
Costs less than 4 bucks a bottle and will do many, many models before it runs out. To burnish the foil down to the bare plastic you can use q-tip, wooden coffee stirrer, or a toothpick for fine areas.
Works for entire models, too:

Gaz
I played around with aluminum tape a while back and found it's pretty useless in model building. The adhesive is very thick and soft so the aluminum surface will show tool marks, finger and handling marks and the aluminum itself is also too thick. Bare Metal Foil is thin enough to show underlying detail which is why you can use it to replace 'chrome' on parts like grills and emblems.
We could also see it as an incentive to try casting our own resin copies of the "rubber" tires included in the kits.
Make a mold of the complete wheel and then cast with the styrene rim in the center of the mold. Casting the tyre in place around the rim
/ Robin
Quoted TextWe could also see it as an incentive to try casting our own resin copies of the "rubber" tires included in the kits.
Make a mold of the complete wheel and then cast with the styrene rim in the center of the mold. Casting the tyre in place around the rim
/ Robin
Nice Idea but "Casting the tyre in place around the rim" pouring resin round styrene will damage the styrene with a heat or chemical reaction.
If you are casting anyway, assemble styrene rim with 'rubber' tyre as one unit & cast that!
MiniArt solved this issue with thin sections glued together to form a tire... so you do not even have to have special, multidimensional slide molds. (https://miniart-models.com/products/35103/ see the instructions.) Tiger models also provided one-piece tires for their armored car... so yeah. They are lazy -and force us to spend more on kits.
Miniart planned a whole series of vehicles using the same wheels so the extra cost for those sprues could be spread out over several kits.
/ Robin
I Guys, Thanks for the warning. I have just gone through the stash and the only Takom kit I have is the M9 ACE which thankfully is all plastic.
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