Hello everyone...I am hoping that someone could answer some questions I have on Zimmerit.

I am watching a model on EBay and it includes a sheet of Pro Mods PMC1125 Zimmerit. I googled it and can find no information on this product, has anyone ever heard of or used this product before? Is it resin? Is it any good?

My other questions has to do with Zimmerit for Dragon Stug IV kit #6582 Mid prod.

Seeing that this kit needs zimmerit does anyone have a tip on a sheet that will fit? I saw a video on YouTube that the Eduard late Stug IV zim does not match up to this kit...will the early version of the Eduard zim Stug work on this kit? Is there another option?

Thank you in advance for your help!!!!

Eric;

Hi! There are both several schools-of-thought (or approach) to zimm'ing kits and many options as to materials available.

I've never worked with any of the resin sheet-goods, but have seen good things said about ATAK products, and I expect that resin sheets offer some available opportunities to damage your zim once applied - a big plus in my book as zim often exhibited wear and tear. Resin also gets a nod because it has both good relief and can include within-sheet detail variations much as seen in the real thing.

There are PE zim products. PE is challenging to some to work with, and I am personally convinced that it CANNOT actually provide the correct physical depth and pattern-relief needed for 1/35 scale applications. And damaging your metal zim seems pretty difficult, tome. That said, evidently some do believe in it and find it successful.

I've seen some of the printed paper sheet-goods. They appear to offer similar convenience to resin and PE goods. Are paper zim products thick enough? Maybe. Certainly they CAN be -much more so than PE. Can they be readily and realistically damaged? I don't know.

Older-school folks like me do our zim with one or another paste or putty product. Many swear by modeling putty rolled out thin and applied and sculpted on the kit. I use dry-wall compound. These products can all be damaged and made to be "unique". It takes more time and work, and some experience to get the zim scaled well, but it's pretty satisfying and yiu can get some (IMO) much better zim detail effects like proper spalling and chipping.

Just my 2c-worth!

Bob

I've never heard of Pro Mod, so can't provide any input. I have used the Eduard, ATAK, and Tamiya decals. All are very good. I would favor the ATAK product over the other two, when there is a choice.

This is my Tamiya Stug IV with the Eduard set (35483). Filing of the PE is needed to get a smooth fit on the edges. Otherwise, very easy to apply.


This is my Tamiya Tiger 1, Mid-production with the Tamiya zimmerit stickers. Easy to apply, but need a lot of cleaning up before applying.


This is my Tamiya 1/16 Panzer IV RC build with the ATAK product. Of the three, this was the easiest to use. If you are interested in showing damage, this is also the easiest to replicate of the three.

One of the sheets.


Applied

Bob,

Thank you for you reply...I have seen the putty method used many times and it looks very realistic....but I believe I would be to worried about messing up my model and flushing 40 or 50 dollars down the drain. I am only now getting back into the hobby after about 30 years away, so my skill level is not there yet...maybe I will find a cheap model on Ebay to practice with.

Mark,

Your Stug, Tiger and PZ IV looks awesome...good job! I really wish Tamiya would come out with an updated Stug IV...like they did with the Stug III. I have built a Dragon King Tiger that had the Zimmerit molded in...but man those kits can get expensive.

Personally I have always liked the "CAVALIER" ultra thin resin zimm sets (not sure if they are still available?). Always a perfect fit as they are designed for specific kits rather than being generic and so are easy to fit and place.

Used it many times and always been 100% satisfied!

Gary

Hi Eric, as said Bob this is the best way to obtain a very nice zimmerit, dry wall compound can be easily taken off your model without destructing it in case of a fail. I generally use little screwdrivers to implement the "sculpt" and drywall compound gives you a good working time before drying hard. you can try on any surface before like cardboard or plasti-card before actually doing it on your model

hope this helps

Are you using standard premixed mud or the powdered fast dry type?