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AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
MRP Paint question -issues with airbrush
spongya
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 07:41 PM UTC
I have some issues with Mr Paint. I asked the company but they did not respond.

It has an agitator... five minutes of shaking, and it came out extremely thin and runny. It is supposed to be ready-to-spray, but it behaves like a gloss paint overdiluted.

One thin layer misted



multiple layers



Still uneven, thick, still goes on runny.

Tamiya/Gunze/AK Interactive/Testors (acrylic) white goes on great after one or two coats. (I use white as an example because it is a difficult color to spray.)

I am doing something wrong, but I do not know what. (I know Mig's paints are to be handled differently; perhaps this is a case like that.) Any suggestions would be welcome.
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 07:55 PM UTC

Quoted Text

I have some issues with Mr Paint. I asked the company but they did not respond.

It has an agitator... five minutes of shaking, and it came out extremely thin and runny. It is supposed to be ready-to-spray, but it behaves like a gloss paint overdiluted.

One thin layer misted



multiple layers



Still uneven, thick, still goes on runny.

Tamiya/Gunze/AK Interactive/Testors (acrylic) white goes on great after one or two coats. (I use white as an example because it is a difficult color to spray.)

I am doing something wrong, but I do not know what. (I know Mig's paints are to be handled differently; perhaps this is a case like that.) Any suggestions would be welcome.



Hello, Andras!

I wouldn't waste any more time with that MR. Whatever-it-is MiG paint. Go back to your "tried and true" brands of acrylics. I myself, don't like acrylics. THIS is a prime example of why I STILL stick to my OWN TESTORS Model Master II ENAMELS- NO PROBLEMS since the 1980s...

First of all:

Did you WASH all of your parts in a mild dish-washing/water solution BEFORE you airbrushed them? Mold-release sprays applied to the molds at the factory can wreak havoc with the parts not being able to hold paint, IF the parts are not washed prior to the modeler trying to paint them...

Second:

It looks like your paint is bubbling up on you- Have you got water in the airlines leading from the compressor to your airbrush? Sometimes water in your air lines can lead to the bubbling of paint. To alleviate these problems, I think it would be wise for you to install a couple of Water Traps in your air lines...

Third:

What are you using for THINNERS? If you are using an incompatible thinner, this will also cause adverse reactions in your paint. Are you using the proper thinners, as per MR. MiG INSTRUCTIONS? I don't like MiG paints of ANY type, whether they are Enamels, Lacquers, Acrylics or Oils... I don't like GUNZE paints, either...

Fourth:

Your air compressor- Is your air compressor of the "oil-less" type, or is it the type which must be oiled periodically for proper operation? If your compressor requires oil, it could be that excess oil has accumulated inside of the piston-cylinder. OR, if your compressor is the "oil-less" type, it could be that your compressor is old and worn out..?

Fifth:

Your Airbrush- What have you been using to clean your airbrush..? If you have been using ANY petroleum-based thinners to clean your airbrush, there may be oil-residues inside your airbrush that MAY be the culprit. MY last step in cleaning any one of my five airbrushes is to break the airbrush down and after cleaning the parts with the recommended thinners or cleaners, I soak the parts in ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL for at least a half-hour before I re-assemble my airbrushes. The alcohol will clean up ANY oil-residues that may still be adhering the the airbrush parts...

Sixth:

The paint itself- Even though your paint has an agitator, and it was shaken for five minutes as you say, it may be because your paint is:

a. OLD
b. Improperly-formulated at the factory
c. It is junk to begin with- Again, I don't like MiG or GUNZE paints...

If you like using acrylics, my suggestion to you would be to go back to your TAMIYA or TESTORS paints...
Maki
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 09:39 PM UTC
I didn't try the paints yet, but I bought some in Moson last weekend because my modeling friends swear it is a beautiful type of paint which behaves really good in the airbrush. I'm eager to see the responses to your querry as well.

Dennis, MRP is no Mr Mig Paint. The brand is from Slovakia and has nothing to do with Mig. As with every brand of paint there is a learning curve... so don't bash acrylic paints just because you can't use them properly. I've been using Gunze for a long time and had absolutely no problems with them, the paint covers perfectly and in my opinion the pigment is better than Tamiya. To each his own I guess...

Mario
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Posted: Sunday, April 28, 2019 - 11:10 PM UTC

Quoted Text


c. It is junk to begin with- Again, I don't like MiG or GUNZE paints...

If you like using acrylics, my suggestion to you would be to go back to your TAMIYA or TESTORS paints...



Gunze paints are junk, and Testors acrylics are good?... Er... Okay.... Move on, nothing to see here (note to self)...
spongya
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 01:10 AM UTC
Thank you for the response, but a lot of your points do not actually address the question.

1. I always wash the parts, and these have already been primed as you can see. The primer provides a good base for the paint to grip. Or should.


2. No, I have a water trap (I have been using an airbrush for more than a decade now), AND in case of acrylics the minimal amount of water is irrelevant, as it only dilutes the paint in a very small degree.



3. As I wrote this paint is pre-thinned. There is no need to thin it. This is the whole point of my post. I can thin paints, no problem. I can't make them less diluted.


4. Yes, it is an oil-less compressor, but since I do not have issues with other paints, only specifically with MRP, I do not see how this is an issue.


5. My airbrush could probably be cleaner (although I do regularly clean it), but since it only affects MRP paints, I do not see how this could be a problem here.

6. The paint was purchased new. The company is new. I regularly use other paints with are over 15 years old. It is unlikely it is the problem.
If the factory formulated it incorrectly, it means it is a crap paint. A possibility, but I doubt it. But it is neither Mig nor Gunze.


I do agree; I will probably keep using these -and AK's range. However I would not like to discard the option of using something I already paid for.
varanusk
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 01:46 AM UTC
Have you primed the plastic first? Seems to me it would need it.

Also, I would try a bit more air pressure and, specially, throw less paint. Give very very light coats, almost invisible, building the paint slowly. And allow to dry a few seconds between coats (go to a different area)
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 03:45 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I didn't try the paints yet, but I bought some in Moson last weekend because my modeling friends swear it is a beautiful type of paint which behaves really good in the airbrush. I'm eager to see the responses to your querry as well.

Dennis, MRP is no Mr Mig Paint. The brand is from Slovakia and has nothing to do with Mig. As with every brand of paint there is a learning curve... so don't bash acrylic paints just because you can't use them properly. I've been using Gunze for a long time and had absolutely no problems with them, the paint covers perfectly and in my opinion the pigment is better than Tamiya. To each his own I guess...

Mario



Hello, Mario!

Ah! MY MISTAKE!!! I thought that this was a paint made by MiG... APOLOGIES...

Just for everyone's information, I've tried ALL of the various acrylics which are formulated for airbrush use, and knowing that they need to be airbrushed EXACTLY according to the manufacturers' instructions. Long experience has taught me to READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND TO FOLLOW THEM...

It's not a case of "I CAN'T USE THEM (i.e, acrylics) PROPERLY" for me; I CAN use anything out there- I prefer my enamels and lacquers, instead...

In any case, I still hold with my comment about MiG and GUNZE paints- I DON'T LIKE THEM. TAMIYA's acrylics are much better than MiG and GUNZE, in my opinion; I still prefer my TESTORS Model Master II ENAMELS... I wasn't BASHING ALL acrylics- What I said was that many modelers have had problems with acrylics- To clarify, I've read about their problems with acrylics ON THIS VERY SITE...

I don't use acrylics because of their various problems; clogging, bubbling, orange-peeling, fish-eyes, cracking, adverse reactions when FUTURE is used as a sealer or for a glossy surface for decals, adverse reactions when airbrushing acrylics over FUTURE, adverse reactions to MANY different causes- I've tried ALL of the various acrylics which are formulated for airbrushing, EXCEPT for MRP... I DO like certain LIFE COLOR and TAMIYA acrylics for brush-painting tasks. Since we are discussing AIRBRUSHING, I had deliberately left out my own uses for my TAMIYA and LIFE COLOR acrylics...

In MY OWN airbrushing experiences, I've had the best luck with TESTORS Model Master II ENAMELS, (and sometimes their lacquers), and I'm going to continue using them. I ALSO like certain of the TESTORS and TAMIYA Spray Lacquers in the "rattle cans" for a few other tasks

Again, APOLOGIES for my mistake regarding the MRJ paints...

PS- No, I DO NOT work for TAMIYA, TESTORS or LIFE COLOR...
M4A1Sherman
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 04:15 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Thank you for the response, but a lot of your points do not actually address the question.

1. I always wash the parts, and these have already been primed as you can see. The primer provides a good base for the paint to grip. Or should.


2. No, I have a water trap (I have been using an airbrush for more than a decade now), AND in case of acrylics the minimal amount of water is irrelevant, as it only dilutes the paint in a very small degree.



3. As I wrote this paint is pre-thinned. There is no need to thin it. This is the whole point of my post. I can thin paints, no problem. I can't make them less diluted.


4. Yes, it is an oil-less compressor, but since I do not have issues with other paints, only specifically with MRP, I do not see how this is an issue.


5. My airbrush could probably be cleaner (although I do regularly clean it), but since it only affects MRP paints, I do not see how this could be a problem here.

6. The paint was purchased new. The company is new. I regularly use other paints with are over 15 years old. It is unlikely it is the problem.
If the factory formulated it incorrectly, it means it is a crap paint. A possibility, but I doubt it. But it is neither Mig nor Gunze.


I do agree; I will probably keep using these -and AK's range. However I would not like to discard the option of using something I already paid for.



Hello, Andras!

What I was doing was listing POSSIBLE CAUSES for your problems. I was NOT saying that the problems which I listed ARE the causes of your problems. There IS a difference...

I myself have known the frustration of buying different products and then finding out that I couldn't use them for one reason or another. If anything, I was EMPATHIZING with you, and I was trying to come up with a possible solution for you; we may have come up with a possible "fix" for your problem.

The reason that I mentioned the Water Traps is because SOMETIMES, the water that accumulates in the compressor AND the lines MAY have petroleum-based residues from the factory which made them, or in the case of compressors which need to be lubricated periodically, the water in the lines or in the compressor itself MAY have picked up excess oil. You will remember that I asked what KIND of compressor you are using..? I also asked about which types of thinners you are using when you are CLEANING your airbrush(es)- SOME of these thinners can leave residues or deposits within your airbrush and also the airbrush parts which MAY be causing your problems...

I was going to mention PRIMING your painting surface before you applied your paint, but I thought that you are a modeler of experience, so I didn't want to insult your intelligence in any way. More than likely, I'm sure that you know about priming your painting surface before applying your "colors". In any case, I see one of the other modelers who answered your post, posed the question of priming to you...

Perhaps one of the other modelers on this site has had experience with MRP paints and can help you with your problems. Again, I was only trying to suggest the different causes for your problems...

GOOD LUCK, Andras!
spongya
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Posted: Monday, April 29, 2019 - 11:03 PM UTC
Thank you for the response. Apparently not many people here have experience with this brand. I will experiment a bit when I have the time.

27-1025
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Posted: Tuesday, April 30, 2019 - 04:41 AM UTC
This guy is a big fan of MRP paints. Might be worth a look.
https://youtu.be/KkApO8H4KLA
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