_GOTOBOTTOM
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Air Brushing help ?
alphasniper
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2002 - 04:58 AM UTC
i have never used an airbrush, i've done one large model of a refuling car but i hand painted that, i now have a panzer to paint, how much diffrence is there between hand brushing and airbrushing? not time just look and easy. and what type of airbrush can i get that isn't too far over $100?
Kencelot
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2002 - 05:30 AM UTC
The difference between ABing and HBing is...like apples and oranges. No comparrison. Two different results. The amount and degree of results from ABing is far greater than what HBing can achieve. If and after you get one, you're sure to ask yourself how you got along without one. Nuff said there.
As far as which AB to get...I'll start with the one I use. An Aztec 470 dual action, internal mix, with an ole Thomas compresser. Very easy to clean and change tips in a snap.
Aztec makes a 270 model which is an external mix single action AB. Very good for the beginner. They have a package set, the A2706 which comes with a couple color cups, hose and a can of propellant for around $35.
There are so many AB available out there ranging from $30 to well over $500. Just watch this post as many other well informed posters give their advice or AB of choice.
In the mean time, you can go here to get yourself familiarized with ABing.:

http://www.airheadairbrush.com/airbrushes.php

Hope this helps to get you started. Please feel free to ask a million more questions if you need.
GunTruck
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2002 - 11:32 AM UTC
AlphaSniper -

I use the Paasche V and VL airbrushes - these are single and double-action brushes. These are rugged - both have lasted some 10 years now, and excellent for general modeling. A single-action is good if you're into modeling US AFV's with a single OD paint job. If you're into German WW II armor, then the double-action brush is something nice to get into to control the spray pattern.

I also have a Badger 150 which is a sweet all-around double-action brush. It does everything for me, and I like the spray pattern capability. All of my brushes are quick-connected to my silent air compressor for easy use.

None costed me over $100 dollars when I got them. The silent air compressor, on the other hand, ran me $600 dollars.

Gunnie
HunterCottage
#116
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2002 - 04:26 PM UTC
I've used both the AB's that Gunnie and Kencelot have used and my opinion is that Aztec is the best of the two. I find that 470 is much quicker to learn, maybe not less forgiving, but the compressor is the part that makes the difference. Good, clean, solid air. If you think you will be modeling for any amount of time a compressor is a necessary purchase. I am looking to purchase a compressor only made for ABing, only due to the sound. I want to be able to work when I have the time, at home, inside.

I think the main thing with ABing is to do it. It takes time and practise, but it all pays off quickly!!

My 2 cents worth
NeilUnreal
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Posted: Friday, February 08, 2002 - 09:58 PM UTC
I've tried a number of airbrushes and they all have their high and low points. Like GunTruck, the compressor was the single biggest purchase in my system. Getting a good compressor is an important part of the "airbrush experience." If you're lucky enough to have a heated garage or basement, you can get a tool-type compressor with a large storage tank fairly cheap (just make sure it has a good regulator). Since I airbrush in a corner of the dining room, I had to buy a quieter compressor.

I personally prefer Badger and Iwata airbrushes with gravity feed. Like Paasche brushes, they're very sturdy and consistent (with proper maintenance). For me, a two airbrush system works the best -- one for larger areas and one for details. Right now the large area brush is an Iwata HP-C and the detail brush is a Sotar. I like the new gravity-feed Eclipse, but it wasn't available when I bought my HP-C.

However, the A470 is a very pleasant and versatile airbrush to use right out of the box. It's hands-down the easiest airbrush to clean, and spare parts are often available at your local hobby store. It is a little more fragile than a steel airbrush, but it does have a lifetime warranty.

Having said all that, of course it's really the artist, not the airbrush. There are kids with $2 spray cans that could paint rings around a hack like me holding a Custom Micron!

-Neil
alphasniper
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Posted: Sunday, February 17, 2002 - 01:35 AM UTC
thanks this will get me started on finding one that i can live with, (as long as those kids with spray cans stay away from me!)
Chappy_ju87
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Posted: Thursday, February 28, 2002 - 09:20 PM UTC
I have the Paasche VLS, Iwata H-SBS, and the Aztec A470. I only use the Iwata( best brush I have ever used) on detailing. But the paasche is so durable, I use it for the most part. As far as the Aztec goes, hate it.....liked it when I first got it but after awhile it doesn't seem to work as well, plus I cannot get the fine line like I can with the other 2 brushes.
YodaMan
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 12:39 AM UTC
Would any of you consider the Paasche H (as in the March FSM) a good first airbrush? I want something to start out with, but one that will still be useful a year from now. The (only) local hobby shop by me has one for $70, so it's the one I've got my eye on. Thanks.

YodaMan
pipesmoker
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 12:47 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Would any of you consider the Paasche H (as in the March FSM) a good first airbrush?


Yoda,
IMHO, yes, the Paasche H single action is a good first sirbrush. Easy to adjust, easy to clean. And your local hobby shop should be able to order parts. Unless you are trying to freehand camoflage the #3 tip is good for all your general use. Just don't over tighten the nozzle on the tip, you will crack the nozzle.
The hardest part to clean is the paint cup. I use a pipe cleaner to clean the little tube that connects to the brush.
screamingeagle
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Joined: January 08, 2002
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 01:39 AM UTC
Hi, i use the Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS with a Campbell/Hausfeld FP 2003 Compressor /AirTank.
My Iwata lives up to the quality reliability & performance
that is expected from a quality brand name airbrush.
Any of the big named AB's ( Iwata - Paasche - Badger - Tamiya) will
last a lifetime if properly cared for, & sometimes replacing parts.
I always stress the point to a new
airbrush user, that cleaning & maintenance is the key to keeping
your AB performing like a well oiled machine. If you neglect this
then your asking for problems.
GOOD LUCK IN YOUR SEARCH
- ralph
YodaMan
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 01:56 AM UTC
Thanks guys. Now it's time to pick up the search for a part-time job...groan

YodaMan
Bluefalcon47
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 02:00 AM UTC
I have a Badger 150, 200 and 350 and an Aztec 470 (yes, FOUR airbrushes LOL). I like the 150 and the 470 best. Aztec is very easy to use. You can quickly swap colors and it is easy to clean. Make sure that if you plan to spray acrylics with it, you get a version with the white and black nozzle (general coverage and detail). Also for large coverage you really need the yellow nozzle. I like the Badger a lot for detail painting and spraying metalizer. I use the Aztec for general airbrushing.
However, a good compressor is also important. And like the others said, to learn airbrushing you have to DO it. :-)
TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, March 01, 2002 - 02:28 AM UTC
Alphasniper, air brushes aren't all that expensive anymore. Check out EBay or something. If you've got a little time and watch the listings, you can find a good deal :-)
I use a Paasche single action for my primer/base/gloss/dull coats etc. All of my other work is done with one of two Iwata's, one for overcoats/cloud coating/highlighting/etc, and the other for the fine to really fine line stuff...hope that helps

Tread.
alphasniper
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Posted: Friday, March 08, 2002 - 05:47 AM UTC
The thing I don't get is which airbrush is the best for painting 1/35 vehicles and able o do good detail i don't know the specs. that i should know can anybody help explain what each is?
Thanks for all the help and advice
I'm just alittle slow to understand somethings i never have been fully introduced to
TreadHead
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Posted: Friday, March 08, 2002 - 05:58 AM UTC
...Not sure exactly what 'specs' you're talking about, but, it's not so much the brush as it is the needle set you use. Maybe one of the other members can expand on this more.
My advice? Get an Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS, you won't be sorry.

Tread.
alphasniper
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 10:01 AM UTC
Tread when I said "specs" i meant compressor needs, and anyother important things i might need to know but you answered it thank you
Thanks to all of you who responded to this post
your knowledge has been helpful and great thanks
m1garand
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 10:36 AM UTC
Since my funds don't allow me to buy a compressor at this time, is it possible to use canned air with the Aztek A470?
Thanks
m1garand
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 11:40 AM UTC
I'd like to get a good airbrush and be able to use it until the time I'm able to get a compressor. Model Expo has the Aztek model A4709 for $89.99
cfbush2000
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 02:45 PM UTC
I use the Aztek 470. In my past modeling life I had a badger. I like the 470 and have found it has a short learning curve. I just wore out my first nozel. I think it's a good choice for a beginner.
m1garand
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 02:47 PM UTC
My airbrushing experience lies with painting real helicopters and cars.
drewgimpy
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 06:13 PM UTC
I got a my first air brush for Christmas, the Aztec 470. I realized that I would be limiting my abitlity to create realistic good looking models as my skills improve without one. I like the airbrush I got because it comes with several different nozels. The advantage to this in my opinion are:

1. you don't have to adjust the needles to get certain effects, you just put in the correct nozel for what you want. It is hard enough for me to learn how to use the airbrush without trying to adjust a needle or trying to figure out if the problems are caused by the needle or myself.

2. If I do damage a nozel I can replace it much cheaper with this system than I could with a single nozel system. Thats my understanding anyway.

I would get an airbrush for sure if I where you, good luck with it and don't get to discouraged if it doesn't come out perfect at first, it takes a while to learn.
HunterCottage
#116
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Posted: Saturday, March 09, 2002 - 07:37 PM UTC
M1,

Using canned air is lacking with any a/b, but when you do buy a compressor you'll understand what I am meaning. (If could locate my old compressor in University Place you could have it, but my sister moved from the area and she probably threw it away, sorry )
m1garand
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Posted: Sunday, March 10, 2002 - 01:31 AM UTC
No problem Brian. I'm just hoping to get a compressor as soon as possible.
alphasniper
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 09:19 AM UTC
Now comes out the truth the airbrush is cheap but they kill your wallet with the compressor Why oh Why must i be so stubborn/
I MUST have an airbrush so the next question is what type of compressor is best with these models? : Aztec 470, Aztec A4709, Iwata Eclipse HP-BCS?
THanks for the airbrush help now only to find a compressor
like "The Search for the Holy Grail"
Kencelot
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Posted: Tuesday, March 12, 2002 - 09:52 AM UTC
Alpha, dont fret too much over the "best for" which AB. I've used the same ole dog of a compressor for several years now. (Thomas) Here's a link for you if you want to see more detailed explainations of the "best for". :

http://www.currys.com/airbrush/aboutcompr.html

So long as you get yourself a regulator with a moisture trap, you'll do just fine with just about anything...

And from my favorite AB site: http://www.airheadairbrush.com/compressors.php

Just a word about compressors. Just about any air compressor with a pressure regulator will work just fine for airbrushing. A nice pretty silent compressor marketed as a airbrush compressor is nice but not necessary.
Home Depot, Eagle Hardware most lumber yards
sell commercial type compressors that will work just fine.Check the compressors out at one of the above mentioned stores ,ask to hear the compressors run.You can buy a pretty quite running compressor for $200.00 or less.
For a limited budget you might want to check out Co2 tank as air source.Tanks are quite ,clean and provide dry air.One 15 pound tank will give you about 20 to 30 hours of air depending of course on the air pressure you run.Not the best way to go if shirts is what you will be airbrushing because of the high PSI required.Check your local welding supply or beverage supply company for rental prices.
Compressed air cans is another way to go if your thinking short term.You'd find this very expensive long term.Be sure to put the can in a pan of very warm water when using to keep the can from freezing.
Diaphragm compressor may look good price wise but have more cons than pros.No holding tanks,their noisy and usually don't supply a good steady supply of air.If you must buy one make sure it has auto shut - off switch.

If you click on the second link, they have a pretty deal on a SparMax Gold, Product ID: ITEM800, at $149 it's a pretty good deal for one of those little ones.
 _GOTOTOP