Did you do something different this time, you think?

Hi, Jeff.

I don't see why not! I've never tried with TCP paint over acrylics but I constantly use solvent base polyurethane over acrylics, diluted with the same MLT. No issue whatsoever!

I'm on a reverse course from acrylics now. I try to move away from enamels but I was growing more and more disappointed with acrylics and I keep now only the main coat in acrylics because they are easier to mix and tweak. Anything else (primer, undercoat, finishing coat are lacquers, enamels and / or polyurethanes). TCP seems to be some sort of intermediate solution: acrylic suspension and strong solvents. The practice must confirm if they inherit the best of both worlds or else

Gabriel

Strange deal , was a big thing a few years back to get away from solvent based paint, now heading back to it.I do like Tamiya paint, have a ton of their colors in multiple jars.
And been adding some of Mig's, and of cause the most I have is Vallejo , and now AK interactive.

As long as covers well, and can stand oils washes, and not leave the tide marks all is well.

I have Tamiya paints that remained undisturbed in their bottles for five years now. Either using IPA or X20A I couldn't get a proper uniform spray pattern from them (It could be my climate - I don't know). For brushing they don't work really well as they get sticky and drag, leaving marks. I've made friends with Tamiya acrylics only with the advent of MLT - and yes! - they do work like a charm. But please note is almost the same like TCP in this case. Basically they are acrylic lacquers (!).
Another brand I tried and used consistently is Vallejo. They spray a wonder when they are fresh but (my climate again?) they have a tendency to develop gummy strings and again and again I end up doing deep a/b cleaning in the least appropriate moments . They are brushing very well though, straight from the bottle and this is a very good point.

From a professional painter friend I went in contact with Liquitex acrylics (resin reinforced) and I never looked back. The only drawback is that they come in painter's shades, not in military standard so I have to mix them myself (which I like nonetheless). They can be thinned with anything from water to lacquer thinner but the best results I've obtained with X20A.

I have a large supply of craft acrylics (cheapies like Homefront, Apple Barrel and such). They have mostly a weak pigment but a tremendous shelf life for not being "enhanced". My oldest bottle is 7 ears old and still going strong!

On the other hand, I'm having a love affair with Rust-oleum and Krylon enamels that spray fantastic, especially when diluted with lacquer thinner or MLT. The only bad thing is the long curing time and the fact that they cannot take oil washes without an intermediate acrylic coat, and I am usually avoid them when I do the main coat to save time - I know, I'm a cheater!

Gabriel

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I have Tamiya paints that remained undisturbed in their bottles for five years now. Either using IPA or X20A I couldn't get a proper uniform spray pattern from them (It could be my climate - I don't know). For brushing they don't work really well as they get sticky and drag, leaving marks. I've made friends with Tamiya acrylics only with the advent of MLT - and yes! - they do work like a charm. But please note is almost the same like TCP in this case. Basically they are acrylic lacquers (!).
Another brand I tried and used consistently is Vallejo. They spray a wonder when they are fresh but (my climate again?) they have a tendency to develop gummy strings and again and again I end up doing deep a/b cleaning in the least appropriate moments . They are brushing very well though, straight from the bottle and this is a very good point.

From a professional painter friend I went in contact with Liquitex acrylics (resin reinforced) and I never looked back. The only drawback is that they come in painter's shades, not in military standard so I have to mix them myself (which I like nonetheless). They can be thinned with anything from water to lacquer thinner but the best results I've obtained with X20A.

I have a large supply of craft acrylics (cheapies like Homefront, Apple Barrel and such). They have mostly a weak pigment but a tremendous shelf life for not being "enhanced". My oldest bottle is 7 ears old and still going strong!

On the other hand, I'm having a love affair with Rust-oleum and Krylon enamels that spray fantastic, especially when diluted with lacquer thinner or MLT. The only bad thing is the long curing time and the fact that they cannot take oil washes without an intermediate acrylic coat, and I am usually avoid them when I do the main coat to save time - I know, I'm a cheater!

Gabriel

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Because I imagine your climate is very similar to mine, tropical and directly on the sea, I am very satisfied with the Acrylic Mission Models and with their Thinner + Poly system, they are the only water based Acrylics that do not give me problems, both in the dry season, here it does not rain seriously from....I do not even remember anymore, 4 months I think ... and they work the same way during the rainy season when the heat and humidity reach levels to make you grow mushrooms under your armpits...

G'day all

No, not summer yet here in Oz, still spring for another month or so. However, temperature today is set to reach 35C (95F) - I'm not looking forward to summer.

As for AK Real Colours - I won a set of four shades of Dunkelgelb at our club meeting a few months ago and have been trying them out. I used isopropyl alcohol (buy it at Bunnings) to thin approximately 3:1 and it works very well. I clean the airbrush with Medea Airbrush Cleaner and have had no problems.

Regards

Rob