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Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Damn Earthquakes
JmeDubya
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California, United States
Joined: July 25, 2013
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 124 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 02:34 AM UTC
So we had two big earthquakes here in So Cal. (Very close to NTC) amazingly my collection managed to stay on their shelves...

Anyone else in earthquake country come up with a good way to secure models! Tried museum wax, but you’ll never get them off without breaking...

Did manage to forget I was painting and leave airbrush full of paint all night...



https://twitter.com/jmedubya/status/1147515296799793153?s=21
Kenaicop
#384
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Nevada, United States
Joined: August 23, 2005
KitMaker: 1,426 posts
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 02:51 AM UTC
Sitting in a movie theater in west Las Vegas, things started rocking and rolling!
TopSmith
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Washington, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 03:06 AM UTC
a Strip of double sided tape under the track. Also bolt the shelves to the wall. If it tips over...
panzerbob01
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Louisiana, United States
Joined: March 06, 2010
KitMaker: 3,128 posts
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 03:27 AM UTC

Quoted Text

So we had two big earthquakes here in So Cal. (Very close to NTC) amazingly my collection managed to stay on their shelves...

Anyone else in earthquake country come up with a good way to secure models! Tried museum wax, but you’ll never get them off without breaking...

Did manage to forget I was painting and leave airbrush full of paint all night...



https://twitter.com/jmedubya/status/1147515296799793153?s=21



Jamie;

Maybe you can "Peg" your builds to the shelf? I wanted to display my armor builds in a tall glass-front cabinet... And I wanted to be able to better see the builds on higher shelves, so I wanted to have the shelves slope down to the front of the cab... So I needed to anchor the builds so that they didn't simply slide down and off the sloped shelves... But I wanted to be able to easily remove models for whatever - which ruled out gluing or otherwise sticking them onto the shelves. The shelves are glass. I cut 1.5 x 0.75 inch pieces of masonite peg-board, glued in 1.5 inch tall dowel rod "pegs" at either end, and stuck these peg-boards onto the glass using Liquid Nails. Each build gets 2 holes drilled into its bottom using a template, and it simply slips down onto the pegs.

It's a bit of fiddle, but peg-boards are easy to make and attach to the shelves. The holes in the tank-bottoms will of course determine what way the build faces on the shelf - so a decision must be made as to how you want that build to sit. Drilling holes for pegs uses a template, so all kits get drilled with correct hole-spacing, and can be moved to other peg-boards to re-arrange the display. Pegs can be dowel, wire, glass or plastic rod, as desired.

I don't live in 'quake-country, so am not concerned with stuff "jumping off pegs" - but fitting a little "blue tac or other art-sticky-gum around the pegs will prevent that possible jump-off, but still allow it to be easily plucked off when so desired.

IF YOU are using horizontal wood shelves, your task could be a bit easier - just drill holes in the shelves for the pegs, or glue pegs onto the shelves directly. This will work well for things which have hidden bottoms which can be pegged... Tanks, cars, trucks, etc. Probably not so well for airplanes!

Other "peg" options abound when using wood shelving... Thin, stiff wire or glass or clear plastic rods passed thru holes in the shelving provide skinnier, less-visible pegs, for instance.

Just some suggestions!

Bob
18Bravo
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Colorado, United States
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 03:42 AM UTC
Buy barrister bookshelves. Each has four protective doors and shelves. I'm going to add intermediate shelves out of plexiglass by gluing small bits of dark stained wood inside. (as opposed to drilling and adding pegs) They protect from dust as well, and obviously keep WIPS safe from feline interference.
If these fall over the state of my little bits of assembled plastic (yes, I am am merely assembler) will be the least of my worries. It'll be time to go all Zombie apocalypse.




m4sherman
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Arizona, United States
Joined: January 18, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 03:42 AM UTC
I experience an earth quake back in the '80's in San Diego. In the rented beach house there was dozens of those tall glasses you get as souveniers. On all the shelves they had a strip of wood on the edge to keep the glasses contained.

It sounded like we were stuck in a glass wind chime factory for a few minutes, but nothing broke.
KoSprueOne
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Myanmar
Joined: March 05, 2004
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 04:39 AM UTC
I was lucky this time around. Only one stack in the stash fell over and leaned against another stack next to it.



My neighbor wasn't as lucky...






JPTRR
Staff MemberManaging Editor
RAILROAD MODELING
#051
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Tennessee, United States
Joined: December 21, 2002
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Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 05:26 AM UTC

Quoted Text

My neighbor wasn't as lucky...




KoSprueOne !

Jamie,

I moved some of my models cross country thrice. I used Elmers. It held them down well. Ease of popping them off varied depending upon whether they were glued to wood, plastic, or cardboard, but being careful I freed almost all with only a few breaks.

Tanks are tricky because the glue gets into tracks. All my attempts were with rubber band tracks.
JmeDubya
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California, United States
Joined: July 25, 2013
KitMaker: 124 posts
Armorama: 124 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 06, 2019 - 06:56 AM UTC
My neighbor wasn't as lucky...



White glue! That’s brilliant. Tanks aren’t so bad, remove the turret and a screw and nut, they stay fine. But trucks, humvees and such are tough.

Thanks everyone for the ideas!
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