Hi,

I wanted to try AK Interactive's new Real Colors, So I purchased set to use on an old M3 Honey kit. I had no problems airbrushing and no lifting of paint when the marks were removed. I thinned the paint with Tamiya yellow cap and had no problems cleaning my airbrush. After the paint had several days to dry.

When I went to apply decals I ran into trouble. Luckily the first ones I tried were on the front fenders. As soon as I applied Micro Sol the paint just dissolved and ran on one fender. The other fender was fine. I'm at a loss as to why this happened, especially since it only happened on one fender not both. I did not spray primer first which might be a part of the problem, but only on one side. Has anyone else had any experience with Real Colors and Micro Sol?

Russ

I have been using Real Colors for a short time, but have not had that issue, I use MircoSol, MicroSet, and SolvaSet. I should state though I apply a coat of Future prior to doing decals, so this may protect the paint.

I had the same issue.....learned to go very light on the decal set. I sealed with AK ultra Matt and that helped with the issue.

AKs Real Color line are Acrylic Lacquers. I have used Tamiya Lacquer thinner through the AB with no problem. Would there be an issue with the chems in the Lacquer vs Micrsol at the base level? I use the "simple" Testor's decal set (Hey Grandpa, get with the 21st Century), and have had no issues with the paint separating. But as was mentioned before, and what I have read on this site regarding finishing, that a good gloss coat should be applied prior to decals. Something about "smoothest surface possible". Sorry for rambling.

On a side note, the Real Colors I have brush on like a champ too

Think yourself lucky that you weren't using Humbrol decal set. I used that on top of Tamiya acrylics which had a coat of Tamiya clear on top, and it melted the paint leaving what can best be described as a gooey coloured mess. I switched to microsol and haven't had any problems since, but I don't apply it prior to putting the decal on the model and just position it using water, and then put it on the decal itself to soften it.

If you didn't, you should always seal with a gloss clear. I use Future and Walther's Solvent and never run into any problems with any finish(Tamiya, Vallejo, MM, Mission Model, AK, Mig, Lifecolor).

Yes, I had the same issue and sealing the paint first resolved it.

I also had issues using Rub down decals straight on AK too. I used an old MIG US Star set and had trouble getting them to 'stick' and when the backing sheet was removed, the AK OD had discoloured where the film had been rubbed. An Archer decal tested on the same kit had better adhesion, but the colour still discoloured. No problems after sealing.

Hi, Russ!

I may still be living in the 20th Century, but let me just say this:

THIS is EXACTLY why I STILL use TESTORS Model Master II ENAMELS, (in the 1/2 ounce bottles), with TESTORS Enamel Thinners, and TESTORS Airbrush Thinners for my TESTORS ENAMELS when I'm airbrushing- I use TESTORS LACQUER THINNERS ONLY WITH TESTORS LACQUERS. No, I DO NOT work for TESTORS; I've had very good luck in using TESTORS' products since 1961, so I'm going to stick with them...

BEFORE using MICRO SOL or MICRO SET, one has to, HAS TO, prepare the "decaling-area" with some kind of a "glossy clear coat" to either the area which is to have any decals applied, or OVERALL. I like to confine my "glossy clear prep-coat" ONLY to where I am going to apply my decals. I'll explain it a bit better, directly. Once this "clear prep-coat" has dried, I can then use my MICRO SOL and MICRO SET over these with impunity-

I NEVER had a problem with any of these products because I've ALWAYS followed this simple method.

I like to use the TESTORS "rattle-can" 1960 Lusterless (Flat) Lacquer Spray as my FINAL coat over all of my military stuff, ONLY when I'm using the aforementioned TESTORS products. I "dust" this on. "Less is more"...

Now, this is what I like to do:

PRIOR to applying my decals, I always airbrush one of the TESTORS Clear Gloss or Clear Semi Gloss Lacquers, (these come in 1/2 ounce bottles), confining this "glossy clear prep-coat" ONLY TO THE AREA WHERE THE DECAL(s) ARE TO BE APPLIED, PERIOD. These areas are masked-off, beforehand. Once any of these clear "prep-coats" have dried properly, (at least 24 hours), ONLY THEN do I go ahead and apply my decals, using my MICRO SOL and MICRO SET as per MICRO PRODUCTS' directions.

Note: The trick to applying MICRO SOL and MICRO SET is to apply these two liquids SPARINGLY.

When I (rarely) use the various TAMIYA Acrylic bottled Paints and/or TAMIYA Lacquers in the "rattle-cans", (their Clear Gloss, Semi-Matte and Matte "rattle-can" Lacquers are EXCELLENT), the same rules apply as to the thinners that I will use. That means TAMIYA Paints with TAMIYA Thinners, and TAMIYA Clear coats, PERIOD.

The ONLY times that I EVER use "FUTURE", is when I "dip" the clear plastic CANOPIES and "glass parts" of my 1/48 AIRCRAFT in it to increase their CLARITY. Otherwise, I will use TAMIYA Clear Gloss or "Smoke"...

So what's a reasonable answer, here..?

My advice is to stay within "like-manufacturers" when using various "coloring" techniques, i.e, TESTORS Paints & Primers with TESTORS Thinners and Clear coats; TAMIYA Paints with TAMIYA Thinners, etc. This simple and handy rule applies right on down the line of the multitude of products that at are on the market today...

As to applying heavy washes, I DON'T. I NEVER use "oils" or other "gimmick-products" such as AK INTERACTIVE etc, because using any of that stuff does NOT really "interact" with anything. I know this from experience... I use other techniques to achieve my "special effects", which I won't go into at this time, since their applications are quite lengthy in explanation. A LOT of people would go ahead and call my explanations

I won't mention names...

As to AK INTERACTIVE's new "Real Colors"? To MY eye, they're "too light" to suit ME. If you like them, use them by all means. I like to custom-mix my own colors. I've YET to use ANYTHING "straight-out-of-the-bottle", EXCEPT as a "base coat". WHY should I go out and buy what amounts to HUNDREDS of EXTRA DOLLARS worth of "new" paints, when my own ready-stock of paints would put some pretty reputable ( ) Hobby Shops to shame..?

Here is a heads up for you all.. if you use Model Master flat spray over Archer dry transfers you are in a for failure. They do warn you not to do this but I am smarter than them... well. I figured a coat of future would protect them. So I put them on top of a coat of future and brushed a coat of future on top. The next day I sprayed the tank with MM flat and left it to dry. When I came back the transfers had all melted and ran down the side of the tank. Lession learned, the manafacture might know what they are talking about. Not the quite on topic but close enough.

Always "seal" the paint with a semi or gloss coat. Even when you are using Testors Model Master you should do this so that the decals have a smooth surface to adhere to. Also, after the decals are set and dried, apply a second light gloss or semi gloss coat to make the decals look as if they were painted on and part of the paint scheme.

Well now, you see, I had better luck than you did in using TESTORS MODEL MASTER II Lusterless (Flat) Spray Lacquer OVER ARCHER Dry Transfers over the years- I'm going to hazard a guess as to why:

I like to "dust" the surface with the Lusterless Flat as opposed to outright SPRAYING this stuff on over my subject, ESPECIALLY dry transfers. Dry transfers are not only finicky, but they are VERY FRAGILE to boot. I like to use decals whenever I can, and dry transfers ONLY when there are no decals available for my subject-at-hand.

Experience has taught me that the TESTORS LACQUERS are pretty-darned-potent stuff, and they need what we would call a "velvet-touch"... I've used ARCHERS' dry transfers with final dust-coats of the TESTORS 1960 Lusterless spray on several of my 1/35 Soft-skins, and over a BOATLOAD of my 1/35 Armor, with no nasty after-effects. Try it on some scrap if and when you might have the time. I CANNOT say this enough on THIS modeling site:

"Less is More"...

It could also be that Bob Archer knew that there are A LOT of people out there, (I'm NOT saying you), who could screw up Corn Flakes; hence the "precautionary advice" regarding the use of TESTORS Lusterless (Flat) 1960, with his really GREAT dry transfers... I would have issued the same warning, were I in his place...

I agree with Dennis re: matching manufacturers. Can't go wrong.

Also agree that the Testors MM clearcoat Rattle cans have great results as well. I put at least 3 clear coats on an armor kit: Gloss to apply decals, after decals for pin washes, then a Flat clearcoat at the end. Light coats

I have trouble justifying 3 AB cleanings just for clear coats.
These Rattle cans are a welcome and effective substitute.