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Dioramas: Flora & Fauna
Trees, shrubs, nature and animals.
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How do you make landscapes with cell-u-clay?
Wolf-Leader
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New Hampshire, United States
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Posted: Monday, August 12, 2019 - 11:53 AM UTC
Ok,
So now I got all of your attention,here is what I need from you fellow modelers.
I'm in the process of starting to build my vignette of the "Death dealer" painting by Frank Frazetta, but I'm putting my own little twist on it.
I would like to have the character on his horse standing on a hill of skulls and other things!
Now I just finished making the base and of course it looks great,since it is made of Mahogany.Also,the base is approximately 10x10 inches and 1 3/4 inches deep so I will have to fill in the empty space and build it up for the look of being on a hill.Now the question(s)I have for you are these:

1.Since I have already filled in most of the empty space with excess items,what is the best way to fill the rest of the space in using my go to stuff,cell-u-clay?

2.When using the cell-u-clay,should I build it up in layers and let each layer dry thoroughly before you add another layer until you have completed the hill?

3.If not,then should you just make a big bowl of the cell-u-clay all at once and then pour it in all at once and shape it to your liking of what the hill will look like?

Any and all comments and info will be of great help.
Thank you.
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Monday, August 12, 2019 - 12:30 PM UTC
Well, I’m not certain of how you intend to use the Celluclay from you description, - are you applying it directly to the Mahogany base? Keep in mind, Celluclay is a water based paper mache product. As such, it will retain lots of water a long time. If you apply it directly to the wood, you may have warping or splitting later on. I use Durham’s Water Putty overlayed on roll gauze over layered extruded styrofoam when I can, so the water based product doesn’t come into direct contact with the wood. I also do woodwork, and the rule of thumb for woodworkers is the same as for flintlock rifles—keep your powder and your woodwork dry.
VR, Russ
Chillidragon
Joined: September 20, 2012
KitMaker: 104 posts
Armorama: 70 posts
Posted: Monday, August 12, 2019 - 01:39 PM UTC
YouTube is your friend in this; names I would try are Luke Towan, Kathy Millat, Maerklin of Sweden (all excellent landscape modellers specialising in railways, but with valuable lessons regardless of subject) and, particularly concerning basing figures, Luke's APS (different Luke).
ctkwok
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Alabama, United States
Joined: May 21, 2018
KitMaker: 197 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Monday, August 12, 2019 - 02:12 PM UTC
You don't want to put celluclay on wood, it warps badly. You are supposed to use white glue and put celluclay on top so that they would better grab the surface but even so the clay just shrinks a lot and warps itself. I gave up using it for groundwork and switched to sculptamold which shrinks relatively well.
Biggles2
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: January 01, 2004
KitMaker: 7,600 posts
Armorama: 6,110 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 - 02:17 AM UTC
I've used Celluclay very often. I always mix in some white glue to help with the adhesion. Since Celluclay comes in either white or gray color, I add some cheapo arts n' crafts acrylic paint for earth color - this is so that when my dio is finished, any chips or cracks won't show as a different color. To prevent a wooden base from warping, seal it really well with water-proof varnish, or even out-door paint. DON'T apply Celluclay more than 1/4" (5 mm) at a time - it will take forever to dry, and will probably create mould. Form your base contours from styrofoam (pink or blue insulation board), or wire mesh (wire screen material) shaped and supported by wooden blocks, or bunched-up newspaper soaked in plaster of paris shaped and let dry before applying a Celluclay layer. Celluclay can have the habit of curling up around the edges while drying - have some extra mix to fill any resulting spaces.

Wolf-Leader
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New Hampshire, United States
Joined: June 06, 2002
KitMaker: 1,225 posts
Armorama: 520 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 - 02:56 AM UTC
Thank you everyone for all your great advice and information.
GeraldOwens
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Florida, United States
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 13, 2019 - 07:44 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Ok,
So now I got all of your attention,here is what I need from you fellow modelers.
I'm in the process of starting to build my vignette of the "Death dealer" painting by Frank Frazetta, but I'm putting my own little twist on it.
I would like to have the character on his horse standing on a hill of skulls and other things!
Now I just finished making the base and of course it looks great,since it is made of Mahogany.Also,the base is approximately 10x10 inches and 1 3/4 inches deep so I will have to fill in the empty space and build it up for the look of being on a hill.Now the question(s)I have for you are these:

1.Since I have already filled in most of the empty space with excess items,what is the best way to fill the rest of the space in using my go to stuff,cell-u-clay?

2.When using the cell-u-clay,should I build it up in layers and let each layer dry thoroughly before you add another layer until you have completed the hill?

3.If not,then should you just make a big bowl of the cell-u-clay all at once and then pour it in all at once and shape it to your liking of what the hill will look like?

Any and all comments and info will be of great help.
Thank you.

Never cared for Celluclay. It shrinks badly, tends to lift at the edges as it dries, and can warp unsealed wood bases. Also, it's organic, and I live in the sunny tropics. One diorama was soon infested with weevils, dining on the Celluclay/white glue mixture. Only Durhams water putty and styrofoam for my groundwork.
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