AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
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Thining tamiya acrylics
scouser
Joined: March 10, 2004
KitMaker: 20 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 - 03:10 AM UTC
Hello all just wondering whats the best ratio for thining tamiya acrylics im using the tamiya thiner and an aztec A709 airbrush and a ripmax compressor please help.
scoccia
Joined: September 02, 2002
KitMaker: 2,606 posts
Armorama: 1,721 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 - 08:00 AM UTC
I usually thin them from a minimum of 50% to a max of 80-90% thinner, depending on how "heavy" the coat has to be...
Ciao
Ciao
TwistedFate
Joined: February 11, 2003
KitMaker: 805 posts
Armorama: 286 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 10, 2004 - 12:24 PM UTC
For normal painting coverage I thin 40-60% (just eyeball it). For a spray wash I thin it about 80-90%
scouser
Joined: March 10, 2004
KitMaker: 20 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 - 08:28 PM UTC
thx for the help lads
Xavier
Joined: March 12, 2004
KitMaker: 15 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 08, 2004 - 05:46 PM UTC
Would I use the same ratio for enamels?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
Plasticbattle
#003
Joined: May 14, 2002
KitMaker: 9,763 posts
Armorama: 7,444 posts
Posted: Thursday, April 08, 2004 - 07:04 PM UTC
I thin tamiya acrylics ..... but never measure. I go by the "thin to milk consistency" idea. Indeed, when looking for different effects I could thin a lot more as well. For base colour, I usually keep it thicker to get better coverage. But then for fading, weathering, etc it is a lot thinner ... so everything from 25% to 95% thinner is used. I guess you get an eye for this after some time. For enamels... I go by the same rule ... although I use enamels more for filters and can be as much as 98% thinner.
I use isopropynol (rubbing) alcohol only for thinning tamiya acrylics and humbrols own enamel thinner for enamels. I ve tried other things and am never confident enough to use anything else after having some bad experiences with other thinners earlier.
I use isopropynol (rubbing) alcohol only for thinning tamiya acrylics and humbrols own enamel thinner for enamels. I ve tried other things and am never confident enough to use anything else after having some bad experiences with other thinners earlier.
druid
Joined: December 28, 2003
KitMaker: 211 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 11, 2004 - 07:43 AM UTC
I have the A4709 airbrush set and so far I've mostly sprayed Vallejo acrylics with it. I recently ordered a batch of different Tamiya paints but haven't really tried them yet because they are for the next project.
The only Tamiya paint I have sprayed is the Nato black (XF-69). For that I first added some windscreen fluid (isopropyl with a pleasant lemon scent
) to water so that the ratio was something like 50/50 for water and the alco. Then I went for the ever so popular "milk like" consistency. I usually find that something like 60% paint and 40% water works well. I generally use a pressure of about 2 bars from the compressor. I set it to be 2 when idle so it drops between 1.5 and 2 when actually spraying.
Recently I've cut down the isopropyl because it creates a sweet smell in the apartment and the neighbours thought someone in the building was smoking pot ... :-)
If you are not critically short on paint just test different mixtures and you'll find the right consistency. At first I tried measuring everything precisely, I have some syringes that allow for a tenth of a millilitre's accuracy but it's really not that exact science.
The only Tamiya paint I have sprayed is the Nato black (XF-69). For that I first added some windscreen fluid (isopropyl with a pleasant lemon scent
) to water so that the ratio was something like 50/50 for water and the alco. Then I went for the ever so popular "milk like" consistency. I usually find that something like 60% paint and 40% water works well. I generally use a pressure of about 2 bars from the compressor. I set it to be 2 when idle so it drops between 1.5 and 2 when actually spraying.Recently I've cut down the isopropyl because it creates a sweet smell in the apartment and the neighbours thought someone in the building was smoking pot ... :-)
If you are not critically short on paint just test different mixtures and you'll find the right consistency. At first I tried measuring everything precisely, I have some syringes that allow for a tenth of a millilitre's accuracy but it's really not that exact science.
firemann816
Joined: September 14, 2003
KitMaker: 790 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 02:56 AM UTC
Cant any/all acrylics be thinned with water?
I ask because Ive been using enamels and am thinking about switching to Acrylics for my airbrushing work, and leaving enamels for the brush/detail stuff
I like the idea of being able to clean up my AB with water...
Havent done any yet, just wondering
I ask because Ive been using enamels and am thinking about switching to Acrylics for my airbrushing work, and leaving enamels for the brush/detail stuff
I like the idea of being able to clean up my AB with water...
Havent done any yet, just wondering
Teacher
Joined: April 05, 2003
KitMaker: 4,924 posts
Armorama: 3,679 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 03:12 AM UTC
I regularly thin with water, and also clean my airbrushes with water. Never had a problem, so go for it!
Vinnie
Vinnie
firemann816
Joined: September 14, 2003
KitMaker: 790 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 06:42 AM UTC
good news
thanks
thanks
Part-timer
Joined: April 11, 2003
KitMaker: 361 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 07:29 AM UTC
I've had mixed success thinning with water, and now use rubbing alcohol (and occassionally a single drop of Windex) to thin for the a/b. Water thinning seemed to promote clogging, as well as centipedes on the model; I prefer the alcohol so that the paint is dry within a second or so of touching the model's surface. But, to each his own.
firemann816
Joined: September 14, 2003
KitMaker: 790 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 08:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I prefer the alcohol so that the paint is dry within a second or so of touching the model's surface.
Well, I have become used to that fine feature with enamels and would like the same of acrylics -
I guess I could thin w/ alcohol, and clean the brush and any resultant messes with isopropyl
I guess I'll get a big bottle of it from the hardware store while I'm up there getting the parts for my spray booth I'll build this summer...
Part-timer
Joined: April 11, 2003
KitMaker: 361 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 12, 2004 - 08:31 AM UTC
Better than cleaning with alcohol is Windex window cleaner. Shoot a small color-cup-full at the end of your spraying session into a pipe cleaner on a paper towel, then use the paper towel and piper cleaner to clean the a/b. I can do my Paasche VL in under 5 mintues.
Actually, if you "prime" the a/b by shooting Windex for just a second or two before you start painting (you need to check the spread/feed anyway, right?), it makes everything inside slippery. It takes much longer for the a/b to clog, and cleaning is easier when its done. I thin with alcohol and clean with Windex; I use water only for cleaning brushes and doing decals.
Oh, BTW, plain old rubbing alcohol from the drug store is isopropyl, and will work fine. $.89 for several months worth where I am...
Actually, if you "prime" the a/b by shooting Windex for just a second or two before you start painting (you need to check the spread/feed anyway, right?), it makes everything inside slippery. It takes much longer for the a/b to clog, and cleaning is easier when its done. I thin with alcohol and clean with Windex; I use water only for cleaning brushes and doing decals.
Oh, BTW, plain old rubbing alcohol from the drug store is isopropyl, and will work fine. $.89 for several months worth where I am...
mpalao
Joined: June 19, 2005
KitMaker: 243 posts
Armorama: 58 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 09:38 AM UTC
Hi! One question about to employ Tamiya paint with airbrush method.
I'm trying to use this paint (black colour Tamiya, X-1), I'm thinning this paint by 30%paint 70% thinner Tamiya, but my problem is I see the results, when I put my airbrush in far zone , the border is with small paint points solid.
It is normal, this problem is normal for acrylic paints?
because I suppose with 30-70 is sufficient to obtain good results.
What is the problem?
Thanks
I'm trying to use this paint (black colour Tamiya, X-1), I'm thinning this paint by 30%paint 70% thinner Tamiya, but my problem is I see the results, when I put my airbrush in far zone , the border is with small paint points solid.
It is normal, this problem is normal for acrylic paints?
because I suppose with 30-70 is sufficient to obtain good results.
What is the problem?
Thanks
MrRoo
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
Armorama: 2,984 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 09:58 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi! One question about to employ Tamiya paint with airbrush method.
I'm trying to use this paint (black colour Tamiya, X-1), I'm thinning this paint by 30%paint 70% thinner Tamiya, but my problem is I see the results, when I put my airbrush in far zone , the border is with small paint points solid.
It is normal, this problem is normal for acrylic paints?
because I suppose with 30-70 is sufficient to obtain good results.
What is the problem?
Thanks
my friend what you have done by thinning the paint by 70% is to create a wash and not a thinned paint mix. Plus it sounds to me that it was not mixed correctly either.
I never, unless I require a wash or filter, thin any type of paint by more then 50%. Unlike others I do not judge it by eye I measure it. Some colors in paint seem thinner then others and these get even less thinner then normal.
I also use isopropynol (rubbing) alcohol for my acrylics and a good quality enamel thinner from the paint store for my enamels. I use mainly Humbrol enamels but I also have a few Tamiya enamels as well. I also use Tamiya acrylics but more for washes only now.
hope this helps.
Cliff
PS> my spray pressure is normally 10 to 15 pound maximum.
HILBERT
Joined: August 07, 2004
KitMaker: 4,808 posts
Armorama: 1,069 posts
Posted: Sunday, July 31, 2005 - 10:25 AM UTC
Play with some measures, if you like a kind of thickness, you'll get this almost automaticly after a period of time. Well I have.
I guess my thickness is about 30/40 % paint and 70/60 % thinner.
Greetz Hilbert
I guess my thickness is about 30/40 % paint and 70/60 % thinner.
Greetz Hilbert
Easy_Co
Joined: September 11, 2002
KitMaker: 1,933 posts
Armorama: 985 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 06, 2005 - 09:11 PM UTC
Can anyone tell me if humbrol thinners is any good or just white spirit in a different bottle and double the price, reason i ask is I usually thin enamels with white spirit but lately i get a shiney finish . 
nzgunnie
Joined: October 15, 2004
KitMaker: 371 posts
Armorama: 174 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 06, 2005 - 10:17 PM UTC
For thinning I use the recommended thinners these days, and use turpentine (for enamels) and IPA (for Acrylics) to clean brushes/airbrush.
If you keep the the brand thinners just for thinning it still lasts long enough to be economical.
If you keep the the brand thinners just for thinning it still lasts long enough to be economical.
propboy44256
Joined: November 20, 2002
KitMaker: 1,038 posts
Armorama: 454 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 07, 2005 - 12:04 AM UTC
Doesn't the blue dye in the cleaner effect your color?
Quoted Text
Better than cleaning with alcohol is Windex window cleaner. Shoot a small color-cup-full at the end of your spraying session into a pipe cleaner on a paper towel, then use the paper towel and piper cleaner to clean the a/b. I can do my Paasche VL in under 5 mintues.
Actually, if you "prime" the a/b by shooting Windex for just a second or two before you start painting (you need to check the spread/feed anyway, right?), it makes everything inside slippery. It takes much longer for the a/b to clog, and cleaning is easier when its done. I thin with alcohol and clean with Windex; I use water only for cleaning brushes and doing decals.
Oh, BTW, plain old rubbing alcohol from the drug store is isopropyl, and will work fine. $.89 for several months worth where I am...
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