I'm working on figures, atm. Faces, to be specific. I prime them, with Stynylrez primer(no reduction) and apply a thin coat of Vallejo, reduced with Liquitex Flow Improver(10:1@15psi). I notice a very fine grit, upon closer inspection(magx2.5). It probably doesn't matter, but I would like to achieve a smooth finish. Can someone please direct me as to how to go about it? TIA

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I'm working on figures, atm. Faces, to be specific. I prime them, with Stynylrez primer(no reduction) and apply a thin coat of Vallejo, reduced with Liquitex Flow Improver(10:1@15psi). I notice a very fine grit, upon closer inspection(magx2.5). It probably doesn't matter, but I would like to achieve a smooth finish. Can someone please direct me as to how to go about it? TIA

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Hi, Matthew!

IMO, you're PROBABLY getting this "gritty" finish because you're using products that are made by DIFFERENT manufacturers. It's been my own experience that there are some products out there that just don't get along with each other... If I were you, I would experiment on scrap before I commit to using any products that may not "interact" well, DESPITE the claims that some manufacturers may make... OLD paint may give you problems with "grittiness", too.

It's expensive, but I like to buy and use new, fresh paint, stirred and mixed properly to get the "smoothness" that I desire for my projects. However, I'd also like to point out that I stick with simple methods, rather than using "exotic" primers, additives and thinners. I've heard and read about modelers who've run into problems with Vallejo paint reacting badly with certain "other" products. I don't know- I don't use Vallejo stuff at all. I DON'T LIKE OILS, either.

I like to use TESTORS MODEL MASTER II ENAMELS when I paint my figures' faces. NEVER straight-out-of-the-bottle. Once in a great while, I'll use HUMBROL Enamels, but I NEVER MIX HUMBROL ENAMELS WITH TESTORS. GUNZE is too hard for me to keep handy in any quantity, mainly because of the prices and the horrendous shipping charges from overseas. I have a nice set of LIFECOLOR Facial Colors, but I have yet to use them, so I can't comment on their performance. There again, different media from what I have the best luck with. The LIFECOLOR Facial set has some really nice colors in it, but I can achieve those very same colors by using my enamels, mixed on a painting palette. As far as paint thinners, sealer-coats, etc are concerned, I strictly keep them all "in the same family", so to speak; TESTORS paints with TESTORS thinners, TAMIYA with TAMIYA, HUMBROL with HUMBROL, etc. Mixing "un-like" products from "different families" is asking for trouble...

I like to use enamels because in my experience, they FLOW much nicer than the acrylics, and they give me a smoother finish, no matter WHAT I'm painting, whether I'm airbrush or brush-painting.

HARMFUL VAPORS..? That's what we have windows for...

Hi Matt,
There is the possibility that you are holding the airbrush a little too far from the subject while spraying and having the paint semi-dry before hitting the figure. Hard to say from your description of what is happening but a 'dusty''granular' finish generally indicates that the AB nozzle is too far away from the subject. I think if your primer is on and cured it shouldn't matter if the paint is of the same brand. Once the primer is cured you should be able to put any compatible paint on without having a problem (ie; acrylic paint with acrylic primer)



Cheers,
C.