I do a lot of kit bashing and scratch building but every now and then I will build something OOTB just to relax. I will go for the AM when it gives me a complex component that I feel I cannot do justice to by scratching it. I will also go for the AM stuff to get the fine screen wire grills, etc.
If the kit does not come with individual track links I will spring for the better track but always the cheaper plastic sets. (I only ever bought one set of Fulei tracks in my life.)
I will second a lot of the comments made by Robin Nilsson above with the exception of the "Museum" painting - I've seen too much of that in real life.
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How many are building OOTB?
Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 09:17 PM UTC
RobinNilsson
TOS Moderator
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 09:34 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I do a lot of kit bashing and scratch building but every now and then I will build something OOTB just to relax. I will go for the AM when it gives me a complex component that I feel I cannot do justice to by scratching it. I will also go for the AM stuff to get the fine screen wire grills, etc.
If the kit does not come with individual track links I will spring for the better track but always the cheaper plastic sets. (I only ever bought one set of Fulei tracks in my life.)
I will second a lot of the comments made by Robert Nilsson above with the exception of the "Museum" painting - I've seen too much of that in real life.
The name is Robin (not Robert)
I agree to your view/opinions about museum painting.
I have considered it since camouflage and weathering looks, at least to my eyes, very "untidy" and chaotic when there is over 200 models tightly parked together in a glass cabinet (think marine prepositioning ships). Hopefully there will be more built models in the future (more spare time when the kids get a little bit older ....)
Robin
TankCarl
Rhode Island, United States
Joined: May 10, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 09:39 PM UTC
As a rule, I strive for OOTB. If I know the vehicle from seeing one in person, I add aftermarket or scratch necessary details (my 1/6th M4A3 for instance).I do not measure hull widths / slopes,if the model looks like photographs online,I am satisfied. If aftermarket resin or PE would make a model look visibly better,I doo not mind buying it, and taking the time to use it.There is a learning curve to PE and resin, but it is part of my process.
Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 10:08 PM UTC
Sorry about the name foul up Robin - In truth I was focusing on not misspelling your last name. (Which I did in my first writing.) The spelling of your name is new to me as it is the first time I have ever encountered it. Many apologies.
TopSmith
Washington, United States
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 10:51 PM UTC
I don't build that many kits a year and I have a collection of about 50 kits to be done. I collect AM track and metal barrels for most of them. I will get some PE if the kit needs it but I have never used all the PE. Often the 3D of the plastic part is more realistic than the flat PE. I will scratch build simple items if the kit did it poorly or is missing it. I know my skill level and work to that point. I don't do the tissue and glue for the mantlet so AM is required. Painting sections and assembling works for me. I panic at the thought of building the entire kit then painting. Weathering is old school with me. I haven't tried filters and oil paints yet.
Curt my suggestion is choose a simple kit like a Tamiya panther A or T 34 and use it for a practice weathering kit. If you use acrylics you can use windex or something else and just remove the paint when done and start again. The confidence is in knowing you intend to remove the paint so if the effect is not what you want, so what no harm done.
Curt my suggestion is choose a simple kit like a Tamiya panther A or T 34 and use it for a practice weathering kit. If you use acrylics you can use windex or something else and just remove the paint when done and start again. The confidence is in knowing you intend to remove the paint so if the effect is not what you want, so what no harm done.
RobinNilsson
TOS Moderator
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Sorry about the name foul up Robin - In truth I was focusing on not misspelling your last name. (Which I did in my first writing.) The spelling of your name is new to me as it is the first time I have ever encountered it. Many apologies.
No worries mate !
;)
americanpanzer
Iowa, United States
Joined: May 12, 2014
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Posted: Saturday, September 02, 2017 - 11:13 PM UTC
I'm an OOTB builder with a little scratchbuilding here & there; I have a few AM items but not much due to budget limits. I'd say 98% of what I do is OOTB and I get good results;
Armorsmith
Pennsylvania, United States
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 01:08 AM UTC
I need to understand that I'm doing this for myself. Would I like to be able to get appreciative nods from you all when I post pictures of my latest tank? Sure....but that shouldn't be what it's all about...should it?
I went through a similar "crisis" quite a few years back when I first started to go to shows and compete. For quite sometime afterward I found that nothing I built was good enough and I fretted over every detail while I was building. Modeling was no longer fun but a struggle. It suddenly hit me that subconsciously I was building with an eye to competition and was worried about what the judges would think. I then made the very deliberate decision that hence forth I would build only for myself and competition and judges be damned. Modeling became fun and enjoyable for me again and much less stressful. I have not given up competition but I no longer worry or care about whether my builds are contest worthy. I go, put my stuff on the table, talk to fellow modelers and have a great time. When I win an award it's a bonus and if I don't then so what?
I went through a similar "crisis" quite a few years back when I first started to go to shows and compete. For quite sometime afterward I found that nothing I built was good enough and I fretted over every detail while I was building. Modeling was no longer fun but a struggle. It suddenly hit me that subconsciously I was building with an eye to competition and was worried about what the judges would think. I then made the very deliberate decision that hence forth I would build only for myself and competition and judges be damned. Modeling became fun and enjoyable for me again and much less stressful. I have not given up competition but I no longer worry or care about whether my builds are contest worthy. I go, put my stuff on the table, talk to fellow modelers and have a great time. When I win an award it's a bonus and if I don't then so what?
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 01:08 AM UTC
When the Sd.Kfz. 9 (the Famo) first came out I was so much in love with it that I bought every different set of PE for it that I could find. Got so overloaded on the project that it still sits on my shelf about 65% finished after how many years? Twenty-three, twenty-six???
Who knows it might be the next project to move to the front of the line. Hey, it could happen!
Who knows it might be the next project to move to the front of the line. Hey, it could happen!
rfbaer
Texas, United States
Joined: June 12, 2007
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 01:57 AM UTC
I haven't built anything strictly OOB in years, but I don't always use AM parts either. I'm a big fan of Friul or other metal indies, and will even select a model to build out of my normal "range" if Friuls are available for it, like the three Tiger 2's I've done. I also do lots of kit bashing, and have done several IDF "what-ifs", which means lots of parts kit mixing up. The closest I've come to OOB lately is the IS-2 I did earlier this year with no AM except a set of SpadeAce tracks, or the HobbyBoss Merkava 3D I'm almost done with, once again using only a set of Friuls as my only AM additions, with lots of small bits from a Meng Merk3. I do however have an Orochi Bradley in the stash that will be totally OOB, I think.....
I like doing the old Tamiya kits too, which means lots of Evergreen and scrap PE bits, and generally some AM tracks.
I like doing the old Tamiya kits too, which means lots of Evergreen and scrap PE bits, and generally some AM tracks.
cabasner
Nevada, United States
Joined: February 12, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 02:24 AM UTC
I am so very appreciative to all of you who have posted on this thread. Many, many thanks.
I can give you a sense of where I am at today. I'm back working on a Dragon King Tiger, Henschel turret, with Zimmerit. The photo etch that I really wanted to use were the front and rear fenders (mudflaps), and the side guards (or fenders). I just recently got a microtorch for soldering some of these bigger pieces, and while I have been somewhat successful at this, I've learned that soldering PE is its own little niche technique. I did use it on the ribs for the mudguards, though. So, the fenders were the key components that I really felt were needed, though the kit parts are done really quite well, if you want to portray perfectly intact items. In my case, I plan to have at least one of the side guards shown missing, and for this, the PE is ideal. As I'd mentioned before, I just finished the commander cupola MG holder, which is nice in PE, as it is really way out of scale in plastic (too thick). The parts I always have huge problems with are the latches that hold the tools on the tank, and because I am so dreading that, I guess I'll do without them. I had also intended to use the PE holders for the jack, but I have already decided to go with the plastic version of those. I ended up putting some of the PE doodads on the turret top and the top of the rear of the hull. I have been wondering if I should use PE for the headlight, but I'm thinking that will be too much work. And, I've also, partly as a result of this thread, given up on doing the PE parts for the tow cable ends. Between those cable ends and the tool latches, I would be at this for weeks on end, since I am so very slow at doing these PE parts. And they are the most frustrating.
One of the many tanks that are 'on hold' is the Dragon 6600, Initial Tiger I. I had had great plans for this tank, but I've already messed it up, and it makes me want to just give up on this build. I've screwed up a lot of the build, and I've just gotten started. I was working on PE mudguards for the rear, and since I was just starting out with soldering, I ended up burning the edge away of one of the guards. I've also replaced a plastic piece that comes through the mount of one of the rear mudguards, and it is now cocked at an odd angle, and lastly, the support 'angle iron' to hold the jack consists of two PE pieces, which I've really messed up in putting together. These mistakes are enough to make me want to just scrap this tank, and get another 6600 kit and start over. I know myself well, and know that even if I do finish that tank, I will always look at it and fret over the errors. What is particularly frustrating is that the second tank I ever built (since getting back into the hobby) was a Tiger I, with a lot of PE, that I managed to, perhaps with beginner's luck, complete with very few errors. I find myself being so sad that the more experience I get, the worse I seem to be doing. I'm sure Id be a great psychiatric case...maybe there is more to this than simply modeling issues?
While it may sound as if I have built a large number of tank models, the fact is that I've only actually fully completed 5 models. The Tiger I, a Tamiya Challenger 2, a Tasca Sherman, all of which are sort of on display, a Dragon M1A1 that never really got fully completed, and another Dragon M1A1 that ended up going to Ft. Stewart as part of the Thunder Run exhibit. The latter is probably the best work I've ever done, and I was honored that they even let me contribute, though there was very little PE on that tank, and the work I did was marginal at best, compared to most of the others who built models for that exhibit.
I almost always want to use aftermarket tracks. I am fortunate to be able to afford them, and I most use Fruil metal tracks for tanks where the tracks are mostly seen, like on German WWII tanks. Those are easy, though, and hard to mess up. Kit tracks for tanks without sag in their tracks are fine.
Maybe I can just try hard to live with OOTB. While I know I'd like the detail of PE, I'm sure I would be much happier with a tank that didn't have mistakes, such as if I were to start the Initial Tiger I 6600 over again.
Sorry for the additional rant...
I can give you a sense of where I am at today. I'm back working on a Dragon King Tiger, Henschel turret, with Zimmerit. The photo etch that I really wanted to use were the front and rear fenders (mudflaps), and the side guards (or fenders). I just recently got a microtorch for soldering some of these bigger pieces, and while I have been somewhat successful at this, I've learned that soldering PE is its own little niche technique. I did use it on the ribs for the mudguards, though. So, the fenders were the key components that I really felt were needed, though the kit parts are done really quite well, if you want to portray perfectly intact items. In my case, I plan to have at least one of the side guards shown missing, and for this, the PE is ideal. As I'd mentioned before, I just finished the commander cupola MG holder, which is nice in PE, as it is really way out of scale in plastic (too thick). The parts I always have huge problems with are the latches that hold the tools on the tank, and because I am so dreading that, I guess I'll do without them. I had also intended to use the PE holders for the jack, but I have already decided to go with the plastic version of those. I ended up putting some of the PE doodads on the turret top and the top of the rear of the hull. I have been wondering if I should use PE for the headlight, but I'm thinking that will be too much work. And, I've also, partly as a result of this thread, given up on doing the PE parts for the tow cable ends. Between those cable ends and the tool latches, I would be at this for weeks on end, since I am so very slow at doing these PE parts. And they are the most frustrating.
One of the many tanks that are 'on hold' is the Dragon 6600, Initial Tiger I. I had had great plans for this tank, but I've already messed it up, and it makes me want to just give up on this build. I've screwed up a lot of the build, and I've just gotten started. I was working on PE mudguards for the rear, and since I was just starting out with soldering, I ended up burning the edge away of one of the guards. I've also replaced a plastic piece that comes through the mount of one of the rear mudguards, and it is now cocked at an odd angle, and lastly, the support 'angle iron' to hold the jack consists of two PE pieces, which I've really messed up in putting together. These mistakes are enough to make me want to just scrap this tank, and get another 6600 kit and start over. I know myself well, and know that even if I do finish that tank, I will always look at it and fret over the errors. What is particularly frustrating is that the second tank I ever built (since getting back into the hobby) was a Tiger I, with a lot of PE, that I managed to, perhaps with beginner's luck, complete with very few errors. I find myself being so sad that the more experience I get, the worse I seem to be doing. I'm sure Id be a great psychiatric case...maybe there is more to this than simply modeling issues?
While it may sound as if I have built a large number of tank models, the fact is that I've only actually fully completed 5 models. The Tiger I, a Tamiya Challenger 2, a Tasca Sherman, all of which are sort of on display, a Dragon M1A1 that never really got fully completed, and another Dragon M1A1 that ended up going to Ft. Stewart as part of the Thunder Run exhibit. The latter is probably the best work I've ever done, and I was honored that they even let me contribute, though there was very little PE on that tank, and the work I did was marginal at best, compared to most of the others who built models for that exhibit.
I almost always want to use aftermarket tracks. I am fortunate to be able to afford them, and I most use Fruil metal tracks for tanks where the tracks are mostly seen, like on German WWII tanks. Those are easy, though, and hard to mess up. Kit tracks for tanks without sag in their tracks are fine.
Maybe I can just try hard to live with OOTB. While I know I'd like the detail of PE, I'm sure I would be much happier with a tank that didn't have mistakes, such as if I were to start the Initial Tiger I 6600 over again.
Sorry for the additional rant...
DutyFirst1917
Colorado, United States
Joined: February 03, 2016
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 03:08 AM UTC
I prefer OOTB as well and usually take advantage of my huge stash of left over parts if needed. I have done some light AM but that is usually to fix up what my constant moves break! I just can't spend that kind of money for something a company will make a kit for. Also, the skills developed to really make an OOTB model look great give a huge amount of satisfaction as opposed to buying your way into good models
Tim
Tim
Mrclark7
Texas, United States
Joined: June 04, 2017
KitMaker: 503 posts
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 03:36 AM UTC
OOTB for sure. I had no issues when I was younger doing builds. But I did not have access to the painting tools as I do now. So now I focus on learning different styles that I wasn't able to do younger. I have no desire to do a highly detailed kit if my painting ability cant match it. this is why I am building three different Abrams right now. All $25 each on amazon. The first one was actually done, didnt like it, and totally stripped it down to no paint and tried it again just to practice painting. I built a Gundam 1/100 earlier this year and stripped and repainted it 7 times. Just to keep trying different styles. I do have a build coming up using aftermarket tracks but thats because of the reviews of its tracks. So for me OOTB for sure. still dont know if I trust my airbrush not spitting on my build.
Would faint on a high PE build.
Would faint on a high PE build.
Mrclark7
Texas, United States
Joined: June 04, 2017
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 03:43 AM UTC
Curt- These mistakes are enough to make me want to just scrap this tank, and get another 6600 kit and start over.
Ha, a couple of days ago I was trying to do the decals on a 1/72 scale x-wing. The decals were horrible and made me do what needed to be done.
"HULK smash and make no more". And it felt gooood
Ha, a couple of days ago I was trying to do the decals on a 1/72 scale x-wing. The decals were horrible and made me do what needed to be done.
"HULK smash and make no more". And it felt gooood
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 04:45 AM UTC
I have always been a detail freak! ever since I started this hobby I had never built a kit OOTB untill I returned to the hobby a few years ago the first one was Dragons first kit as after finding out how inacurate it was I just did the best with what is in the kit. I don't shy away from PE as I am quite comfortable using it and I can get carried away with details still (see my Lav III build )
I am working on a Airfix P-40 OOTB right now just for a change of pace. If you don't like the results you get with PE the don't bother you can use the kit parts or thin sheet styrene.
Cheers Rob.
I am working on a Airfix P-40 OOTB right now just for a change of pace. If you don't like the results you get with PE the don't bother you can use the kit parts or thin sheet styrene.
Cheers Rob.
cabasner
Nevada, United States
Joined: February 12, 2012
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 04:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
..still dont know if I trust my airbrush not spitting on my build.
Would faint on a high PE build.
I am very much in touch with THAT feeling, sir! I have to agree that if I'm (trying to) build a super detailed model, have sort of gotten there, and then the following work is awful, or at least not close in level of 'goodness' to the build, that would be cause for serious disappointment! For those of us of marginal skill levels, I suppose this is a good argument for OOTB builds. That way, if the painting and weathering turns out to be not very good, then it won't feel as though I ruined the model. But if the inverse happens, that the painting and weathering is really good (i.e., I got lucky), well, that's fine, and will only help the overall model in terms of how it looks in the end.
MrCompletely
Saitama-ken, Japan / 日本
Joined: February 12, 2016
KitMaker: 128 posts
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 04:55 AM UTC
I build almost exclusively O.O.T.B. About 10 years ago, when I had a much better paying job, I did buy some A.M. stuff and a lot of it's still in the stash. On top of that I strongly believe a "true" modeller does what he/she can with what's to hand. Good old scratch-building and gizmology seem to have become somewhat undervalued. When I look at some people's W.I.P. pix on-line and see they've spent anything up to 10 times the price of the model I just shake my head. When all's said and done it's a hobby; you do it to make yourself happy and if that's the way you roll, fine.
LinusB
Western Australia, Australia
Joined: March 21, 2016
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 05:20 AM UTC
I do build mostly out of the box. Although when it comes to doing aircraft I do usually fork out for canopy masks as I hate doing them myself.
bat-213
Canada
Joined: December 30, 2011
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Joined: December 30, 2011
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Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 05:21 AM UTC
I have been building a 124 scale huey ,and the carpet monster had some fun so I have to build some new parts .so its on the back buner for a bit and I will get another kit out and start a new build .
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
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Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 10:52 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi everyone. I didn't even search to see if this had been discussed recently, so here goes...
How many of you are building their models Out of the Box? I have found, after returning to the hobby several years ago, that I have felt as though I'm somehow 'cheating' myself out of detail if I don't get the most aftermarket stuff, and in this I mean primarily, photo etch, that I can. It seems I can't be happy unless I do the maximum. However, I have, conversely, found that this pressure I have put on myself to do this heavy detailing has mostly drained a lot of pleasure of the hobby for me. I get to the point, on most of my models (well, let's be honest, ALL of my builds) that I simply stop the build and set it aside when I reach a point where I need to do a lot of photo etch work. Then the model sits, until/unless I get motivated to take on the super detailing.
What this means is that I don't finish models anymore. I have about 8 tanks in various stages of build, and I'm getting frustrated. I know the detail, even on OOTB builds, is pretty good these days. And, in many cases, though photo etch does add a lot of detail, oftentimes, the fact that I am not an expert at PE means that the quality of the work suffers. Yes there may be more detail, but many of those details aren't done very well. I find myself thinking that maybe the model would be even better, because the kit parts are at least not 'messed up', though they may lack detail. Thus, not only am I getting stuck due to the drudgery of photo etch, and not finishing models, I am not getting to the part that I am kind of feeling is one of the most fun, the painting.
Does anyone else feel this way? Am I along in feeling like I'm not doing 'enough' if I don't go crazy with aftermarket items? Is there anyone who build almost all their models OOTB? Are you happy with your models?
I'm also feeling frustrated at my lack of skill with weathering. I know that many of you will say that you need to practice to get better, and I agree with that, but does fear of not doing it well enough stop any of you form completing builds?
I've found that sometimes, when a build is not going all that well for me, even if I have photo etch parts, I will not use them, thinking that I'll eventually get another of that same kit and build it 'better' the next time, and use the super detailing parts later, on the next build.
So, am I alone in feeling this way? Should I just force myself to go OOTB? I know I'll probably be unhappy either way, but maybe just finishing builds so I can get to the point of painting and weathering will do me some good. What are all of your thoughts on the subject? Anyone?
Some kits, such as the Meng PzH2000 and whippet I've built OOTB, others are heavily supplemented with parts and barrels. It just boils down to kit quality, and more so, preference. There's no harm in making a model OOTB. As for weathering, what I find helps me more than anything is to do it very slowly and in many layers. My models take forever to finish. I'll add a few streaks here and there, sleep on it, see what I think, then either leave it, add some more, or move on to the next layer of weathering. I find the key is subtlety in effects rather than trying to complete a weathering stage in one go.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Joined: July 13, 2015
KitMaker: 401 posts
Armorama: 387 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 10:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I am so very appreciative to all of you who have posted on this thread. Many, many thanks.
I can give you a sense of where I am at today. I'm back working on a Dragon King Tiger, Henschel turret, with Zimmerit. The photo etch that I really wanted to use were the front and rear fenders (mudflaps), and the side guards (or fenders). I just recently got a microtorch for soldering some of these bigger pieces, and while I have been somewhat successful at this, I've learned that soldering PE is its own little niche technique. I did use it on the ribs for the mudguards, though. So, the fenders were the key components that I really felt were needed, though the kit parts are done really quite well, if you want to portray perfectly intact items. In my case, I plan to have at least one of the side guards shown missing, and for this, the PE is ideal. As I'd mentioned before, I just finished the commander cupola MG holder, which is nice in PE, as it is really way out of scale in plastic (too thick). The parts I always have huge problems with are the latches that hold the tools on the tank, and because I am so dreading that, I guess I'll do without them. I had also intended to use the PE holders for the jack, but I have already decided to go with the plastic version of those. I ended up putting some of the PE doodads on the turret top and the top of the rear of the hull. I have been wondering if I should use PE for the headlight, but I'm thinking that will be too much work. And, I've also, partly as a result of this thread, given up on doing the PE parts for the tow cable ends. Between those cable ends and the tool latches, I would be at this for weeks on end, since I am so very slow at doing these PE parts. And they are the most frustrating.
One of the many tanks that are 'on hold' is the Dragon 6600, Initial Tiger I. I had had great plans for this tank, but I've already messed it up, and it makes me want to just give up on this build. I've screwed up a lot of the build, and I've just gotten started. I was working on PE mudguards for the rear, and since I was just starting out with soldering, I ended up burning the edge away of one of the guards. I've also replaced a plastic piece that comes through the mount of one of the rear mudguards, and it is now cocked at an odd angle, and lastly, the support 'angle iron' to hold the jack consists of two PE pieces, which I've really messed up in putting together. These mistakes are enough to make me want to just scrap this tank, and get another 6600 kit and start over. I know myself well, and know that even if I do finish that tank, I will always look at it and fret over the errors. What is particularly frustrating is that the second tank I ever built (since getting back into the hobby) was a Tiger I, with a lot of PE, that I managed to, perhaps with beginner's luck, complete with very few errors. I find myself being so sad that the more experience I get, the worse I seem to be doing. I'm sure Id be a great psychiatric case...maybe there is more to this than simply modeling issues?
While it may sound as if I have built a large number of tank models, the fact is that I've only actually fully completed 5 models. The Tiger I, a Tamiya Challenger 2, a Tasca Sherman, all of which are sort of on display, a Dragon M1A1 that never really got fully completed, and another Dragon M1A1 that ended up going to Ft. Stewart as part of the Thunder Run exhibit. The latter is probably the best work I've ever done, and I was honored that they even let me contribute, though there was very little PE on that tank, and the work I did was marginal at best, compared to most of the others who built models for that exhibit.
I almost always want to use aftermarket tracks. I am fortunate to be able to afford them, and I most use Fruil metal tracks for tanks where the tracks are mostly seen, like on German WWII tanks. Those are easy, though, and hard to mess up. Kit tracks for tanks without sag in their tracks are fine.
Maybe I can just try hard to live with OOTB. While I know I'd like the detail of PE, I'm sure I would be much happier with a tank that didn't have mistakes, such as if I were to start the Initial Tiger I 6600 over again.
Sorry for the additional rant...
I'm also currently working on the Dragon KT 6303, completely converting it into KT 1+09, with almost every after market part replacement. Again, as for the OOTB concerns, here's a link to one of my OOTB builds:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/7343
How does it compare to other kits heavily supplemented with AM parts? The weathering on it is minimal (very slight dusting, mainly streaking).
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 02:24 PM UTC
HI Curt,
I'm mostly an OOTB builder. I use Friuls occasionally when I want to do it the easy way or if the tracks that come with the kit are nasty.
Don't see the point in tiny little pieces of etch. Especially if the kit has plastic pieces that look as good as the etch. Metal barrels... Bah! If the kit barrel can't be straightened, then maybe.
Tool latches? No way! Too hard for my fumble fingers and less than perfect vision.
For German skirts on tanks, some metal is useful. But then you gotta get the paint to stick to it. When it comes to Schurzen, the more that are missing, the better the tank looks, anyway.
With every kit, I have a place when I need to call it finished. Stressing and re-doing... Can't do it. Gotta say good enough is good enough.
Have fun!
Gaz
I'm mostly an OOTB builder. I use Friuls occasionally when I want to do it the easy way or if the tracks that come with the kit are nasty.
Don't see the point in tiny little pieces of etch. Especially if the kit has plastic pieces that look as good as the etch. Metal barrels... Bah! If the kit barrel can't be straightened, then maybe.
Tool latches? No way! Too hard for my fumble fingers and less than perfect vision.
For German skirts on tanks, some metal is useful. But then you gotta get the paint to stick to it. When it comes to Schurzen, the more that are missing, the better the tank looks, anyway.
With every kit, I have a place when I need to call it finished. Stressing and re-doing... Can't do it. Gotta say good enough is good enough.
Have fun!
Gaz
mmeier
Nordrhein-Westfalen, Germany
Joined: October 22, 2008
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,015 posts
Joined: October 22, 2008
KitMaker: 1,280 posts
Armorama: 1,015 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 06:00 PM UTC
For a certain period of time I was almost "obsessed" with AM parts. Up to a point where frustration about the "fiddly parts" became so great that a (costly) kit went airborne and I actually cleaned out the stockpile.
After a 2+ years pause from model building I am now mostly OOB with a very few, very select AM parts. PE is only bought after a lengthy comparison between the kit in hand and the building plans for the PE (No online plans/series of pictures => no buy) and then only if a) I consider 75+ percent of the parts useable and b) a massive enhancement (Say the Sgt. York PE set)
Even OOB I am a lot more selective these days. "Rubber Band" tracks are ok, Link&Length are acceptable, everything else is a "no buy" (Sadly, I would love to do a Chieftain Mk10) and I have been partially switching to cars for this reason.
After a 2+ years pause from model building I am now mostly OOB with a very few, very select AM parts. PE is only bought after a lengthy comparison between the kit in hand and the building plans for the PE (No online plans/series of pictures => no buy) and then only if a) I consider 75+ percent of the parts useable and b) a massive enhancement (Say the Sgt. York PE set)
Even OOB I am a lot more selective these days. "Rubber Band" tracks are ok, Link&Length are acceptable, everything else is a "no buy" (Sadly, I would love to do a Chieftain Mk10) and I have been partially switching to cars for this reason.
cabasner
Nevada, United States
Joined: February 12, 2012
KitMaker: 1,083 posts
Armorama: 1,014 posts
Joined: February 12, 2012
KitMaker: 1,083 posts
Armorama: 1,014 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 06:07 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Again, as for the OOTB concerns, here's a link to one of my OOTB builds:
https://armorama.kitmaker.net//features/7343
How does it compare to other kits heavily supplemented with AM parts? The weathering on it is minimal (very slight dusting, mainly streaking).
Krupp - I'm really impressed with your OOTB build. Maybe you should be my motivation to get to the point where OOTB is fine. Your AFV looks great! I need to work on certain skills anyway, and painting is certain one of those, and you need to get to the end of a build at some point to try those painting and weathering skills. Ultimately, no matter who good the build is, without the finishing touches, it doesn't matter much, anyway.
cabasner
Nevada, United States
Joined: February 12, 2012
KitMaker: 1,083 posts
Armorama: 1,014 posts
Joined: February 12, 2012
KitMaker: 1,083 posts
Armorama: 1,014 posts
Posted: Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 06:09 PM UTC
Quoted Text
With every kit, I have a place when I need to call it finished. Stressing and re-doing... Can't do it. Gotta say good enough is good enough.
Have fun!
Gaz
Gary: Agreed!!