So I was determined to make these work as I love the hollowed out guide horns, I mean who can claim that in 1/72? --- I had a nightmare of a time doing it in sections on a test Revell of Germany Tiger I Ausf. E last week, so decided to take a different route on the PZ III Ausf M from Dragon on the 2nd attempt. The model is not finished and is more of a test subject but the pictures tell the method - Please double click on the photos to englarge - I'm not sure how to post them direct view on the post with Flickr. I know the paint on the edges of the track guards wore away from handling - again, test mule:

1. I first used Bob Smith Maxi-Cure with Insta-Set accelerator to join two sections x2, so I was able to get one length of track to start

2. Primed with AK Track Primer, Dark PZ Gray on top for track color, slight dry brush with silver for wear on the shoes

3. Carefully thread the track over the top of the drive sprocket, over the returns & about 1.5 inches past the idler, so that when heated and bent, it will be approx. at the middle of the last roadwheel

4. Use hairdryer at about 12 inches away, HOT temp, but low fan then bend appropriately around the idler and at a tight angle to the rearmost roadwheel... if its still a little stiff, hit it again with the dryer (you can bring it in and out between that distance to increase pliability but KEEP IT MOVING as there is a point when the resin turns into cooked pasta - ask me how I know)

5.Do the same with the much longer overhang on the drive sprocket end

6.Then start cutting off of sprocket overhang end of the you just bent until it meets up with the idler bent end - I make sure to "undercut" and then cut one link at a time as I dryfit the look & lock of he two ends

7. I attempted some track sag by heating a bit then using a tiny flathead to bend some articulation...I'll need to work on that technique

The take away is that you can actually glue two runs together, prime, paint and THEN heat bend and only have to glue at the final joint under the last roadwheel. I utterly failed the first attempt with the Tiger I, but here's to persistence - you can't beat the detail with any other option in 1/72 IMO

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Well done Brian, that is a great result and don't they look the business. Now you have had a success with them you will never want to go back to any other sort of track, I know, I have lots of OKB tracks for all the future projects I have planned. Nice looking tank by the way .

All the best,

Paul

Brian, looks good. I have a set but haven't tried using them yet, so thanks for your notes on this. I'm slightly amazed that you successfully managed to heat and bend them with the paint on without any paint flaking or cracking. My inclination would have been to glue them on first and then paint.

When trying to get the sag, maybe instead of a flat screw driver (is that what you used?) try something like a cottonbud forced between the track guard and the track to push the track down, then give it some heat, then take the bud out when cool - might that work?

Just one thing I noticed, the track is bent slightly wrong at the front Road wheel, and the track bends up a little instead of sagging between that wheel and the sprocket.

By the way Brian, OKB Grigorov posted a link to your post on his Facebook page.

I see that --- nothing a little heat wont fix, but overall, just pleased it didn't turn into a total disaster like the first attempt

Great idea with cotton bud or similar ....

I did actually get a little flaking on the sides but ill touch up and weather to effect/cover haha

Thanks for the comments and suggestions as always.

"Just one thing I noticed, the track is bent slightly wrong at the front Road wheel, and the track bends up a little instead of sagging between that wheel and the sprocket"

Quick little adjustment with some heat but I can get it tighter/looser if need be still

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