I just picked up the Dragn Firefly Vc (#6182). It looks good in the box, but I'm wondering if there are any tricky issues with the kit, or problems. Also, are there any glaring accurcay issues? And please, God, someone tell me that there are some aftermarket tracks available that are easier to deal with than the thousands of pieces that comprise the kit tracks!! I'm willing to buy my way out of that problem.

This will be my first model of a Sherman variant in over 10 years, and I'm really looking forward to it. General advice on modeling Shermans and their variants would also be useful and appreciated. Thanks for any replies.

You have the new-tool kit, which Dragon corrected many of the problems from the earlier Firefly VC kit, No. 6121.

Here a review with some tips: http://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/reviews/vehicles/dragon/dr6182.htm

For the tracks, you might want to get some RHPS tracks. They are individual link, but litterally snap together, unlike the Dragon kit tracks.

accurate armour do different styles of semi flexable tracks which are suitable for the firefly,
you can also use the rubber band tracks form the AFV/Academy achillies kits

There seems to be a problem with the hieght of the drive sprocket and the top of the return rollers..things are all supposed to be lined up straight but if you look at the pictures of the finished model on the box you can see this isn't the case ...I'm still trying to figure out how to fix this ..either raising one or lowering the other ...we'll see as we go along.Oh yeah the dragon instructiond forget to mention the back plate on the bogies but it is easy enough to know where they go..

Rick

Hi,

If you want some on-line references for Shermans here - Sherman Tanks - you have some I've collected.

HTH

I'm working on the kit right now, and there are a few problems, none of them terribly severe. The drive sprockets are mounted about 1mm too high. I cut mine off with a small saw, scraped off what was left on the mounting plates, and glued them back in place at what looks like the correct height. The height problem isn't really obvious, but it's annoying if you know what to look for and have a latent case of AMS.
Also, the instructions have the numbers for the mounting plates for the idlers reversed, but this is pretty obvious when you test fit the parts. At least, that's what it seemed to me. I might have reversed them in my mind (wouldn't be the first time) and caused myself some confusion. Keep your eyes peeled all the same.
Finally, according to the plans by Dyer in the November 1991 Finescale Modeler, the gun barrel is about 6mm too long. Again, not a huge problem if you're not too hung up on having everything be absolutely perfect.
All things considered, it would build up into a pretty nice looking Firefly OOB, and only requires a few small changes to be even more accurate.

From what I've read about that new Firefly is that DML showes detail on the backside of the roadwheels,but left the backs of the idler wheels blank

Yep, they did forget to include details for the backs of the idlers. Forgot to mention that earlier. It's odd and kind of careless for DML to forget to include that particular detail after including backs for all of the roadwheels.

OK, I just got the RHPS tracks in the mail. They look like regular, pain-in-the-rear indy tracks to me; are you guys sure these are "clickable?" There are no instructions, so any tips would be appreciated.

Did anyone else have a large gap around the lower portion of the bustle area? I have a massive one that is going to require a fair amount of putty. Also, I found a few things in the instructions just weren't right. Nothing huge it just required me to search for the part and try to figure it out.

Here's how I do them:

Get a TV tray or box top, plus a couple small containers like film cannisters or small cups.
Use sprue nippers or other close-cutting tool to snip the parts off the sprues.
I cut the sprues apart to make handling easier. Put track pads in one can, end connectors in another.
Once they are all snipped, dump a can of pads or end in the boxtop and made a pass or two on each one with a sanding stick to smooth the nub, putting each back in the can as it is finished.
When all the cleaned up parts are ready, start assembly.
Yes, they will click together.
Do them in stretches of six to ten links, then connect the sections to make the final track length.
Test fit to make sure they fit on the model without sag (Sherman tracks have VERY little sag). Make sure they fit the drive sprockets snugly. You should have many extra parts left for spare link sections or replace any parts you might break.
Remove from model and paint.
Put back on model when ready --they should remain pretty flexible if you don't glob the paint on.
Once on the model, touch up paint the areas between the links that show where the track bends around the idlers and drive sprockets.

DO NOT PAINT before assembly -- the thickness of the paint on the parts will keep the parts from fitting properly.

It's not hard; it just takes a little time. Once you have a rhythm it goes pretty fast/ I do most of the work during commercials while watching TV.

Enjoy! I think you'll be happy with the results.

No, merkava8, you are not alone. My kit also had a big step between turret halves that required a decent bit of work to go together smoothly. However, since I was planning on going partially AMS psycho on this thing and redo the welds and add them where they're missing, I didn't worry too much about getting the seam absolutely perfect since the step largely corresponds with where the weld seam on the rear of the turret goes.
It's a nice kit overall, but there are enough mistakes in the instructions and small but noticeable bits left out (if you know what to look for) to get darn annoying.