Hi all,

well here is my problem, i don't own any fancy P.E. folding tools and the part i am trying to be or should i say curve fits the exhaust of a 1/35 british scimitar produced my afv club.

now the kit originally came with some nickel coated P.E. which was a nightmare to work with so i'm wonder what would be the best way to"roll" this piece to make it fit the curved contours of the exhaust.

the kit instructions suggest you use some sort of 5mm drill bit but i am loathed to try this as i did it with the original P.E. that came with the kit and it just wouldn't work properly.

hints and tips welcomed

I've heard the kit provided exhaust cover should be heated to help it bend but haven't tried it yet.

I'd suggest finding a dowel rod from a DIY store or plastic styrene rod.

Here's a related thread that may help...

https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/5vijex/how_to_annealing_the_photo_etch_in_a_simple_way/

H.P.

If I have to anneal some brass PE I simply put the entire sheet (or the individual part) in the oven on an old cookie sheet - 450 or higher for about 30 minutes and then let it cool slowly.

Other metals will require different temperatures/different times. Google "annealing temperature for _________" to find recommendations.

This should take the "temper" out of the metal and it should then bend more easily.

Yes-- annealing brass and nickle plated brass is the best way to soften it to get it to roll. The best method is to pass it through a small flame source momentarily. I use a small butane torch, but a lighter or even a candle will do--However, be careful not to overheat it to the point it melts. You should have no problem rolling it after. If you want to restore it to the original strength, heat it again and plunge it into a cup of ice water (not always necessary to do this however, only for parts that require some strength.
VR, Russ

Another idea that works along the same lines as the sponge idea above: Using a drill bit or piece of rod of about the correct size push the metal into something like putty or "play-doh" to force it to wrap around the rod.

Remember the metal will have some spring or "memory" (unless heavily annealed) so start with a rod of a larger size than the intended finished diameter and work the PE progressively to a tighter and tighter bend. At the end you may be using a rod smaller than the finished desired size, this will allow so the PE can "spring back" to the desired finished diameter.

What they said... works.

well I've made a pigs bottom of the kit supplied P.E. parts but I do have the eduard P.E. set waiting in the wings, so I will look at that.. hopefully it bends easier than the nickel coated version.

If possible put the nickel parts even the messed up on a tray and anneal them. Smooth them out and try again. Some might be salvageable.

Don't get your hopes up-- nickel coated has nothing to do with malleability. The thickness of the brass is what makes the difference. In order to bend thicker brass, it needs to be anealled, plain and simple. I've managed to restore bent up parts by flattening them out with a steel roller, and starting over again, you might give that a try, but you will still need to anneal the brass, no mater what. Take it from me, I scratch build in brass, and the only way to get thicker brass to work, nickeled or not, is to anneal. The nickel coating is simply a method to keep quality brass from corroding over long periods of time, and is so thin as to be negligible.
VR, Russ

thanks for all your help guys, I'm gonna have a look on YouTube to see if there are any how to videos there.