Hello all,
I just soaked an Iwata HP-CS nozzle with brass holder in the Medea airbrush cleaning solution for 24 hours and the brass turned brown. As far as I know, this product should not contain ammonia (and has no smell). Has anyone had this issue? Is the brass damaged?
Thanks!
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Airbrush cleaner help
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 04:01 AM UTC
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 07:43 PM UTC
Do you mean the paint cup? The paint cup interior on mine discolored no matter what I used as cleaner, including the Medea cleaner. I never submerse or let my AB soak - just clean it thoroughly after each use. Only takes about 10 min.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 07:55 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Do you mean the paint cup? The paint cup interior on mine discolored no matter what I used as cleaner, including the Medea cleaner. I never submerse or let my AB soak - just clean it thoroughly after each use. Only takes about 10 min.
Same here, I dissasemble, clean, and reassemble it after each session like a rifle, but after a year and a half of use I thought I’d soak it in a non-ammonia cleaner. I was referring to the small conical brass piece holding the nozzle itself, which I assume is steel. Supposedly the cleaner only contains detergents and alcohol.
tread_geek
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 08:41 PM UTC
I have had my Iwata HP-CS for about four years and have disassembled and cleaned it "religiously" after every use. Now the funny thing that I'd like to point out is that except for the first few cleanings in which I used the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (#87089-500) I have regularly been using "Windex w/ Amonia-'D' " with NO ill effects. A couple of more points to consider is that I only use the Iwata with acrylic paints (Tamiya, ModelMaster), do not soak the parts and rinse them with clear water after cleaning.
Cheers,
Jan
Cheers,
Jan
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 10:19 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have had my Iwata HP-CS for about four years and have disassembled and cleaned it "religiously" after every use. Now the funny thing that I'd like to point out is that except for the first few cleanings in which I used the Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner (#87089-500) I have regularly been using "Windex w/ Amonia-'D' " with NO ill effects. A couple of more points to consider is that I only use the Iwata with acrylic paints (Tamiya, ModelMaster), do not soak the parts and rinse them with clear water after cleaning.
Cheers,
Jan
Hi Jan,
Likewise, during a paint session I rinse between acrylics with windex and then immediately water. It surprised me that a non-ammonia soak changed the colour.
Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 10:19 PM UTC
I had issues with my airbrush clogging up, I use a variety of paints, and it was causing me some grief.
Took apart and cleaned, I do not know how many times.
Went to my local art supply, where I bought the airbrush, and they tried helping and we figured out that one of the Createx paints I had tried, with a Createx thinner, had caused some reaction with the paint. The paint clumped up into a ball in the thinner, imagine what that did inside the airbrush.
Bought a Iwata airbrush cleaner refill kit and used it, the actual airbrush cleaner kit is about one hundred dollars, I mean really that is another model, so I used the kit, great instructions inside and some cool little tools, and rarely have a problem, except for Vallejo primer.
Grab one of those refill kits, you will not be sorry.
Took apart and cleaned, I do not know how many times.
Went to my local art supply, where I bought the airbrush, and they tried helping and we figured out that one of the Createx paints I had tried, with a Createx thinner, had caused some reaction with the paint. The paint clumped up into a ball in the thinner, imagine what that did inside the airbrush.
Bought a Iwata airbrush cleaner refill kit and used it, the actual airbrush cleaner kit is about one hundred dollars, I mean really that is another model, so I used the kit, great instructions inside and some cool little tools, and rarely have a problem, except for Vallejo primer.
Grab one of those refill kits, you will not be sorry.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
Joined: July 13, 2015
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 10:33 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I had issues with my airbrush clogging up, I use a variety of paints, and it was causing me some grief.
Took apart and cleaned, I do not know how many times.
Went to my local art supply, where I bought the airbrush, and they tried helping and we figured out that one of the Createx paints I had tried, with a Createx thinner, had caused some reaction with the paint. The paint clumped up into a ball in the thinner, imagine what that did inside the airbrush.
Bought a Iwata airbrush cleaner refill kit and used it, the actual airbrush cleaner kit is about one hundred dollars, I mean really that is another model, so I used the kit, great instructions inside and some cool little tools, and rarely have a problem, except for Vallejo primer.
Grab one of those refill kits, you will not be sorry.
Can you please post a link to the kit you are referring to? Also, I know many people have posted that they’ve had trouble with Vallejo primers and clogging. I’ve thoroughly abused the airbrush with Vallejo and stynylrez primers and have never had a clog. What I do is after I finish priming, fill the cup with windex and scrape out the primer skin that forms inside with a Q-tip. Then run the rest of the windex through he nozzle. I mostly use Vallejo paints, but when it comes to primer, Stynylrez is my choice.
tread_geek
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 23, 2008
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 11:31 PM UTC
Quoted Text
.... What I do is after I finish priming, full the cup with windex and scrap out the primer skin that forms inside with a Q-tip. Then run the rest of the windex through he nozzle....
My method virtually mirrors yours with the Windex and Q-Tips. However, at one point I pull out the needle, block the front orifice to have the Windex "bubble" into the cup. After that I spray the cup contents normally without the needle in position, oh, and wipe the needle while its removed.
Cheers,
Jan
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Thursday, October 19, 2017 - 11:42 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted Text
.... What I do is after I finish priming, full the cup with windex and scrap out the primer skin that forms inside with a Q-tip. Then run the rest of the windex through he nozzle....
My method virtually mirrors yours with the Windex and Q-Tips. However, at one point I pull out the needle, block the front orifice to have the Windex "bubble" into the cup. After that I spray the cup contents normally without the needle in position, oh, and wipe the needle while its removed.
Cheers,
Jan
100% agree. I guess I only went wrong with the soak. Lesson learned
Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 02:25 AM UTC
I just bought the refill, just missing a few pieces but works just as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/Iwata-Airbrush-Cleaning-Refill-Pack/dp/B00OTTL0E8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1508534608&sr=8-12&keywords=iwata+airbrush+cleaning+kit
I was looking at that other primer today, still undecided.
https://www.amazon.ca/Iwata-Airbrush-Cleaning-Refill-Pack/dp/B00OTTL0E8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1508534608&sr=8-12&keywords=iwata+airbrush+cleaning+kit
I was looking at that other primer today, still undecided.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 03:06 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I just bought the refill, just missing a few pieces but works just as well.
https://www.amazon.ca/Iwata-Airbrush-Cleaning-Refill-Pack/dp/B00OTTL0E8/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1508534608&sr=8-12&keywords=iwata+airbrush+cleaning+kit
I was looking at that other primer today, still undecided.
Stynylrez 100%. You won’t regret it. You can sand it to the point the edges feather when it’s cured. It can also fill very minor seam lines.
TopSmith
Washington, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 03:18 AM UTC
I bought an ultra sonic cleaner and every so often I fill it with windex and run the parts through for 2 minutes. occasionally I get surprised by the junk that comes out.
There must be a reason Iwata does not chrome the interior of the cup like they do the exterior but I can't figure it out.
There must be a reason Iwata does not chrome the interior of the cup like they do the exterior but I can't figure it out.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 03:41 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I bought an ultra sonic cleaner and every so often I fill it with windex and run the parts through for 2 minutes. occasionally I get surprised by the junk that comes out.
There must be a reason Iwata does not chrome the interior of the cup like they do the exterior but I can't figure it out.
Strangely enough, the inside of the cup for me is still shiny brass, even after all the abuse (sometimes the paint sessions are 5-6 hours long with windex in between).
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 03:53 AM UTC
When I bought my Iwata the dealer told me to never clean with Windex, or any other ammonia-based cleaner. I suspect that was just a marketing ploy because he wanted to sell the Iwata Medea cleaner -about $10/liter. Switched back to Windex with no ill effects. I just don't soak it overnight.
flippen_waffles
California, United States
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 04:08 AM UTC
I've been cleaning mine with acetone for years with no problems.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 04:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
When I bought my Iwata the dealer told me to never clean with Windex, or any other ammonia-based cleaner. I suspect that was just a marketing ploy because he wanted to sell the Iwata Medea cleaner -about $10/liter. Switched back to Windex with no ill effects. I just don't soak it overnight.
Understandable for windex, which contains ammonia, but one wouldn’t expect it from the Medea solution designed for airbrushes.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 04:12 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I've been cleaning mine with acetone for years with no problems.
Acetone to clean acrylics? It might work well but you’d need a fume extractor.
Biggles2
Quebec, Canada
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Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 08:25 PM UTC
Since I airbrush almost exclusively with Tamiya paint thinned with their own laquer, most cleaners won't do the job, including Windex and Medea cleaner. I now use a store brand laquer thinner for cleaning my AB - never soaking, use Q-tips and filling the paint cup, stripping down and wiping off and swabbing through the components. A bit smelly (and toxic!) but does the job.
Posted: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 01:23 AM UTC
One thing I have not seen mentioned, and it is a really big consideration with airbrushes and the paints and such we use, is the size of the needle and aperture that we use.
Paints and Primers, do not clearly mark the size of the particles that they have, look at the Stynyirez primer and you will see that they recommend a .5 needle or larger, thinning will not make that smaller, from what I understand, as the particles are .5 and may not pass through a smaller needle, this will clog the brush and give you really bad spray patterns.
Paints and Primers, do not clearly mark the size of the particles that they have, look at the Stynyirez primer and you will see that they recommend a .5 needle or larger, thinning will not make that smaller, from what I understand, as the particles are .5 and may not pass through a smaller needle, this will clog the brush and give you really bad spray patterns.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
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Posted: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 01:53 AM UTC
i shot the Stynyirez primer and the Ammo "One Shot Primer" (same stuff different bottle) with my Badger 105 Patriot with the 0.3 needle at 25-30 PSI,no clogs,perfect flow and no spitting problem...nothing,works beautyfully
But is true,thinning will not make the pigments smaller
But is true,thinning will not make the pigments smaller
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 01:59 AM UTC
Quoted Text
One thing I have not seen mentioned, and it is a really big consideration with airbrushes and the paints and such we use, is the size of the needle and aperture that we use.
Paints and Primers, do not clearly mark the size of the particles that they have, look at the Stynyirez primer and you will see that they recommend a .5 needle or larger, thinning will not make that smaller, from what I understand, as the particles are .5 and may not pass through a smaller needle, this will clog the brush and give you really bad spray patterns.
The particles themselves are still microscopic, not 0.5 mm. I spray the Badger primer at 30 PSI with a 0.35 mm nozzle and it’s as smooth as butter. They recommend 0.5 mm because the stuff is more viscous and not meant to be thinned. Thicker paint is easier to atomize with a larger nozzle.
KruppCake
Ontario, Canada
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Posted: Wednesday, November 08, 2017 - 02:01 AM UTC
Quoted Text
i shot the Stynyirez primer and the Ammo "One Shot Primer" (same stuff different bottle) with my Badger 105 Patriot with the 0.3 needle at 25-30 PSI,no clogs,perfect flow and no spitting problem...nothing,works beautyfully
But is true,thinning will not make the pigments smaller
Correct. It will not make them smaller but will put more space between them so they don’t ‘run into each other’ and cause more clogging, if you will.