Hello to all a new assembly with a Chinese model ZTZ96A HobbyBoss, it is a model of good quality on all aspects. The packaging is very correct, there is nothing wrong. It's a montage from on the box, the only complaint I would make is the lack of figurine, which is a plus with the armor.
Hosted by Darren Baker
ZTZ96A
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 05:55 AM UTC
MassimoTessitori
Italy
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Tuesday, November 06, 2018 - 08:29 AM UTC
Hi,
I've built the early version of this tank and I was satisfied enough.
Unfortunately nearly all Chinese kits lack of crew. I suggest to buy the box of PLA tankers of Meng.
For the building of my ZTZ96 I had some minor difficulties:
-the piping of the rear cylindric tanks can't be glued, so it is good to provide long pins, eventually drilling the pieces to fit them;
-the details of the inner face of the hatches are somewhat flat;
- the protections of the lights are difficult to fit, and the lenses are not trasparent;
- the side skirts are too regular, one can thin them and make them a bit undulated as visible on photos of the real thing;
- the alignment of the sprocket, road wheels and return roller has to be checked and eventually a bit corrected, because link-to-link tracks are unforgiving, in general.
Apart for those minor things, I was satisfied with the model, and I bought two more boxes for a low price: a ZTZ-96A as that reviewed here, and another with the idea of making a kitbashing to obtain a ZTZ-88.
I've built the early version of this tank and I was satisfied enough.
Unfortunately nearly all Chinese kits lack of crew. I suggest to buy the box of PLA tankers of Meng.
For the building of my ZTZ96 I had some minor difficulties:
-the piping of the rear cylindric tanks can't be glued, so it is good to provide long pins, eventually drilling the pieces to fit them;
-the details of the inner face of the hatches are somewhat flat;
- the protections of the lights are difficult to fit, and the lenses are not trasparent;
- the side skirts are too regular, one can thin them and make them a bit undulated as visible on photos of the real thing;
- the alignment of the sprocket, road wheels and return roller has to be checked and eventually a bit corrected, because link-to-link tracks are unforgiving, in general.
Apart for those minor things, I was satisfied with the model, and I bought two more boxes for a low price: a ZTZ-96A as that reviewed here, and another with the idea of making a kitbashing to obtain a ZTZ-88.
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 08, 2018 - 02:21 AM UTC
GTDeath13
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
Armorama: 919 posts
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
Armorama: 919 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 08, 2018 - 02:33 AM UTC
Tuned in and watching. Teh PLA subjects from HobbyBoss are interesting, except the camo, which I personnaly do not like.
Thanks fro the heads up Massimo.
Thanks fro the heads up Massimo.
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Thursday, November 08, 2018 - 03:25 AM UTC
MassimoTessitori
Italy
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Saturday, November 10, 2018 - 12:08 AM UTC
Hi, about the pixel camouflage, I suggest to check on photos to see if the road wheels are of the same type.
Late production type 96s have lightened wheels with oval holes, as on the kit of Meng.
Late production type 96s have lightened wheels with oval holes, as on the kit of Meng.
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Sunday, November 11, 2018 - 11:48 AM UTC
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 06:13 AM UTC
GTDeath13
Attica, Greece / Ελλάδα
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
Armorama: 919 posts
Joined: June 12, 2015
KitMaker: 921 posts
Armorama: 919 posts
Posted: Monday, November 26, 2018 - 09:28 AM UTC
Nice clean work!!!
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Wednesday, November 28, 2018 - 06:08 AM UTC
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 12:37 AM UTC
I modified the cables because the one supplied in the box is too thick
At the level of the painting I tested two methods to make the pixel,the first
and the second
personally I prefer the first but the second requires a lot of editing because I did not protect and the disadvantage stencil is metallic.
What forced me to do the touch ups with a brush.
Resin fires are installed
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Monday, December 03, 2018 - 01:12 PM UTC
The continuation with a finished painting but I invite you to read the assembly of the diorama on:
https://sampieromodels.blogspot.com/2018/09/type-96a.html
MassimoTessitori
Italy
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Joined: March 14, 2013
KitMaker: 278 posts
Armorama: 278 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 08:07 AM UTC
Hi,
the overall effect is very impressive. It is a beautiful model and base. I like the trasparent lights too.
About the masking: I've made a similar work on a ZTZ-99 of HB.
I started cutting the shapes on size, put them over areas made light green by airbrush, and masked.
Then the brown, and masked it again without removing previous masks.
Then the black-green, and mask.
Then, I sprayed all the medium green background and, at the end, I removed all the masks.
Some correction was necessary, always by mask and air brush.
I've seen that it is easier to put a big piece of masking tape on a cutting plate, make long vertical and horizontal cuts to obtain a lot of assorted squares or rectangles, and then put them on the surface to mask, creating the shapes by a partial overposition of the squares.
It is less accurate in size than cutting masks to shape, but the risk of oblique contours is lower.
the overall effect is very impressive. It is a beautiful model and base. I like the trasparent lights too.
About the masking: I've made a similar work on a ZTZ-99 of HB.
I started cutting the shapes on size, put them over areas made light green by airbrush, and masked.
Then the brown, and masked it again without removing previous masks.
Then the black-green, and mask.
Then, I sprayed all the medium green background and, at the end, I removed all the masks.
Some correction was necessary, always by mask and air brush.
I've seen that it is easier to put a big piece of masking tape on a cutting plate, make long vertical and horizontal cuts to obtain a lot of assorted squares or rectangles, and then put them on the surface to mask, creating the shapes by a partial overposition of the squares.
It is less accurate in size than cutting masks to shape, but the risk of oblique contours is lower.
sampiero
Cote-d`Or, France
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Joined: January 14, 2008
KitMaker: 257 posts
Armorama: 250 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 01:21 PM UTC
thank you for the information, I would try this method on an old model because I have the project to do another and I must find the least restrictive method if we can say! Only the result counts.
firstcircle
England - South East, United Kingdom
Joined: November 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,249 posts
Armorama: 2,007 posts
Joined: November 19, 2008
KitMaker: 2,249 posts
Armorama: 2,007 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 07:08 PM UTC
Quoted Text
Hi,
the overall effect is very impressive. It is a beautiful model and base. I like the trasparent lights too.
About the masking: I've made a similar work on a ZTZ-99 of HB.
I started cutting the shapes on size, put them over areas made light green by airbrush, and masked.
Then the brown, and masked it again without removing previous masks.
Then the black-green, and mask.
Then, I sprayed all the medium green background and, at the end, I removed all the masks.
Some correction was necessary, always by mask and air brush.
I've seen that it is easier to put a big piece of masking tape on a cutting plate, make long vertical and horizontal cuts to obtain a lot of assorted squares or rectangles, and then put them on the surface to mask, creating the shapes by a partial overposition of the squares.
It is less accurate in size than cutting masks to shape, but the risk of oblique contours is lower.
I agree with all of the above. That is the method I used on my Meng egg tank version of this. The metal stencil looks faster, but more difficult to use. The lights do look great, and overall the result looks good.