Do you guys use washes after completing the painting of your models? If so, what procedures do you guys use to make your wash? I tried making one but it looks like nothing more than dirty dishwater. Does that mean there's too much thinner? I used enamel paint because I didn't have any oil paint while experimenting. Thanks.

I have only used washes once, and it was with enamels also. It sounds like you might not have enough paint or the paint is not dark enough. I read an article about using light colors for dust and dark colors for shadows or oil. What effect where you trying to get with the wash? If we know that it would be easier to help.

Your right, I may have not had enough paint in the mix.

As far as what I'm trying to accomplish, I'm trying to darken corners and recesses and get some contrast.

I'm relatively new to armor so I'm trying out all kinds of things to see how they work and this is one of the things I'm working on. Thanks. :-)

I am in the same spot, building my first armor model. I would try black with maybe a little brown mixed in. In my opinion I would say your off to a good start. The first time I used washes I started really light then worked in more paint until I got the desired effect. You can always add more but its really hard to take it off once you painted it on. I also found out that one wash will work great for one color or shade but not with something that is lighter or darker so you will have to make different washes for each situation. Thats about all I am good for on the subject. Good luck

the wash I use was featured in FSM a few years back, works good for me.
I spray the whole model with a few light coats of "acrylic" clear gloss(over enamel paints) or future. Then I mix enamel thinner(lots of it) with browns and blacks. Dip your paint brush in the wash mix and lightly touch it to a panel line. It should suck itself down the length of the panel line. If it doesn't, thin it some more. Do the whole model like this and let it dry. When dry, take an old T-shirt and put one drop of enamel thinner on it, and rub lightly (going the same direction each time)over the panel line. Not too much though because it will eat thru the gloss coat. When done, spray with a Dullcote.

I always use washes on my armor models... Dilute the paint in thinner (so you should get a tinted thinner and not thinned paint) and apply to the recesses of the model.

Last time I have been experimenting with a wash on my IDF Blazer, and I must say I was very satisfied... I gave the complete model a overall dark brown/black wash (I applyed it to the WHOLE model.. not just to the recesses). The paint job got a bit darker and the details were a bit accentuated in that way.. Slight drybrushing and that was it.
BTW I'm working with enamels.

Mario M.

I use artist water colors for my wash I use about 1/2 dollop,then add 1 drop of dish soap,then add a little water A hobby shop employee recommended that to me a year ago He said if you mess it up just take a damp paper towel and wipe it off
What would be a good color to use on German dark yellow for the wash? Brown? I just go for the ressesed areas
Chad

Chad, the panzer IV I just finished had a dark yellow finish and I used a burnt umber oil wash that turned out real good. It was my first experiment with a wash and I learned a lot.

1. Constant mixing of the wash is necessary to ensure that the brush gets both oil and thinner before application.

2. Using the right brush is a must. I used a brush that was a little big and it showed in a couple spots. I have since gotten a set of fine tipped brushes that I can't wait to try out with my next kit.

3. The capillary action really works. I was so surprised when I saw it for the first time. Call me a newbie I guess. As soon as I applied the wash to a recessed panel line on the panzer the wash immediately worked it's way around about half the panel line. Awesome!

4. Experiment on a test hulk before applying to your work in progress. I tested and experimented for about a week before I finally took the plunge with the panzer. It's amazing how changing the brush type can give a different effect with the wash. Fine tip for the recessed area's but if you want to get a dirty/grimy look switch to a bigger (within reason) softer brush to cover a broad area.

And Chad, the way you talked about adding the dishwashing soap. I read an article today on an aircraft modeling site that used pastels in the same manner. The pastels were applied liberally to recessed panel lines, allowed to dry for an hour and then the excess was gently wiped away with a damp kleenex.

Here's a link for those interested in these two procedures. It has a good example of how to do and apply a wash (the best I've seen yet) and how to do a pastel wash. After clicking on the link hit the tools 'n' tips link at the top of the page then scroll down to find the procedures. Plenty of other stuff on that page too. Go here.

Bryan that wash article was great!! I'm in for the cheap and easy stuff. I'll have to try that technique on figures!! On cleaning out the barn at my in-law's farm we found a bunch of pigments...all I have to do try, free is as cheap as it gets!!

Another tip:
Check the condition of you wash on your thumb. If it follows the whorls of you fingerprint but doesn't stain your finger, you got it right. Keep a rag handy to wipe you thumb befor you handle your model.

After 10 years of misery, my first figures in the production...
Somewhat easy Omaha Beach scenario with four Allied guys. The Italeri 1/35 figures are not too detailed, but will do for practise. I´m using Tamiya acrylics with Createx airbrush colours. So far I´ve had nice results with watercolour washes in skin parts. With watercolour it´s possible to add very thin layers and they even mix well with the acrylics for some subtle shading and highlight spots. The effect is actually pretty artistic.
Nice to join in!

Toni Kysenius

Thanks for the info Envar. I am learning how to do figures myself. Mainly wanted to give you a welcome to the sight, you will like it here.

since i use tamiya acrylics, i guess then i should use something like an acryllic gloss coat BUT enamel thinner in th ewash, as not to eat away at teh acryllics. i have heard of wating about a weak and then using an acryillic thinner in the wash over and acryllic golss coat adn it won eat away the paint becasue it set after a weekso drybrushing is after the wash and then teh last thing ever applies is a matte varnish i assume?

There's an article at FSM by Paul Boyer, which gives a method similar to the one at ARC in the above link. Paul uses a sludge wash technique, which seems to be pretty effective, and which you can clean up easily too. I tried this on my F6F-5 Hellcat, and it worked like a dream!

The article is in PDF format, so you can download it easily for future reference. If you don't find it, send me a PM with your email id, and I'll gladly share it with you..

Cheers,
BP.

What about the anti-skid texture on the fenders of German WW2 vehicles? (eg: the fenders of the Pzkpfw IV). Does one use a wide brush across the entire fender or touch a small brush to each individual raised detail?

I tried a wash on my first model using black Testors paint and thinner and it didn't do a thing for me. Then I picked up some Windsor/Newton oil colors. First I coated the tank with Future. After letting it dry for a day I painted the model with thinner, per Shep Paine's instructions in his book. Then I mixed about a toothpick tip full of burnt umber with thinner. This gave my models a very nice dirty look. I also used some black oil paint and thinner to represent spilled gasoline. As others here have said the thing you want is tinted thinner, not thinned paint.

I can't wait to get home tonight and try out some of the suggestions on this thread. I especially want to try out the capillary action on the seems of this tank.

I've had very limited success with using either Tamiya or PollyS/PollyScale as a wash. Maybe adding diswashing helps, but frankly, I'd rather go with an enamel or an oil. Pigment just seems to be that much finer in these. With acrylics, there always seems to be these chunks of color rather than a tinting stain. Andrea/Vallejo seem to have a fine enough pigment and are designed to be thinned before use so they might work better. I've applied an enamel wash over an enamel painted model within 48 hours with no problems. If you handbrush, you may need to wait longer because you're getting a thicker layer of paint to begin with. I use an airbrush for armor, autos, aircraft. I also let the wash flow rather than brushing it on. The only place I'll essentially do any brushing is in a grill section to make sure I have an even cover of wash.




Correct on these last two statements.