Greetings all

Very interesting thread, however, nobody (at least that I noticed) has voiced one obvious point. That is, why are we building models? To enjoy ourselves and keep usefully (yes, I know wives will disagree!) occupied, so if the kit takes twice as long we should get twice the enjoyment out of it. I say this having built three Takom King Tigers, two Takom Panther As and one Takom Bergepanther.


As for the cost, one Takom with interior is still cheaper than a recent release DML kit without interior, and so far, I have yet to find any mistakes in the Takom instructions.


Regards


Rob

Hard to argue that point. I bought nearly all of my Dragon kits during their 50% sales, but most of the good kits are gone now and the most recent kits are at the higher MSRP.

I am qualified to discuss the Tiger E only, and Takom have not yet released their Tiger E kits.

But I did notice something in their Late Panther A. They don't have a different hull interior for the "command" version.

I don't know if you'd call that a "mistake in the instructions".

David

I've done the Tamiya M2 Bradley and HB AAVP-7A1 w/EEAK, both with interiors, because the hatches & rear doors can be left open to see all the interior.

I've also done partial interiors where they will be visible, but your model your call.

I got Takom panther as well, and instructions is the weakest part of their offering. It is riddled with all sorts of mistakes, mixed part numbers, wrong part choice for some options (like extended antenna with extension tubes still attached to the hull). They arent VERY bad, but in terms of mistakes they are in same league like Dragon (there might be different mistake count from kit to kit). Anyway, minor, or swapped number mistakes do happen (only ones that do NOTHING dont do mistakes), and those are easy to avoid by studying instructions. Paint guide is different story. In Takom panther, paint guide is worst part of weak instructions, just like wrong colors in Meng King Tiger, RFM Sturmtiger and so on

Forgot to write about this. in Takom 2100 kit (kit nr 2099 as well), there are differences in turret. Command version has additional radio equipment, coax MG is removed, there is no trash bin (sorry, it looks like one, i havent figured out function of this bucket like part yet) on turret floor, plus some electric boxes to feed radio. There are no differences in hull, other than external features to mount antennas, but those arent complete: there is no mount for antenna extension provided.
I cannot state yet, if all of the features are correct tho. I will check those soon, as i will start building one. I understand there are LOTS of omissions, like wires and other small features. But same story with exterior. I can live with that, especially in 35 scale.

Yes, I'm aware that they modelled the radio in the turret, and other items in there. It's their hull that wasn't adapted.

And I believe that there's a reason for this. There exist photos from inside a Command Panther turret (see Spielberger) but not from the hull.

Which reinforces what I said earlier.

David

All these kits today have hatches that open. So what if there isn't something behind the hatches-- you'll get slammed at competitions with open hatches and nothing inside, sometimes even engine grates with nothing underneath get marked down.

What about at least an engine in the kit? Or as an AM add-on like Meng's interior for its M3A3 Bradley?

Transmission and driver seats, gun breech and turret seats. If I look through a hatch what meets the eye? I don't need every little thing, just guts for open hatches.

Academy is to be commended for their Stuart and Lee for that. Big honking hatches and a lot of the stuff inside. Recent Zvezda kits have the same deal. A basic turret interior so the hatches can be open the way tank hatches are the great majority of the time. Nothing I hate more than a build of a buttoned up tank with all the periscopes closed that is supposedly in action. The only time I ever saw a tank buttoned up was NBC drill and parked with no one around.

All I want is just enough for what I would see through an open hatch. Driver's seats would be nice to pose driver figures on rather than those torso busts that any more than a casual glance tells you it's just a head and shoulders.

And those of you building those beautiful full interiors, don't forget rags. All that grease and grime? Gotta have rags. Forget your hands, you want your weapons and tools wiped down.

As an old tanker and armored cavalry veteran, here’s my take on interiors. I like them, and believe “basic” interiors should be included. The reason I feel this way is because it’s simply unrealistic to display a tank with figures unless the hatches are open. If a TC has more than his head popped out of the turret, the driver(s) and loader and their interior positions will also likely be visible. One of my pet peeves at shows is the unrealistic display of a TC fully standing in the hatch smiling away with all the other hatches buttoned up— it simply does not happen that way for real. If a tank crew is not under fire, they will want all the visibility (and air) they can get, and nobody uses periscopes when they don’t have too. So if you display figures on your tank with hatches closed, or if you display the drivers hatches closed with the TC fully exposed ( the exception would be a vehicle under fire with the TC barely showing his eyes) you really need to get those hatches open. Of course the other exception is you are displaying the tank in combat assault or parked on the hardstand, two instances where you’d find everything buttoned up. Anything else requires at least a partial interior.
VR, Russ

I like building parts heavy kits so having interior detail is something i like. One way i look at it is that I have a much better understanding of just what is in the real tank by building the interior. It's like building a Zoukei-Mura plane kit, a lot of the detail won't be seen, and some may see it as a waste of time, but it give me a better understanding of what's going on inside. As far as accuracy goes, let's face it, all kits have some accuracy issues on the outside anyway, so some on the inside should be expected. I've built the RFM M1A2 and have started the RFM Panther.To be fair the hull and engine compartment detail on the M1 is basic, the turret is better. Not a lot of the detail can be seen through the hatches, but the fact fact there is an interior really sets the kit off from rest of my collection. To me it just looks cool. As far as the "garbage can" in the Panthers turret, it was there to collect the spent shell casings from the coax MG.

wait---yet?

Is it really that surprising?

David

It's all fairly interesting, if mostly a continued re-hash of an oft-visited topic! I'm sure that some posting here are old enough ( ) to have built back when kits simply lacked interiors - it was button her up or scratch. Your choice. And info and guidance weren't just a few clicks away. In the 70's, that huge Tamiya Tiger I in 1/24 scale, IIRC, was a stunning exception to the common condition. I built it. Worries about real accuracy? NO. How would most builders, or other viewers, for that matter, ever know? Fun? You BET! As Rob said above, that's a reason we are in this hobby. (Rob; forgive me if I have to poke at the "keeping usefully busy" part.... I'm retired and, alas, have even less time to model! ).

Today, we all have oodles of choices - among them, many kits with some-to-lots of interior bits. NOBODY has a gun to their head demanding that you buy a kit with interior, and certes not that you must build any or all of that interior even if you bought one. It's an option waiting for you to exercise it - or not. tio

IMHO, it's all GOOD. It's CHOICE, and it's opportunity to get lots of modeling pleasure out of your modeling money. But perhaps folks should also keep in mind the "accuracy" questions... Although there is now a LOT more information out there and easier for many to get, at the end of your modeling day/week/month... you maybe should think objectively and realistically about kits and interiors....

1) NONE of them are actually "accurate", if one means by accuracy that all the details are correct in size, shape, location, and with respect to versions, usage, and time. Some are arguably closer or better then are others. Many will seek and apply SOME info that may improve "accuracy" in some detail. NOBODY, bar maybe the most obsessed and truly-informed, will actually achieve TOTAL accuracy.

2) Keep in mind for whom are you building this kit, and WHY? For your own enjoyment (us hobbyists)? Maybe for shows and for the other viewers? For contracts and for museums? Lots of us build for our own pleasure and to fill our own shelves - some do "better" then others; many are happy with how they do, and some seek constant improvement for their own satisfaction. But the effort is for ourselves. Those building to show others - at shows, etc., or parading visitors down their private halls of fame - should bear in mind that the VIEWERS probably know little about what constitutes "true accuracy" in the displayed kit. The show guests and judges - almost NEVER know much of this. Doesn't mean that YOU shouldn't seek to build whatever level of accuracy YOU want to achieve - but don't expect that anyone else actually can "technically" appreciate that attention to detail-faithfulness. Viewers are much more likely to appreciate the quality of your work then they are its actual "accuracy". I LOVE those obsessed enough to try to make "correct rivet-sizes" and seek to get the "right colors". But I really much more like the QUALITY and refinement of the build then the claimed "accuracy". Short of having a micrometer and a spec-sheet in hand, a large book of detailed photos, and an official color-chip (whatever that might be and wherever did it come from ) to match against in the "correct light"... I'm in no position to say "Yay" or "Nay" as to the claimed "accuracy"! I can, however, tell GOOD and skillful modeling when I see it.

Friends: This is Your HOBBY. rejoice in having ever more CHOICES and OPTIONS as to what you might do in it! This is a Platinum Age for plastic modelers. You can now prop those hatches open and cut away sides and lift off tops and wow yourselves, your friends and family, and other viewers, as you wish! While I personally revel in having the OPTIONS for building interior stuff (and I do some of this), I'm also happy to build it to where it meets MY level of "accuracy" (and much more important to me, INTEREST!). I regard the effort as more bang for my model money. And I love knowing that there actually are things - bits and pieces, stuff - inside that hull. I sometimes show (and sometimes win a bauble for it), but I build for ME. It's my HOBBY. Not my LIFE!

PS: Current "interior" kits on my rack... "Achzarit late", AEC mks 1, 2, 3, Humber mk. II, Pz. 1F, FlaKpanzer 38(t), "DANA", AUF-1, among others. I'm dreaming of adding a Meng BergePanther and maybe a MRAP soon... Will I build all the interiors? Good Question! I'll have to eventually decide as I get there!

Model on, enjoy the OPTIONS, and have FUN! Bob

Vehicles interior is always more complex than the exterior, so errors is inevitable, even in sport car or boat modelling. Therefore I'm more open and tolerant about the details. Though, when I think about full interior, I want it, even with lack of detail, to have all the main part. It's one of the reason I didn't pick the Miniart due to the lack of the transmission.

About a recommendation, I would say the Renault FT tank with interior from Meng. It's cheap, small, easy, full engine and transmission and detailed enough.

Though, I'm a student, I have my RFM Tiger half done on table for several months now, which is silly. That's the other reason I don't buy the Miniart one.

Yes Bob, you're forgiven, I know exactly what you mean. I'm retired too, and frequently manage to go a full day without visiting the model bench until after dinner. What I can't figure out since I retired is how I ever found time to go to work!

Regards

Rob

I have done a handful of them and I still a few in my stash.They are okay,I usually leave the doors and hatches open when I do them.

I have the AFV Club 113,a Dragon Maultier Ambulance,and AFV Clubs Rommels Mammoth which I do look forward to doing.

Personally, if I can choose between 2 identical kits with or without interior I always go on the interior one, I like it and make me feel better... ...,i feel what I did is really complete, then as in many cases you will see little or nothing at all but I do not care because I know 'that's there' and since 90% of the time the observer of my model is me, my self and I, so even if I do not see them I know they are there...