It begs the question of how many of these and their variants one can justify to oneself...

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It begs the question of how many of these and their variants one can justify to oneself...

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The simple answer is ALL of them.

the track mounts are there, but have not been done properly - they should be U's with retaining pins - the same as the upright ones holding the tow cables in place at the rear of the engine deck - the U shaped things they have supplied don't stick out far enough, and thus don't have retaining pins to hold them on - you can see the end one on this pic

the track mounts are there, but have not been done properly - they should be U's with retaining pins - the same as the upright ones holding the tow cables in place at the rear of the engine deck - the U shaped things they have supplied don't stick out far enough, and thus don't have retaining pins to hold them on - you can see the end one on this pic

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the track mounts are there, but have not been done properly - they should be U's with retaining pins - the same as the upright ones holding the tow cables in place at the rear of the engine deck - the U shaped things they have supplied don't stick out far enough, and thus don't have retaining pins to hold them on - you can see the end one on this pic

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My error, since you did not specify the pins in your first post, I did not know that is what you are annoyed about. I'll probably make one of the U fittings, and cast the rest, when I get to my Panther.

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the track mounts are there, but have not been done properly - they should be U's with retaining pins - the same as the upright ones holding the tow cables in place at the rear of the engine deck - the U shaped things they have supplied don't stick out far enough, and thus don't have retaining pins to hold them on - you can see the end one on this pic

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My error, since you did not specify the pins in your first post, I did not know that is what you are annoyed about. I'll probably make one of the U fittings, and cast the rest, when I get to my Panther.

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I am almost 100% certain that it will be easier to make the U's from metal strips. Getting usable results from such narrow molds is difficult. If you only make one master you will have to get 7 usable castings from one single mold which means mixing and pouring 7 times.

Make a width gage which has the same thickness, brass or aluminum sheet should work, as the inside width of the gap in the U and fold annealed brass strips around it. Drill a hole in the gauge first with a scribed line marking the centre of the hole. Drill the holes in the U while it is still on the gauge. Clamp, bend, drill, cut to size. It will be ready before the silicone for the mold has cured.
Glue or solder the U's to a brass strip.
/ Robin

,,,, Truth is, I don't like working with metal.

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,,,, Truth is, I don't like working with metal.

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Can't argue with that
Metal can be tricky as well as a lot more forgiving than plastic in some applications ...

When I did this job on my Coelian I removed the U's from the strip provided in the kit, glued the strip to the hull, drilled a hole in the end of a styrene strip, rounded the corners slightly, cut off the correct length and glued these short stumps to the edges of the strip already on the hull. This way the stump got glued into a corner which strenghtens the joint a little.
/ Robin