Hello again;
I have recently been given a few 1:35 Dragon kits (Nashorn, Ferdinand. Hummel) and of course they all have the dreaded individual link tracks. Some even have multiple pieces to assemble as well. Is there any way to build these without going mad? I have studied instructions and can see no simple way to do this. Can anyone direct to a published document or web site or personal commments to assist. I have tried the local shops and it seems everone replaces them with the metal jobs that cost $50.00 CDN. This seems a little silly to spend more than the kit is worth just for track no matter how much better they look. (Someone will probably tell me to buy the metal track cause I didn't buy the kit in the first place) But I would appreciate any assistance.

Thanks Eh;

ron

Best thing to do a search as their are one or two links posted here on this site that will help you one by Andy and another one can't remember the name but two off hand!





edit actually they are right buy the Friul tracks and get done with it!!

Try here. Making Tracks

This is my first time trying to name a URL, let's see if it works.

EDIT Hey cool, it did

You can also look into Model Kasten tracks. If they make them for your kits. They are not as expensive as the Fruil.

I guess it all boils down to how much your sanity is worth! #:-)

Hi Ron
I've done the DML ferdinand,Elefant, Panther A Late and Panther D so far and the way i do the tracks is as follows.
Tools are Xacto knife or sidecutters, a flat file,a 6"ruler and revell contacta professional.

I cut up to 20 links from the sprue then clean them up with the file. then applying glue to the appropriate spots I put all the links together,finally using the rule to ensure straightness.

Then i put them to one side and cut off another set of links,by the time you've done that and cleaned them up the first lot are ready to be gently bent round the drive sprocket .

I then repeat the process until the whole track is assembled.

I now find it easier to paint the tracks when they are installed rather than a bit at a time.

HTH
Pete

Hi Ron,

I do the same method as Stormbringer... just clean.. work on runs.. use a ruler to keep em lined up.. now and then I also take a metal tool like putty tool.. and use the tool 'handle' to also 'press down' on the run to make sure it's flat..

The important thing is.. to get the 'slow drying' liquid cement.. the stuff I use is the Testors that comes in the Black Triangular bottle with the needle..

The reason is.. your putting the 'run' aside for a few minutes.. this gives the 'run' time to sort of be glue together.. but yet when you go to put it on the tank, it will still be 'flexible to form around sprockets and idlers.. etc... With quick drying glue (like the testors with the brush, or Super Glue) this will not be possible.

once the tracks are on the vehicle.. you just let it dry overnight and then you golden.. I usually do one side on one sitting, then the other side another day..

Good Luck!

charlie

I'll third the idea of working with slow cement, in runs, and cleaning the bits up as you go.

To that I'll add making a foamboard jig, using masking tape, having the last runs join in the middle of the bottom, and leaving the idler unlgued until you get to final position.

Foamboard jig
Get some of the posterboard and foam sandwich board. Use a straight edge to get a .. well.. straight line. and glue a second level onto the base. Set a link in tooth down to get the space, and add a second side. Now you can put links face down and slide them along the channel between the levels to link together.
Plus side is that the model glue will not stick to it. Don't ask me how my first experiment with a jig and sheet styrene went...
A sheet is cheap enough that you can make one jig for panthers, one for PZIV's etc..

Which comes to masking tape.

Now run a lenght of masking tape along the clicked but unglued links, and flip them over.
Now glue w previously mentioned slow glue and set aside for a couple of minutes until glue is partly dry.
now drape the semi-dry taped run across the wheels and VERY IMPORTANT: write onto the tape AND instructions where that run will go.
I had the devils own time trying to sort out my E-100 links for this very reason.

If you leave the last joint in the liddle of the bottom and all else has failed you can cut a link in half and hide the joint with mud..

Lastly, if like some DML kits, the idler is not locked into place, don't glue it until you get to the links all set. NOW glue the idler.

Good luck!
Drop me a PM if you have more Q's

Mike

Just another suggestion for keeping the tracks straight: I bought a couple peices of bass/balsa wood (hobby shop's boat section maybe, mine has a big display of this stuff) probably 1/8" thick and 1" wide. Length doesn't matter. Then get another somewhat sturdier peice, and some "wood pins" (the ones you can use to hold balsa wood together with) Line up a few links (no glue) and then make yourself a jig. Pin the wood in place and then go ahead with gluing, the jig should keep em' straight. For the curved sections (around sprockets and such) just let the links set up in the jig for a bit, make sure they are straight and then bend em around the sprocket before the glue sets completely (note I use regular plastic cement on indies) Hope it helps!

Thanks for all the tips. I've got a Flakpanther Coelian in the 'to be done' pile and was considering Valium as an esential aid.

Thanks for all the info.
I met a fellow modeler at a shop and shared the suggestions with him and he agrees with all that slow glue and patience is the way to go.
I'm going to give it a try this week.

Thanks again;

ron

Hey, Ron,
Nice avatar, BTW.
Indeed, patience is called for in dealing with the Dragon/DML indy links. I am presently working on the DML Firefly (on and off).
Just make sure all links are straight and let each run set up for about 15 mins. When you put them over the drive or idler wheels I usually let everything dry before taking the sections off. Good luck.