Enlarge/drill out the styrene part so that the opening had circular shape, put/superglue a sleeve (styrene cylinder?) onto your aluminium barrel tip, assemble the barrel and insert it into your drilled-out styrene piece. If the sleeve is tight enough, it would provide friction fit between the parts so that you could slowly revolve it until it is in desired position.

I'm just confused why Aber bothered making the barrel end specific for a dragon kit when there doesn't seem to be an obvious way to get the alignment correct.

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I'm just confused why Aber bothered making the barrel end specific for a dragon kit when there doesn't seem to be an obvious way to get the alignment correct.

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See, they have two variations in their barrel range: older ones have smooth tip, newer ones are threaded to eliminate the use of CA glue as your barrel and muzzle brake screw together. Some older/smooth-tipped barrels are upgraded to have that, now common, threaded tip. They designate them by adding an 'n' to the set number they have in their catalogue (35-L76n) to denote new generation. Sometimes they also change parts breakdown of a muzzle brake and/or the barrel itself while the other side of it remains unaltered. All in all, they try to achieve the most straightforward assembly&installation process possible. Clearly, they do it in steps as their craftsmanship and equipment become more advanced.
Just a few examples:
https://www.google.com.ua/search?q=aber+tiger+i+gun+barrel+l76n&client=tablet-android-lenovo&prmd=ivmn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjqiLnb_9DYAhXHLFAKHf5EAXkQ_AUIESgB&biw=1024&bih=600

The easiest way ro do it is to take a cocktail stick/toothpick and push it through the muzzle brake holes sideways. Then when aligning the muzzle brake just make sure the cocktail stick is horizontal. Saw that in a youtube video

The easiest way ro do it is to take a cocktail stick/toothpick and push it through the muzzle brake holes sideways. Then when aligning the muzzle brake just make sure the cocktail stick is horizontal. Saw that in a youtube video

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The easiest way ro do it is to take a cocktail stick/toothpick and push it through the muzzle brake holes sideways. Then when aligning the muzzle brake just make sure the cocktail stick is horizontal. Saw that in a youtube video

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Work process in steps:
1. Assemble barrel and breach (without the muzzle brake)

2. Let the glue dry/harden

3. Assemble as much of the rest of the kit as needed to make sure you have a definite position for the breach and gun barrel.

4. Get a straight stick which is sufficiently thick to get a fit which is not loose in the side openings of the muzzle brake. You don't want it so tight as to have to use force to get it into the holes in the side. Test first, before step 6

5. Set the barrel, breach and whatever else that the breach is attached to on a level surface. Basically a tank or anti tank gun in ready to fire position on a horizontal battlefield. "Gefreiter Schmidt, where ze hell is ze muzzle brake!?".

6. Push the muzzle brake onto the barrel, or screw it on if you have one of the threaded ones.

7. Push the stick through the side openings, from the left or from the right doesn't matter.

8. Adjust the muzzle brake until the stick is horizontal. Check that the mountng (tank or gun carriage) is still horizontal.

9. Apply glue to glue the muzzle brake onto the barrel.

If the end of the barrel that goes into the hole in the breach had been circular then the process is to assemble barrel and muzzle brake first.

5. Set the mounting, tank or anti-tank gun carriage on a horizontal surface. See step 5 above.

6. Push the straight stick through the muzzle brake, left to right or right to left

7. Push the barrel into the circular hole in the breach

8. Adjust until stick is horizontal while making sure that the mounting is also level

9. Glue

The stick is used to allow you to "see" the position of the side holes on the muzzle brake while looking into the barrel from the front or "business" end. If the stick is not horizontal it means that the side openings are not level with each other. The length of the stick also "amplifies" any levelling faults and make them easier to see. If the stick looks level you will not be able to see any levelling faults on the bare muzzle brake.
If you are unsure you can measure the distance between the "battlefield" and the ends of the stick or you can put the ends of the stick on blocks of equal height.

The tricky part will be to get the glue into the gap between the barrel and the muzzle brake ...
/ Robin

Don't worry about the threads.
Get the section closest to the breach in position first, before worrying about the other bits.
Is the brass ring behind the muzzle brake fixed to the barrel or can it move/slide a little along the barrel? If it can slide there is no problem. If it is fixed then some "creative thinking" will be needed.

What you could do right now is to screw the parts together and check how the muzzle brake aligns when tightened.
A nut doesn't move very far lengthwise if it is turned 179 degrees, the greatest possible angle needed to align a two sided symmetrical nut on a thread.
Tighten it up and check (using stick as describe before) to check if the muzzle brake is horizontal when compared to the notches in the thick part. If it does there is no problem.
If it is almost there and could need another eighth of a turn then some fine grit sand paper on the back of the muzzle brake might solve the problem.
The other option is to un-tighten the muzzle brake slightly less than half a turn (less than 180 degrees) to get it in the "previous" level position. Check the width of the gap.
The threading looks like a fine thread so the lengthwise movement, thread pitch, for half a turn should be small.
Maybe that gap will be just large enough to pour some CA into. Some of the needed rotation could also be handled by un-tightening the outer from the inner barrel section.
/ Robin

Washer or no washer ....
Life is full of critical decisions

/ Robin