I have rarely had to use decal softening agents in the past, but I imagine these will be essential when trying to apply markings to a zimmerit-coated surface (such as the turret and hull of a 1/72-scale Tiger I). Once the vehicle has been base-painted with an appropriate dark yellow, and the markings applied, I will be adding a heavily-worn winter whitewash coat. Even so, the markings will still be visible, so I want to ensure that they retain the painted-on appearance. I have bought a bottle of Humbrol's 'Decal Fix', in the hope that this may be suitable. Any suggestions for the perfect approach?

A good gloss surface for the decals is a must.I'm not sure how strong your decal solution is,but I have used Micro Sol-red bottle,or Solvaset without any special tecniques with great success.

I can't think of any special approach or technique as compared to putting decals over a non-Zimmerit surface. My advise is to be extra patient, don't rush it, as it will surely take more than one application of the solution to get the decal to settle over the Zimmerit surface. Use a pin or edge of a sharp blade to punch holes in areas where air bubbles occur.

I use a cotton bud (Q Tip) dipped in boiling water, shaken off and then QUICKLY rolled over the decal with a zimm finish. The secret is to keep the tip moving as otherwise, you risk lifting the decal on the tip. Practice first! If done properly, it literally melts it into the paint and when it dries out, it is absent any visible carrier film.

It is the best thing short of masking and spraying.

Hope this helps.

Gary

Interesting! Never heard of melting decals before. Any photos of the result? Would love to see it!

Use a good quality decal. Those in Dragon kits are very good. Poor quality AM decals can be thick and don't conform well.

It has been my experience . . .

Work one decal at a time and let it dry completely before moving on to the next one. Prop the model in such a way that the decal in question lies flat. (Horizontal) This way the setting solution can stay in one place and soak into the decal. First blot up the excess water. Then apply the setting solution with a small soft brush. It may take multiple applications.

I use the most aggressive solution I can find. Actually I use lacquer thinner as this guarantees the decal film will soften and settle into the zim. Once the setting solution is applied, do not disturb the decal, the setting solution or the model paint as this might smear the model paint and/or the decal. Allow it all to air dry completely.

I then seal the finished, dried decal with Tamiya matte clear.


For what it is worth please know; this photo was taken just this evening but the model and the decal work is well over fifteen years old. I think that decal is on there to stay!

This trick works really well on wood sided (real wood) models. This for all you model railroaders and structure builders out there.

I am using Tamiya extra thin cement (green cap) in order to soften decals.

White vinegar is your best friend. Most of the softening solutions are based on its active principle. Apply some vinegar on the deisred surface, put the decal on and tap some more vinegar on the surface of the decal. Let dry and repeat the process if you're not satisfied (in case of heavy support film or bubble).

Olivier

Never would have thought to use White Vinegar or the Tamiya glue for that matter. Kool! Would not have thought the vinegar caustic enough???? I always liked using Lacquer Thinner because I KNEW it would attack the decal carrier material. Heck it would peel the paint off the side of the barn if I wanted it to.

Also my Dad was in the auto paint business so we always had it available in the garage.

(Your local hobby shop probably carries small cans of the stuff - mine does.)

I've done similar but using kitchen cloth. not the paper type but the J cloth type with excellent results. Works well with Wingnut wings decals and they are quite thick. As Gary says they seem to melt into the paint work. Hot enough to bear holding works. Too hot and the decal can melt leaving a roughened surface

Again,I have done 6 of the dragon kits with the molded on zimm and never used anything other then Micro-Sol they snug down real nice with no soecial attention.

Yeah same here ! Works fine !