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Shaping styrene ammo belts
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americanpanzer
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 05:52 AM UTC
Hi guys; working on a figure set from Dragon with an MG42 gunner with an ammo belt slung around his neck; haven't tried this yet so what's the best way to get the belt to bend without destroying it? thanks
Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 06:24 AM UTC
Very, very gentle application of heat is pretty much your only hope, however, the difference in temperature between when the styrene starts to soften, just a little, and when it starts to melt and form a blob is only a few degrees and almost impossible to control freehand.
A very difficult prospect.
And if you're looking to wrap it around a guy's shoulders, that involves both a gentle curve plus splaying out the bullets as they pass around the neck, that's a real toughie.
Frankly, I've never seen it done even reasonably well using styrene belts. Cast metal belts, yes, as they will bend and can be shaped cold to a degree, but not styrene.
I'd really suggest using a PE belt and, once the shape is where you want it, thickening up the bullets using thick paint, PVA glue, etc. Something to provide the 3D effect of the bullets as opposed to the simple 2D effect of the PE.
A very difficult prospect.
And if you're looking to wrap it around a guy's shoulders, that involves both a gentle curve plus splaying out the bullets as they pass around the neck, that's a real toughie.
Frankly, I've never seen it done even reasonably well using styrene belts. Cast metal belts, yes, as they will bend and can be shaped cold to a degree, but not styrene.
I'd really suggest using a PE belt and, once the shape is where you want it, thickening up the bullets using thick paint, PVA glue, etc. Something to provide the 3D effect of the bullets as opposed to the simple 2D effect of the PE.
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RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 06:53 AM UTC
and somewhere in between the temperature when styrene can be shaped and when it starts melting is the temperature which allows built in stresses in the plastic from the molding to start pulling the whole thing into interesting shapes ...
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BogiBg
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 07:04 AM UTC
Put some thinner or solvent over it with brush, wait for few minutes and it will bend without any problems. You can probably use liquid glue like Tamiya extra thin with same effect.
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ardoe
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 07:12 AM UTC
I've got very good results in shapening syrene by zapping it within a microwave - just use some remains or strips and experiment a little with time and watt intensity (hope it's the correct expression ;-) ) to soften but not to melt the material. then carefully bend it - after cooling down it will stay in shape. try it, you like it
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18Bravo
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 07:28 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Put some thinner or solvent over it with brush, wait for few minutes and it will bend without any problems. You can probably use liquid glue like Tamiya extra thin with same effect.
A big +1 there. Heat rarely does the job correctly, with the exception of resin.
Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 07:43 AM UTC
I find dipping thin parts in a cup of boiled water (fresh from the kettle down here at sea-level) then quickly but gently bending it round a former (like a chopstick to mimic the torso) works best. The first dip gets a basic bend, and further dips ease it round. When it is close enough, snuggle it into the figure with glue.
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americanpanzer
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 09:40 AM UTC
Hi guys! Thank you for all the great ideas; I'll see what works. I figure if I mess it up I could try scratchbuilding with some thin brass wire and foil made into bullets and belt (or other materials if there are better options); or I can just leave it off since the same figure is also carrying an ammo can; just wanted to try it cause I think it would look cool if I can pull it off;
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RobinNilsson
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 09:52 AM UTC
Stretched sprue is easier to work with compared to brass wire,
it is not naturally brass coloured though .....
/ Robin
it is not naturally brass coloured though .....
/ Robin
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 12:32 PM UTC
Brian;
A maybe "final" word of caution as you go...
By all means, try the various techniques suggested. BUT... Try each a couple - three times on some scrap styrene of similar mass and size - a trimmed piece of runner or sprue, a cut strip, etc. before you tackle your real part(s). Practice with the scrap a bit and you'll probably do great with any of the suggestions!
PS: I've done the dip-in-boiling water, and the soften with cement. The dip route actually preserved details on the formed part better - cement will soften the plastic but can smooth out details as it goes.
Cheers! Bob
A maybe "final" word of caution as you go...
By all means, try the various techniques suggested. BUT... Try each a couple - three times on some scrap styrene of similar mass and size - a trimmed piece of runner or sprue, a cut strip, etc. before you tackle your real part(s). Practice with the scrap a bit and you'll probably do great with any of the suggestions!
PS: I've done the dip-in-boiling water, and the soften with cement. The dip route actually preserved details on the formed part better - cement will soften the plastic but can smooth out details as it goes.
Cheers! Bob
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Posted: Monday, December 17, 2018 - 03:58 PM UTC
What about the "soft" flexible belts from Live Resin? I know they offer 50 cal and 5.56mm and I thought 30cal also but all are disintegrating link. Just a thought
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