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Help? Cyber-Hobby (Dragon) JS-2M
kunjuro
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Philippines
Joined: October 27, 2013
KitMaker: 520 posts
Armorama: 488 posts
Posted: Monday, May 14, 2018 - 09:48 PM UTC
Hey folks,

I just started building Dragon's reboxed JS-2M. Minor alterations vs the old kit (height corrected, magic tracks). However, I cannot figure for the life of me how to join the upper and lower hull. Tere is about a 2mm gap at the sides of the hull (which I've read about) but there is also a huge gap at the front of the hull AND the arm suspension. Has anyone built this before? I know that one reviewer at APMS (http://amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=3945) but I didn't see if he encountered the same fit issue that I'm having. Would really appreciate help. Thanks folks.



RobinNilsson
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KITMAKER NETWORK
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Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 15, 2018 - 01:25 AM UTC
Looking at the third image (side view) I get the impression that the extensions on the forward underside of the upper hull should slide in between the sides of the lower hull.
There seems to be a step in the plastic which is parallell to the upper edge of the lower hull.
There is also a semi-circular cut-out which matches the axle mount (idler I think) in that position.
Maybe the thickness needs to be sanded down a little to get it to fit.
The upper hull should also be a little further forward.
/ Robin
MassimoTessitori
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Italy
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Wednesday, May 16, 2018 - 01:53 PM UTC
One should understand if the height is corrected after having filled the gaps with 2 mm plastic strip. But, in this case is the position of the supports of the return rolles right, or will create a huge gap between the tracks and the mudguards?
For what I remember, the bearing wheels were too small of 1 mm in diameter. If this was not corrected, I fear that the visual impact of the heightened kit will be compromised.
I suggest to see if you can find a kit of Zvezda for cheap to make a kitbashing.
m4sherman
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Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
KitMaker: 1,866 posts
Armorama: 1,808 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 17, 2018 - 07:05 PM UTC
After looking at the build review I suspect he did have similar issues. He did a lot of filling on the nose. It's hard to tell after the fact.

Can you move the nose into place and make the rear parts fit? Keep in mind you're working with Dragon fit challenges. It's why I got the Tamiya kit.
MassimoTessitori
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Italy
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Friday, May 18, 2018 - 10:29 AM UTC
I think that one can fit the pieces by removing some material from the anguled part of the sides, the same part that seems that they have have added to correct the height. Of course, the hull would become too low as the original version of the kit.
Jacques
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Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2018 - 09:25 PM UTC
Reference one: http://amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=3945

Reference two: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/improving-dml-s-js-2m-6018-t91737.html

Sounds like no matter what, there is some "Basic Model Skills" need on the kit.
Jacques
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Minnesota, United States
Joined: March 04, 2003
KitMaker: 4,630 posts
Armorama: 4,498 posts
Posted: Saturday, May 19, 2018 - 09:29 PM UTC
Another help reference, but the pictures are all broken links: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/updated-guide-to-fixing-the-dml-js-jsu-height-prob-t68915.html
kunjuro
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Philippines
Joined: October 27, 2013
KitMaker: 520 posts
Armorama: 488 posts
Posted: Sunday, May 20, 2018 - 07:31 PM UTC
Thanks for all your help folks! I've actually managed to talk to Dan Egan who did the build review. He's basically confirmed all your suspicion - there are huge gaps for the kit that I have to fix.

Thanks for the links @Jacques! I admit that I have not really done much of these so called "modelling skilled" and using plasticard. This will be my first tangle with it - probably due to how far modelling technology has come from the 60s. I'm just disappointed in the fact that a 40 USD kit being sold as a new one by Dragon has these issues.
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