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Armor/AFV: Modern - USA
Modern Armor, AFVs, and Support vehicles.
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Tamiya 1/48 M1A2 Abrams - newbie build
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Friday, April 05, 2019 - 11:54 PM UTC
This is my first build in awhile. Lots of life changes in the last 10yrs and I finally have a couple months with some free time.

My skills and available tools have decreased to the point that this will be a very modest build. I do not have an airbrush, so weathering and final paint will need to be simplified for hand work.

The build will be completely OOB using Model Master acrylics and Tamiya sprays.

Feel free to add any thoughts — anything is welcome.

The kit:



And this morning I washed the parts in warm soapy water. No idea if this is still necessary; dad taught me to do it years ago to remove the mold release agent.

Tojo72
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North Carolina, United States
Joined: June 06, 2006
KitMaker: 4,691 posts
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Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 12:58 AM UTC
Looks good,will be checking in.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 04:10 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Looks good,will be checking in.



Great! Chime in if you see anything that needs to be fixed or can be done better.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 04:13 AM UTC
So far it's typical Tamiya — excellent engineering and great instructions. Lower hull coming along. I like that the arms (?) are molded in place. No need to worry about floaters and alignment. I can see how it would be frustrating for diorama makers, however.

Yes, I'm a bit sloppy on the super glue where it won't be seen. I'd rather that than something pop apart later.

Question: What's with the metal weight bar included in the kit? I'm inclined to skip it. Any reason not to?

Scarred
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 04:27 AM UTC
The bar is to give the kit some 'scale' weight, what ever that means. Use it don't use it your choice.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 04:31 AM UTC

Quoted Text

The bar is to give the kit some 'scale' weight, what ever that means. Use it don't use it your choice.



Gotcha. Without articulating suspension it seems like just another thing to make it easier to drop or damage the model if it breaks loose, so I'll just skip it.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 07:06 AM UTC
Skipped the wheels and tracks for the moment and moved onto the hull and turret. The halves are not glued together yet.

Easy kit. Sure is nice having modern tooling and quality. Been working on an older Revell aircraft and it's no fun.

Not looking forward to the tracks...never done "link and length" before and they look like a bad compromise between indy link tracks and the "rubber band" type. We'll see....



TankManNick
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California, United States
Joined: February 01, 2010
KitMaker: 551 posts
Armorama: 543 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 07:09 AM UTC
Welcome back to modelling fun! I'm curious though. Why super-glue for a styrene kit? Wouldn't you get a better bond with styrene glue/cement? Super glue tends to brittleness.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 07:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Welcome back to modelling fun! I'm curious though. Why super-glue for a styrene kit? Wouldn't you get a better bond with styrene glue/cement? Super glue tends to brittleness.



Short answer: I'm impatient.

Actually though, I've been using super glue for awhile now...I thought most modelers did?

Haven't personally used tube cement since I was 11 or 12, but do let me know if I'm doing something wrong. Don't need my finished builds falling apart, that's for sure.
TankManNick
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California, United States
Joined: February 01, 2010
KitMaker: 551 posts
Armorama: 543 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 10:07 AM UTC
Tube cement is too thick except for heavy-duty work. Use a liquid form such as Testors or Tamiya and apply with a brush. (Still called plastic cement but it's a liquid in a bottle.)

Or use super if that works for you!
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 11:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tube cement is too thick except for heavy-duty work. Use a liquid form such as Testors or Tamiya and apply with a brush. (Still called plastic cement but it's a liquid in a bottle.)

Or use super if that works for you!



Ah, I'd forgotten about the liquid cement. I have some of that...should try it.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 06, 2019 - 11:47 AM UTC
Well that's it for the day. The link-and-length tracks were a real pain, but finally came together.

Just need to finish the turret and then begin painting the subassemblies.

Fit overall was excellent, but the seam on the front glacis plate (?) was dissapointingly large. That's going to take some work to hide.

All feedback welcome.









bcm235
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Colorado, United States
Joined: August 21, 2005
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 31 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 05:58 AM UTC
[quote]
Quoted Text


Ah, I'd forgotten about the liquid cement. I have some of that...should try it.



Definitely try the liquid cement. I used super glue for most of my modeling years (> 20 years plus) because that's what I thought everyone did. Only in the past couple of years did I discover Tamiya liquid cement while watching Andy's Hobby Headquarters videos on Youtube. Those liquid cements are far superior when it comes to binding plastic parts together. Downside is the bad smell.

As for the kit, I recently completed assembly as well. I liked it very much. Very easy to put together like a typical Tamiya kit.

Here are some issues I've found. The model is missing a couple of ammo boxes that usually go in front of the side storage bins. The tow cables are a bit finicky because of the small scale. You have to put them on the turret with a slight bend to them, as they are stored along the bottom of the turret (not straight). They are relatively easy to attach with liquid cement. One of my tow cables broke in two, but I managed to put them together on the turret.

bcm235
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Colorado, United States
Joined: August 21, 2005
KitMaker: 34 posts
Armorama: 31 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 06:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Fit overall was excellent, but the seam on the front glacis plate (?) was dissapointingly large. That's going to take some work to hide.



I don't see the seam on the front of the hull on your pictures. I didn't have any on my model either. If you are referring to the line that runs across just below the very front part of the hull, then I think that's supposed to be there (weld line?). All of my 1/35 Abrams kits have that line running across (just below the headlights).
errains
#045
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: September 23, 2005
KitMaker: 362 posts
Armorama: 350 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 07, 2019 - 08:35 AM UTC
Good work so far Samuel!! I've been eyeing this kit for some time so I'll be watching with much interest.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Monday, April 08, 2019 - 02:36 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Here are some issues I've found. The model is missing a couple of ammo boxes that usually go in front of the side storage bins. The tow cables are a bit finicky because of the small scale. You have to put them on the turret with a slight bend to them, as they are stored along the bottom of the turret (not straight). They are relatively easy to attach with liquid cement. One of my tow cables broke in two, but I managed to put them together on the turret.



Thanks for the tips. I did notice the instructions wanted two 1.2mm holes drilled on each side of the turret. Since I don't have a drill, I skipped that. Hoping I can finesse it into a curve the hard way.

Interesting on the ammo boxes. I'll probably just build this OOB due to budget and time constraints, but a good tip for future builds. Maybe DML's M1A1 AIM kit....


Quoted Text


I don't see the seam on the front of the hull on your pictures. I didn't have any on my model either. If you are referring to the line that runs across just below the very front part of the hull, then I think that's supposed to be there (weld line?). All of my 1/35 Abrams kits have that line running across (just below the headlights).



You know, you're exactly right! I assumed that was an uncharacteristically large seam for a Tamiya kit. I'll clean it up a bit and leave it.


Quoted Text

Good work so far Samuel!! I've been eyeing this kit for some time so I'll be watching with much interest.



Thanks Eric! I don't think you'll regret the kit.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 - 08:11 AM UTC
Been looking around for a step-by-step weathering process for this build and I think I've settled on something like this, from MN Scale Modeler.

Gallery

And there's a youtube video here


I might skip the hairspray part. I've tried that in the past and it didnt' do anything at all. Could that have been because my coat was too thick? (it came from a can, not an airbrush)
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Saturday, April 20, 2019 - 11:19 PM UTC
Finished pre-painting assembly of the kit yesterday. Most elements are glued except for the turret machine guns, main gun/mantlet assembly, tracks/sprockets/road wheels and side skirt armor.

The kit was a real joy to assemble. The luggage rack and turret are sparse compared to pictures, but I'll be building this OOB and just focusing on paint and weathering.



errains
#045
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: September 23, 2005
KitMaker: 362 posts
Armorama: 350 posts
Posted: Sunday, April 21, 2019 - 11:25 PM UTC
Construction looks solid and well executed. Now for some color on this bad boy!

sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Monday, April 22, 2019 - 01:13 AM UTC
Thanks.


Color might go on this week. First I'm trying to figure out how to clean the model before painting. Looking at it this morning revealed some fingerprints, etc from construction.
errains
#045
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South Carolina, United States
Joined: September 23, 2005
KitMaker: 362 posts
Armorama: 350 posts
Posted: Monday, April 22, 2019 - 02:14 AM UTC
A soft brush and plain ol'dish soap, let dry a day or two...add paint

Easy Cheesy
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Monday, April 22, 2019 - 02:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

A soft brush and plain ol'dish soap, let dry a day or two...add paint

Easy Cheesy



Ha, that's almost too easy! Thanks for the tip.
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 23, 2019 - 12:08 AM UTC
Well if anyone's reading this, I've got another question below that might have me boxed into a corner.

http://armorama.kitmaker.net/forums/276860&page=1#2332038
sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Tuesday, May 07, 2019 - 05:45 AM UTC
Finally got two coats of Tamiya German Grey applied as a primer and basecoat for an attempt at chipping. I'll be adding light hold hairspray under the Tamiya Sand topcoat. We'll see if that method works this time...hasn't in the past for me.

Color in the first picture is closer to correct.




sweaver
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Kentucky, United States
Joined: April 19, 2007
KitMaker: 759 posts
Armorama: 410 posts
Posted: Thursday, May 23, 2019 - 10:48 PM UTC
Here's the latest progress. Still some more detail painting to do.

The hairspray chipping technique didn't work (again). I think a nice airbrush is a necessity to make that work. Rattle cans just lay down too much paint.

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