I thought I would post my technique and sequence for painting, weathering and finishing an armor model.
Whether right, wrong, or indifferent these are the steps I personally take and am happy with the results. Years ago I found Matt Toms Finishing and Weathering Sequence on Armorama and it helped me tremendously in the basics of finishing a model.
I thought I would try and give back to the forum my sequence of steps. Take what you want from my steps, adapt what you want to fit your needs, but most of all have fun in doing it.
I use techniques from Shep Paine, Mig, Michael Rinaldi and Adam Wilder, as well as so many others. So, some of the steps I list may seem familiar or you have heard or seen them used before.
Enjoy!
1. Primer Coat
a. Let dry 24 hours
2. Pre-Shading (Black, Dark grey, Dark Brown, etc.- applied to areas of “dark shadow”- Acrylic)
a. Let dry 24 hours
3. Base Coat (Acrylic)
a. Let dry 24 hours
4. Modulation (Lighter Shades on center of panels, etc.- Acrylic)
5. Highlight (Detail Points/ High Points- Acrylic)
a. Using a very light color of the base color
6. Detail Painting (Tools, Painted Markings, Dry Transfers, etc.- Acrylic)
7. Protection Layer (Gloss)
a. Only if applying waterslide decals
b. Skip to Step 9 if not applying decals or if the markings are painted on.
8. Decals (Micro Sol/ Micro Set)
9. Protection Layer (Satin/ Semi-Gloss)
10. Filter (using pre-mixed filter- enamel or diluted oil color)
a. Apply over entire vehicle
b. Let dry 24 hours
11. Oil Dot Filters (Oil Paint Rendering- “The Rinaldi Method”)
a. Sides- streaking/ stippling- pulling dots down; pointed motion
b. Top- stumping/ stippling- circular motion; pointed motion
c. Let dry at least 48-72 hours
12. Dark Wash/ Pin Wash (using pre-mixed enamel wash or diluted oil color)
a. Hitting all weld seams and crevices, around tool clamps, lights, etc.
13. Chipping (Acrylic)
a. Initial painted chips using lighter base color
b. Then use a darker color (ie: German Camo Black Brown) inside the lighter chips
14. Rust Tones (Over Chipping) (Acrylic)
a. Apply a small rusty tone to the top of the darker color chips- randomly, not all the chips
b. Let dry 24 hours
15. Speckling Part 1 (applying small spots)
a. Use the colored filter, rust wash, colored pigments and thinner- mixed; applied with a stencil brush
b. Let dry 24 hours
16. Apply rust tones to exhaust areas- as needed
a. Paint initial rust color onto base painted exhausts (optional chipping method can be used)
b. Apply pigments/ sealer over painted exhausts
17. Rust Streaks
a. If needed based on vehicle age, location, etc.
b. Let dry 24 hours
18. Earth Effects (Dust, Mud, etc.)
a. Use based on location
b. Ensure proper color/ consistency based on diorama products used- MUST MATCH EXACTLY
19. Tracks (If vehicle uses them)
a. Install after initial Earth Effects are applied- (pre-paint the tracks at Step 3)
20. Rain Streaks (As needed)
a. Let dry 24 hours
21. Final Protection Layer (Flat)
a. Let dry 24 hours
22. Dry Earth Effects (Pigments)
a. Use only if needed based on vehicle location
23. Speckling Part 2 (applying more small spots)
a. Use Earth Tones and thinner- mixed; applied with a stencil brush
24. Damp Earth Tones (Pigments, etc.)
a. Use only if needed based on vehicle location
25. Exhaust Effects/ Soot
a. Apply black pigments to tips of exhaust, areas where exhaust escapes
26. Tracks (Installed in Step 18)
a. Final Weathering (if needed to tie in diorama colors after final protection layer)
27. Oil and Fuel Stains
a. Applied sparingly as to not overdo the effect
28. Let Model Dry Before Attaching to Base
a. 24-48 hours drying time is best
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Matthew Toms
Painting, Weathering and Finishing Steps
timcc2008
United States
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 12:30 AM UTC
imnewtomodels
United States
Joined: September 01, 2017
KitMaker: 39 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Joined: September 01, 2017
KitMaker: 39 posts
Armorama: 15 posts
Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 12:55 AM UTC
From someone new to the hobby, thanks for posting this.
Vicious
Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Friday, October 20, 2017 - 06:38 AM UTC
I use more or less the same sequence depending on what and in what scale.
thanks nice post
thanks nice post
timcc2008
United States
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 04:43 PM UTC
John, Vicious- I am glad both of you found this helpful.
vr
Tim
vr
Tim
deerstalker36
Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 16, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Joined: May 16, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 06:38 PM UTC
nice and simple but concise, i like it, thanks
timcc2008
United States
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 07:59 PM UTC
Colin- You're welcome. I use it as my "reference sheet" as I go along.
vr
Tim
vr
Tim
timcc2008
United States
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Joined: May 12, 2010
KitMaker: 139 posts
Armorama: 135 posts
Posted: Monday, November 06, 2017 - 06:35 PM UTC
If anyone has any specific questions about my sequence or about what products I use, please let me know.
vr
Tim
vr
Tim