In this threadI will show the build progress with the new Kinetic M3A3 Bradley in 1/35 scale.
I also did the video review of this kit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akSEuwLhc6I
In this album I placed the in-box photos if somebody is interested.
The box art:


I started work with the kit from the wheels. They comes from four five each: the outer and inner rim halves, two rubber tires and pool cap. All plastic parts have four connection points with the sprue so cleaning and sanding them require some time.

The assembled wheels. Details are ok. Sprockets had connection points on the end of tooth so they are easy to cleanup without any damage. Wheels contains the poly caps inside so they could be easily removed for the paint process.

Next I started work with the suspension and return rollers. It also comes together and line up without any problems. Return rollers also fit perfect in their places.

Evening work with the track. They doesn't look very convincing on the sprue but overall work with them was fast and the effect is also good. To make them removable for the painting I do not glued the top section, it's just dryfitted.


I also glued the rear plate with door. I'm very happy how the lower and upper hull fit together. The good fitting between these two parts is important because I can take off the upper hull for the painting and glue these two parts together after paint track and wheels section.

The hull slowly takes a shape.

More soon...

Looking good. I'll be watching this for sure.

liked the video review, can't wait to see how the build goes

Next portion of photos and my thoughts about this kit:
A little bit of progress with the build. I installed the side and front BUSK III armour. On the front plate before the additional armour I made bracing for it.

The ERA armour panels fit well, only on a few places I used a little bit of putty. It was not neccessary but I want to make sure that after primer coat there will be not any visible gaps.

The same on the rear. I used putty just to avoid corrections after primer painting

Next I installed the front lights. They are wll detailed but I decided to add some electric wires to increase a detail level.

When the BUSK III was finished I started to add other details, almost all of them fit in their places without any problems. Only the lifting brackets had too thick positioning pins, so I just cut them off.

The hull assembly process was rather fast, only this step require some time and patience. You need to shave off from the sprue twenty small rivets and glue them on the model. I don't know why the producer moulded them separatelly not on the main upper hull part like the other ones.

There are the "special" separatelly moulded rivets on it's place.

The right side of the hull is not as bussy as the opposite. The big PE mesh parts attract the attention. These parts are really thin and well made.This kit contain only a few PE parts, I do not like espacielly work with them so I'm happy with it.

The hull assembly is finished. I only need to add the front and rear mud guards and periscopes but I paint them separatelly and add after base coat painting.

Work with this kit is a pleasure so far. I'm glad from the detail level in this kit, I hope that the turret will go together as good as the hull.

As I wrote before I leave the upper and lower hull as separate components. It let me easily paint the suspension and tracks.

Looking good so far. In addition to the one new sprue, some of the parts on the other sprues have been reworked as well to make this a very nice kit. It is much better than the Orochi version it is based on and fixes pretty much all of the issues it had.

What version do you plan on making of it? Just so you know, the ERA has not been used operationally with the new T161 tracks. The ERA is only used in combat and was last used in Iraq about 2010. The T161 tracks were fielded about '16 and have not been used on any vehicles in combat, hence, they have not been seen on vehicles mounting ERA.

Also, if anyone plans on leaving the ERA off (more appropriate w/T161 tracks), you should fill the two holes on each front side skirt panel.

While it may be a bit tedious, slicing off the bolt heads gives a better look to them. If they were molded on, they wouldn't have 90 degree sides. (or close to it, due to drafting) Raymond could have molded them that way, with poorer detail, or spent more money to use a more intricate mold to simply have better bolt detail for just a few bolts. In the end he chose to keep production costs down by doing what he did. It's a shame there aren't many more larger bolts for the upper, inner face of the armor. Those are very noticeable in their absence, but can be replicated readily enough with hex rod.

Gino and Robert- thanks for the feedback.
I will paint my model like this:

I know that tracks are different, but I'm not a rivet counter and this vehicle looks really attracive.

I started work with the turret. The quality of all parts is the same as previous- very good.

I mounted gun barrel, it comes as one piece so it's easy to cleanup and look good, in my opinion aftermarket barrel is not neccessary.
I also drilled the coaxial mg barrel.

As you see all plates fit together very well, I used putty only in a few small spots.

You may well find someone who would trade the tracks with you.

I finished the turret construction. Overall it comes together nice but I got the impression that a little bit worse than the hull. The most problematic was the 2 era blocks that do not fit properly, finally I used putty in this area.

I really like the final turret look. It is very busy and well detailed. I don't installed the periscopes, I will do this after painting.
The assembly process is finished, now I will wash all model in water with detergent and apply primer.

Looks pretty good. One mistake Orochi made and Kinetic left is the backup sight that is the tear-drop shaped PE part w/the reticle on it. It should be clear plexiglass, not solid PE.

Hi after small break.

I took Bradley to the International Festival in Bytom last weekend where I used it to test Tamiya LP paints.



They are the results:

I spray black and white paints directly to the plastic and pe parts. They work very well and do not required any primer.



After airbrushing black and white I used brush and white color to highlight details.



I did the same on the wheels.
Tracks are primed with Ammo One Shot and then I covered them Vallejo Track Primer paint.