Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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When to apply Zimmermit
MontanaHunter
United States
Joined: May 30, 2019
KitMaker: 17 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Joined: May 30, 2019
KitMaker: 17 posts
Armorama: 14 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 06:08 PM UTC
I have Dragons Jagdpanzer IV/L/48, Dragons Stug III Ausf G early and Rye Fields Fehrmann Tiger 1, all Calling for zimmermit. Rye was kind enough to supply some zimmermit tools and I have some Elmer's wood putty on hand that I've seen several builders use. Plenty of references on hand on how it looked so my question to you all that have done zimmermit is at what stage of the build do you typically start applying it? Do you find the best results tackling it once the majority of the build is complete minus the smaller details or does the best success come from applying it prior to your build? I'm sure there are variations in between. I'm leaning towards getting most of the major build done then doing it prior to final assembly but as none of the kits are exactly inexpensive on this guy's current budget i'd rather getting some insight before I start. Looking forward to the challenge and being in-between jobs unfortunately prevents ordering any aftermarket Zim kits so for the DIY guys I'd really appreciate your experiences.
panzerbob01
Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
Armorama: 2,959 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 06:43 PM UTC
I recommend application and tooling very early on in the build. Because even basic parts can add complexity to the hull surfaces getting zimm - think, for example, added posts and arms for attachment of bogies and / or wheels and rollers on the lower hull of a Pz. IV, and the tow-hooks and tow-cable hooks on Pz. IV rear hull plates - it works a heck of a lot easier and faster to zimm the lower hull tub first, and then add on those posts and hooks, etc.
Otherwise, you will have to tool around every bit you put on before the zimm. I find it a lot easier to chip off my DIY zimm (I use a mixture of drywall compound and latex wall paint for my zimm) to achieve better parts-fit then I do trying to tool my zimm around in-place added parts.
It does pay, I think, to have some photos on hand to guide how you will tool your zimm around hull features - patterns around those suspension attachment points, around MG fittings on the Glacis plate, around vision-blocks and tool-mounts, etc - so that you can do this BEFORE adding those parts. Applying zimm is just plain easier and faster when less complexity is in the way!
Just my suggestions, of course!
Cheers! Bob
Otherwise, you will have to tool around every bit you put on before the zimm. I find it a lot easier to chip off my DIY zimm (I use a mixture of drywall compound and latex wall paint for my zimm) to achieve better parts-fit then I do trying to tool my zimm around in-place added parts.
It does pay, I think, to have some photos on hand to guide how you will tool your zimm around hull features - patterns around those suspension attachment points, around MG fittings on the Glacis plate, around vision-blocks and tool-mounts, etc - so that you can do this BEFORE adding those parts. Applying zimm is just plain easier and faster when less complexity is in the way!
Just my suggestions, of course!
Cheers! Bob
RLlockie
United Kingdom
Joined: September 06, 2013
KitMaker: 1,112 posts
Armorama: 938 posts
Joined: September 06, 2013
KitMaker: 1,112 posts
Armorama: 938 posts
Posted: Saturday, June 29, 2019 - 06:43 PM UTC
I apply Zimmerit (two ‘m’) after the structure is complete but before any small details have been fitted to the surfaces to be treated. I mark the areas of tool clamps etc. and avoid applying it there as on the real vehicle they would be welded on before the Zimmerit was applied and you can’t weld to the stuff. It tends to ‘flow round’ such features as bump stops and suspension mounts as someone had to get a tool in there to texture it.
Be careful to keep it thin - the original I have measured is only around 5mm thick on the ridges and it’s very easy to make it too thick.
Be careful to keep it thin - the original I have measured is only around 5mm thick on the ridges and it’s very easy to make it too thick.