand paint the black tire areas with Tamiya. To simulate the terrible damage done to rubber tires on the rocky Golan, I found that cutting and carefully tearing the vinyl tires rsults in reasonably realistic looking chunks out the 'tires'. You do need to be really careful, and start each ' chunk' with a cut from a hobby knife, then gently tear pieces out by hand. Just don't let the tear get into the 'wheel' part of the vinyl. I'll send pictures if you like.
But back to your question, I've had no problem using Tamiya paint on them.
But back to your question, I've had no problem using Tamiya paint on them.
JohnTapsell
Joined: August 24, 2011
KitMaker: 227 posts
Armorama: 226 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 02:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Never used them before. Should/Can they be painted, and if yes, what kind of paint (acrylic/enamel)?
TIA
Israel
I don't tend to paint them. Unstead I use some fine emery paper and gently sand the tyres to remove any shine. It also lightens the colour.
Some makes respond better to this than others but I've never had any problems with the technique itself.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 03:00 AM UTC
I have heard other modelers recently complaining that paints still do not stick to the rubber tires.
I use pigments and pastels and have no problems other than sometimes the pastels get rubbed off but that is an easy fix with another application of pigment.
If still insisting on using paint, try rubbing the tires with a bit of automotive lacquer thinner to "craze" the rubber a bit for better adhesion.
I use pigments and pastels and have no problems other than sometimes the pastels get rubbed off but that is an easy fix with another application of pigment.
If still insisting on using paint, try rubbing the tires with a bit of automotive lacquer thinner to "craze" the rubber a bit for better adhesion.
frank01
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 195 posts
Armorama: 175 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 03:38 AM UTC
I wire brush them first then paintbrush or put pigments on them.
Dioramartin
Joined: May 04, 2016
KitMaker: 1,476 posts
Armorama: 1,463 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 08:57 AM UTC
Honestly I'd run away & find replacements for vinyl tires at all costs. Assuming nothing has changed - and I don't think vinyl has changed - after about 10 or 12 years you'll find the vinyl has melted onto the plastic hubs forming a kind-of goo..which melts the hubs as though you'd poured cement onto them - it's the acid in the vinyl. I speak from experience 
JohnTapsell
Joined: August 24, 2011
KitMaker: 227 posts
Armorama: 226 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 05:11 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Honestly I'd run away & find replacements for vinyl tires at all costs. Assuming nothing has changed - and I don't think vinyl has changed - after about 10 or 12 years you'll find the vinyl has melted onto the plastic hubs forming a kind-of goo..which melts the hubs as though you'd poured cement onto them - it's the acid in the vinyl. I speak from experience
In 40 years of modelling, I don't recall ever having problems with vinyl tyres melting. I think I had one or two sets split some years after I built the relevant kits (a Tamiya LRDG Chevy springs to mind - and a Dragon BRDM-2) but I can't say I've ever had major problems with them.
Depending on the project I'll use vinyl tyres or aftermarket options, but it's about tread accuracy and quality rather than concerns about the material.
John
WarWheels
Joined: March 24, 2006
KitMaker: 1,816 posts
Armorama: 1,402 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 05:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I don't tend to paint them. Unstead I use some fine emery paper and gently sand the tyres to remove any shine. It also lightens the colour.
Some makes respond better to this than others but I've never had any problems with the technique itself.
I use a similar technique to John's, the difference being I use steel wool. But, it's the same concept: lightening the color and shine of the vinyl, rather than covering them with paint or pigments.
bill_c
Campaigns AdministratorJoined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 07:03 PM UTC
Resin tires. Period.
ReluctantRenegade
Joined: March 09, 2016
KitMaker: 2,408 posts
Armorama: 2,300 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 09:20 PM UTC
Guys, thanks a lot, great contribution by all of you!
Resin tires - while they might be the most accurate representation of the real thing -are not an option, as I build (almost) exclusively OOB. I conclude the best thing to do is to gently sand and weather them with pigments.
Curt, I was referring to Takom's 1/35 AML-90, however thanks for drawing my attention to the vinyl parts of AFV Club's Sh'ot, as I'm building this kit simultaneously. I did not pay attention that the vinyl parts are actually representing part of the steel wheel as well! You're right about the damage to these rubber rings, I recall huge chunks of it (sometimes 20-30cm) were completely missing.
Resin tires - while they might be the most accurate representation of the real thing -are not an option, as I build (almost) exclusively OOB. I conclude the best thing to do is to gently sand and weather them with pigments.
Curt, I was referring to Takom's 1/35 AML-90, however thanks for drawing my attention to the vinyl parts of AFV Club's Sh'ot, as I'm building this kit simultaneously. I did not pay attention that the vinyl parts are actually representing part of the steel wheel as well! You're right about the damage to these rubber rings, I recall huge chunks of it (sometimes 20-30cm) were completely missing.
vettejack
Joined: November 23, 2012
KitMaker: 1,277 posts
Armorama: 1,254 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 09:24 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Resin tires. Period.
Ditto! Wait for resin...it usually shows up eventually for whatever u r building.
Mrclark7
Joined: June 04, 2017
KitMaker: 503 posts
Armorama: 477 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 08, 2017 - 10:39 PM UTC
I like how my wash and pigments look came out for me on my B1.
bill_c
Campaigns AdministratorJoined: January 09, 2008
KitMaker: 10,553 posts
Armorama: 8,109 posts
Posted: Wednesday, August 09, 2017 - 10:37 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Resin tires - while they might be the most accurate representation of the real thing -are not an option, as I build (almost) exclusively OOB.
Most resin wheels will fit right on your OOB build, you're just saving yourself heartache and BS by ditching the vinyl. No matter what you do to "prep" the surface, the vinyl may simply implode at some point down the line.
Mrclark7
Joined: June 04, 2017
KitMaker: 503 posts
Armorama: 477 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 12:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextResin tires - while they might be the most accurate representation of the real thing -are not an option, as I build (almost) exclusively OOB.
Most resin wheels will fit right on your OOB build, you're just saving yourself heartache and BS by ditching the vinyl. No matter what you do to "prep" the surface, the vinyl may simply implode at some point down the line.
Bill , being new coming back into the hobby, could you explain further this pitfall? Is there a failing of materials possibly in the future because of washes used on the tire?
Dioramartin
Joined: May 04, 2016
KitMaker: 1,476 posts
Armorama: 1,463 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 05:06 PM UTC
Assuming Bill’s referring to the same phenomenon (delayed implosion) that I reported earlier in this thread, maybe a chemist could help. I’m guessing chloride’s a component of vinyl – or to be specific, of the vinyl tires on an Italeri Opel Blitz bought/made in the late 90’s. I painted the plastic hubs with (probably) a Humbrol Steel enamel(didn’t use any cement, unnecessary) & between those three materials something slowly reacted and “melted” the plastic hubs (and to a lesser extent the vinyl where in contact with them) when I next looked at it around 2012. The Blitz had been in a continuously cool dry concrete garage with no windows for all those years.
Somewhere on one of the forums here a year or so ago I noticed a couple of other modelers had reported similar – whereas others report none...go figure, beats me.
Tim
Somewhere on one of the forums here a year or so ago I noticed a couple of other modelers had reported similar – whereas others report none...go figure, beats me.
Tim
Tojo72
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
Armorama: 3,509 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 05:43 PM UTC
So far,my Stryker is just over 4 years old,no melting problems yet.
Mrclark7
Joined: June 04, 2017
KitMaker: 503 posts
Armorama: 477 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 10, 2017 - 09:43 PM UTC
Thank you for explaining that. I will look into this further. I have built a b1 a few months back and will keep an eye curiously on it. Also seeing that I have a few MRAPS I have been eyeballing it's good to know. Thanks.
165thspc
#521
Joined: April 13, 2011
KitMaker: 9,465 posts
Armorama: 8,695 posts
Posted: Friday, August 11, 2017 - 01:00 AM UTC
I have way too many of the old Italeri Blitz truck models, most are probably 15+ years old, with no sign of the OOB vinyl tires or the wheels softening or melting.
No glue was used on the tires (no need) and no paint. I always weather using pastels and the models are displayed on an open book shelf in my living room with little or no direct sunlight exposure.
Just reporting my results.
p.s. Sunlight can affect real tires, perhaps there is a connection there.
No glue was used on the tires (no need) and no paint. I always weather using pastels and the models are displayed on an open book shelf in my living room with little or no direct sunlight exposure.
Just reporting my results.
p.s. Sunlight can affect real tires, perhaps there is a connection there.
 |
WEB HOSTING BY
Copyright ©2021 Armorama and Kitmaker Network, a subsidiary of Silver Star Enterprises
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.
All Rights Reserved. Please read our Conditions of Use and Privacy Policy.