_GOTOBOTTOM
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Hosted by Darren Baker, Mario Matijasic
Longer dry time glue
Brianlee
Visit this Community
United States
Joined: December 17, 2017
KitMaker: 199 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 12:29 PM UTC
Looking forsomething like the Tamiya extra thin I use 99% ofthe time, but is there a glue that is not overly damaging to the styrene but has a slightly lknger dry time for situations where I need some time to get it just right?

I dont like how regular white label tamiya tends to melt when accidentally overapplied
tangodown
#494
Visit this Community
New Brunswick, Canada
Joined: August 08, 2018
KitMaker: 213 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 12:34 PM UTC
Not as thin as Tamiya but maybe 5 minute epoxy? Im not aware of a super thin glue with an extended dry time.
Belt_Fed
Visit this Community
New Jersey, United States
Joined: February 02, 2008
KitMaker: 1,388 posts
Armorama: 1,325 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 01:02 PM UTC
https://www.michtoy.com/item-VMS-CM02-SL-VMS_Styrene_Cement_SLOW.html
nsjohn
Visit this Community
Scotland, United Kingdom
Joined: July 26, 2018
KitMaker: 279 posts
Armorama: 265 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 01:26 PM UTC
Probably not everyone's taste, but my 2 "go to glues" are Tamiya extra thin and Revell Contacta Professional.
Vicious
Visit this Community
Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 02:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Probably not everyone's taste, but my 2 "go to glues" are Tamiya extra thin and Revell Contacta Professional.


Same same with the addition of the good old MEK
Ramanathan
#477
Visit this Community
Pest, Hungary
Joined: March 21, 2007
KitMaker: 133 posts
Armorama: 131 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 07:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Probably not everyone's taste, but my 2 "go to glues" are Tamiya extra thin and Revell Contacta Professional.


Hi,
same here... Revell Contacta (the one with the needle applicator) is my selection for example Dragon's magic tracks: it sets slowly enough to glue and bend to shape a longer part of a track.
cheers,
Zsolt
BogiBg
Visit this Community
Västra Götaland, Sweden
Joined: May 29, 2018
KitMaker: 397 posts
Armorama: 388 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 07:17 PM UTC
I am making my own glue. It's a paint thinner mixed with silicone remover. Speed and aggressiveness are controlled by amount of silicone remover. I use it as a decal solution, too. It glues painted parts, I use it even for gluing metal parts to plastic.
BogiBg
Visit this Community
Västra Götaland, Sweden
Joined: May 29, 2018
KitMaker: 397 posts
Armorama: 388 posts
Posted: Monday, October 08, 2018 - 08:48 PM UTC
Best thing about home made glue - you are never off...

RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
Visit this Community
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 12:07 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looking forsomething like the Tamiya extra thin I use 99% ofthe time, but is there a glue that is not overly damaging to the styrene but has a slightly lknger dry time for situations where I need some time to get it just right?

I dont like how regular white label tamiya tends to melt when accidentally overapplied


Maybe consider a new working method?
For styrene to styrene I use a pure solvent, ethyl acetate. This can be applied with capillary action so I can spend as much time as I want to get the parts lined up correctly and then apply a small amount using a small brush (00 or smaller) to the edge of the joint between the surfaces. The solvent is drawn in by capillary action, softens the plastic and then evaporates so the styrene surfaces can bind together.

When gluing resin or metal to styrene I sometimes glue a thin (.005) sheet/shim of styrene to the resin part with CA or epoxy, trim the edges when it has cured and then I glue styrene to styrene.
When the surface to glue is too small or just an edge then I use CA.

The trick is to make sure that the parts fit, or can be pressed to a good fit, before messing around with glue/solvent.

/ Robin
Brianlee
Visit this Community
United States
Joined: December 17, 2017
KitMaker: 199 posts
Armorama: 198 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 08:22 AM UTC
Great suggestions guys --- neat idea Robin about using a thin piece of styrene on resin parts!

I actually was referring to having some time to move around small styrene parts like that have no keyed in spot (i.e. the tiny tow hooks in front of the Masterbox 1/72 MKIII or IV, if anyone has built one)

Also, to threadjack my own thread , I always wished there was a fine sanding instrument like those micro brush applicator sticks in green, purple, blue and white - I always find myself trying to get into tiny areas to sand but at same time, try to avoid a rivet or panel line of rivets. Is there anything SUPER small? I try to cut tiny slivers off larger sanding sticks sometimes …..
RobinNilsson
Staff MemberTOS Moderator
KITMAKER NETWORK
Visit this Community
Stockholm, Sweden
Joined: November 29, 2006
KitMaker: 6,693 posts
Armorama: 5,562 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 08:38 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Great suggestions guys --- neat idea Robin about using a thin piece of styrene on resin parts!

I actually was referring to having some time to move around small styrene parts like that have no keyed in spot (i.e. the tiny tow hooks in front of the Masterbox 1/72 MKIII or IV, if anyone has built one)

Also, to threadjack my own thread , I always wished there was a fine sanding instrument like those micro brush applicator sticks in green, purple, blue and white - I always find myself trying to get into tiny areas to sand but at same time, try to avoid a rivet or panel line of rivets. Is there anything SUPER small? I try to cut tiny slivers off larger sanding sticks sometimes …..

Cut-off bits of sprue, preferably at an angle (try different angles for different jobs and to suit you way of working) Glue "sand"-paper of desired grit to the cut off ends.
A sprue-frame usually contains a few different thicknesses of sprue. You can also experiment with slightly curved ends.
The angles of the sprue frames can also be used to be able to get into difficult corners.

Sometimes brutality is actually the best way, stop trying to sand around the rivets and bolt heads. Sand the surface smooth and replace with new rivets and bold heads.
Anything stick shaped that can be glued and is freely available will do the job. Sprues are available when building a model. You can also save the best bits from the sprues for future needs


The gluing problem. The solvent I use actually takes a few seconds to evaporate so there is a small time slot for adjusting the part. Holding the part in the correct position with a tweezer and then the other hand can apply the solvent.
I am right handed so I would usually hold the part with my right hand to be able to hold it still in the correct position and then the left hand applies the solvent.
/ Robin
Vicious
Visit this Community
Queensland, Australia
Joined: September 04, 2015
KitMaker: 1,517 posts
Armorama: 1,109 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 09:20 AM UTC
Yesterday since luck is blind but the bad luck sees us very well I knocked over the bottle of MEK on the cutting-mat .... .... luckily I managed to remove the sprue and the pieces already cut in time before the wave reach them... the cutting-mat was not so lucky and it dissolved in a few seconds under my eyes, what a mess, i was also little bit High by the fumes...:-)--...and all happened when I was reading this tread ...

for sanding you can find also stuff like that...

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_120&products_id=1513

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_120&products_id=7039

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_120&products_id=7504

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?cPath=21_120&products_id=1260

https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/polishing-swab-2.25-variety_pack.html

http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/index.php?cPath=21_120
Doodeck
Visit this Community
Croatia Hrvatska
Joined: August 15, 2014
KitMaker: 155 posts
Armorama: 154 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 09:54 AM UTC
Look for Mr Hobby's Mr Cement Limonene glue. Same bottle like Tamiya extra thin, fine tip brush. Great stuff.
varanusk
Staff MemberManaging Editor
ARMORAMA
Visit this Community
Santa Cruz de Tenerife, Spain / España
Joined: July 04, 2013
KitMaker: 1,288 posts
Armorama: 942 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 09, 2018 - 12:14 PM UTC
Another fan of Revell Contacta here. Although it may leave marks if applied out of the contact area, it is not so liquid to spread uncontrolably and allows time to carefully position the parts.

My choice for building tracks, without a doubt.

I use often MEK as well for the rest of the model
seanmcandrews
Visit this Community
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: May 09, 2009
KitMaker: 561 posts
Armorama: 553 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 - 01:33 AM UTC

"Also, to threadjack my own thread , I always wished there was a fine sanding instrument like those micro brush applicator sticks in green, purple, blue and white - I always find myself trying to get into tiny areas to sand but at same time, try to avoid a rivet or panel line of rivets. Is there anything SUPER small? I try to cut tiny slivers off larger sanding sticks sometimes ….."


Again, maybe reconsider your work method. Rather than trying to fabricate a tool to sand down a small spot try scraping the area smooth with the tip of your modelling knife.

Sean
tread_geek
Visit this Community
Ontario, Canada
Joined: March 23, 2008
KitMaker: 2,847 posts
Armorama: 2,667 posts
Posted: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 - 02:45 AM UTC
As an aficionado of Braille Scale I totally relate to needing to position/relocate extremely small parts when/while gluing. My "go to" solution has always been the careful application of Testors Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. IT is essentially a "tube glue" that comes in a container with a long pointed needle-like spout. When dry it is quite strong, tacky to hold a part in position after placement but gives you some working time to fine tune its positioning.

For smoothing small areas I rely on the following:

Needle-1 by Jan Etal, on Flickr

Meedle-2 by Jan Etal, on Flickr

The above are sold online by Flex-i-file at:

https://www.flex-i-file.com/alpha/plastic-sanding-needles.php

I an not affiliated with the company, just a happy customer.

Cheers,
--Jan
 _GOTOTOP