I am trying to brush paint the interior of a Takom Panther G with Steel Wheels. I am attempting to use their 014 Rotbrun, with attempting being the operative word. However, after shaking the bottle for about two minutes and putting some on, it comes out looking very thin and watery.
I did a prep layer, but it did not help.
Do I need to spray it on instead?
I am working on the finished floor and transmission, so please let me know.
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MIG paints
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 05:24 PM UTC
ctkwok
Joined: May 21, 2018
KitMaker: 197 posts
Armorama: 183 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 05:33 PM UTC
I had that problem with some paint caked in the bottle and no amount of shaking could mix them. I opened up the nozzle ( yes just pull it sideways) and shoved a paint stirrer in, with limited success. See if that's your problem?
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 05:42 PM UTC
Thanks, I will try that.
If it doesn't work, I'll go back to Tamiya, I know they work.
If it doesn't work, I'll go back to Tamiya, I know they work.
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 06:53 PM UTC
It is a good thing I have Vallejo and Tamiya because I am finding MIG to be pretty worthless even though I bought their interior painting set.
I guess I learn the hard way.
I guess I learn the hard way.
varanusk
Managing Editor
Joined: July 04, 2013
KitMaker: 1,288 posts
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Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 07:50 PM UTC
I had limited experience with them, but yes, it's quite thin. I could airbrush it fine, with no thinning needed. Not sure how it performs with brush, but guess it would need practice.
Give thin layers, not soaking the brush and leave it to dry before applying the next.
Or maybe you should just save it for your airbrush.
Give thin layers, not soaking the brush and leave it to dry before applying the next.
Or maybe you should just save it for your airbrush.
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 17, 2019 - 08:00 PM UTC
Hola y Gracias,
I appreciate your reply. May attempt spraying the exterior with the MIG.
I used Tamiya and Vallejo as I said which worked perfectly. Will try your suggestion as I continue.
I have a habit of painting as I build as I like to get all of the detail, even though I may never see it.
I appreciate your reply. May attempt spraying the exterior with the MIG.
I used Tamiya and Vallejo as I said which worked perfectly. Will try your suggestion as I continue.
I have a habit of painting as I build as I like to get all of the detail, even though I may never see it.
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Friday, October 18, 2019 - 01:27 AM UTC
I recommend you put an agitator in the bottle before you shake it. If you don't have stainless steel agitators don't use bb's or ball bearings they'll rust. What you can do, and don't laugh because it bloody works, go out side and get some small 2-3mm rocks. Wash them with soap and water, let them thoroughly dry (I'll put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at 200 degrees for about 10 minutes), drop a couple in your paint and shake well. You should also invest in a mechanical paint shaker or use an improvised one. I have a Robart's shaker and it works great but some of the folks on this site have some creative improvised ones.
I've also used small pieces of glass used in fish aquariums. Sometimes you got to be able to improvise.
I've also used small pieces of glass used in fish aquariums. Sometimes you got to be able to improvise.
guni-kid
Joined: July 21, 2007
KitMaker: 521 posts
Armorama: 514 posts
Posted: Friday, October 18, 2019 - 03:07 AM UTC
Wow, some of you are getting real inventive when it comes to make some paint work. I mean seriously: There are paints out there (and not only those poisonous laquer paints of long ago, but modern acrylic ones) that you just shake well, maybe stirr a bit and they are good to go on your brush. Thinned also airbrush. If one manufacturer can't provide that, then why bother anymore? If it's one bottle only, then maybe something went wrong with it. Alright, if the others work, but if not: good riddance! There is plenty of alternatives out there. Why do the manufacturers homework and try to invent something to make their colors work? Just my two cents...
PS: MIG bottles are supposed to come equipped with stainless steel balls ready to go.
PPS: Yes, MIG colors can be a pain, with brush and airbrush. So I'm done with them for quite a while already. My experience anyway.
PS: MIG bottles are supposed to come equipped with stainless steel balls ready to go.
PPS: Yes, MIG colors can be a pain, with brush and airbrush. So I'm done with them for quite a while already. My experience anyway.
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Friday, October 18, 2019 - 03:32 AM UTC
Supposedly MIG has agitators in the bottle already, but thanks for the suggestion.
FYI, the Tamiya and Vallego dried perfectly overnight. Will try the MIG metallic colors to see how they do.
Also, I love assembling the Takom Panther G with steel wheels. The floor and tranny went together very good. I am not following their sequence though as it could leave gaps. Do not put on the tranny hoses on until installing the tranny.
FYI, the Tamiya and Vallego dried perfectly overnight. Will try the MIG metallic colors to see how they do.
Also, I love assembling the Takom Panther G with steel wheels. The floor and tranny went together very good. I am not following their sequence though as it could leave gaps. Do not put on the tranny hoses on until installing the tranny.
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
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Posted: Friday, October 18, 2019 - 05:00 AM UTC
Not all Mig paints have agitators, in fact none of mine bought this spring have them. If you have flat paints they'll settle in hours even after a thorough shaking. When I shipped my gear and paints base to base and overseas it could be 2-3 months before I'd get them so they would settle out and the solids would be quite compacted. Since airbrushing needs the smoothest paint so it doesn't clog your needle, shaking with agitators is the only way to make sure you get rid of all the lumps. When I brush paint I'll pour out a bit of paint at a time then each time I need more paint I'll give the bottle a shake just to make sure it's still mixed. Call it paranoia, call it 40 plus years of model building and seeing problems caused by poorly mixed paint including all the various enamel there were back then and lacquers. Nowadays I do things I've learned over the years to eliminate as many potential problems as possible before I even put paint to plastic.
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
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Posted: Wednesday, October 23, 2019 - 03:27 AM UTC
I have not found MiG Paints to be great for brush painting, much like Tamiya. Gunze, Vallejo, Model Master Acryl all brush paint very well. Tamiya and MiG (the ones I've used) not so much. They airbrush well, but not brush.
Paul
Paul
Florre
Joined: February 11, 2003
KitMaker: 980 posts
Armorama: 158 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 08:13 AM UTC
Same here, tamiya sometimes dries on your brush before you even get to the model (alcohol-based) 
perfect for airbrush though!
perfect for airbrush though!Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Thursday, October 24, 2019 - 04:12 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have not found MiG Paints to be great for brush painting, much like Tamiya. Gunze, Vallejo, Model Master Acryl all brush paint very well. Tamiya and MiG (the ones I've used) not so much. They airbrush well, but not brush.
Paul
I love Tamiya paints and have never had a problem with them. I dip the brush in distilled water which helps it flow smoothly. This trick really works.
Back to the MIG paints, I used a light grey base using Vallejo's and then applied the MIG Cremeweis over it. This is after I transferred the contents to a Model Master glass jar. I plan to do this with other MIG paints as well.
On the Takom front, I am having fun putting their 2120 Panther G together, although I am making it a later model since it has the correct parts. The floor, transmission, firewall and lower sides are complete.
BunkerBuster
Joined: March 29, 2017
KitMaker: 157 posts
Armorama: 122 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 01:16 AM UTC
I'll add my two cents on Mig paint. First and foremost, it needs to be applied over a good primer. It hates bare plastic and you will drive yourself insane if you try to brush or spray it on without a primer.
When brushed on over a primer (or other brand of paint), I find it actually works quite well due to it's slow drying time.
If you are spraying it, don't use their branded thinner. Tamiya X-20 thinner works great as does Mr. Hobby SLT. It more or less behaves like Tamiya paint when you use these thinners.
That being said, I'm still not a big fan of this paint. I bought a ton of it when I got back into the hobby and now I'm simply trying to use up my stockpile.
When brushed on over a primer (or other brand of paint), I find it actually works quite well due to it's slow drying time.
If you are spraying it, don't use their branded thinner. Tamiya X-20 thinner works great as does Mr. Hobby SLT. It more or less behaves like Tamiya paint when you use these thinners.
That being said, I'm still not a big fan of this paint. I bought a ton of it when I got back into the hobby and now I'm simply trying to use up my stockpile.
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 03:45 AM UTC
Modelers are scroungers. One of the best things I found in years was these little glass vials from my neighbor. He's a vaper and he used to get these sampler boxes every month. Each sample came in these little glass jars about the size of your typical 17ml paint bottle and has a glass eyedropper and is air tight. I can mix paints and thinners, enough for the job at hand, and if I need to take a break I just close it up and no worries.
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 03:48 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I love Tamiya paints and have never had a problem with them. I dip the brush in distilled water which helps it flow smoothly.
I don't have a problem with it flowing, it simply doesn't cover well, in my experience, leaving nothing by brush marks and thin streaks. If anything, it flows too well and doesn't stay in place enough to properly cover.
Paul
Kenaicop
#384
Joined: August 23, 2005
KitMaker: 1,426 posts
Armorama: 1,316 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 03:53 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Modelers are scroungers. One of the best things I found in years was these little glass vials from my neighbor. He's a vaper and he used to get these sampler boxes every month. Each sample came in these little glass jars about the size of your typical 17ml paint bottle and has a glass eyedropper and is air tight. I can mix paints and thinners, enough for the job at hand, and if I need to take a break I just close it up and no worries.
I save all of my old Tamiya paint jars. They clean out very well and I store decanted spray paint in them, as well as thinners and mixed paints.
Pak_40
Joined: August 12, 2003
KitMaker: 392 posts
Armorama: 281 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 07:15 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI love Tamiya paints and have never had a problem with them. I dip the brush in distilled water which helps it flow smoothly.
I don't have a problem with it flowing, it simply doesn't cover well, in my experience, leaving nothing by brush marks and thin streaks. If anything, it flows too well and doesn't stay in place enough to properly cover.
Paul
Hmmm..., I do not have that problem with Tamiya.
Speaking of MIG, I did use it over a primer and it seems to be working better.
ttwells
Joined: June 03, 2006
KitMaker: 316 posts
Armorama: 77 posts
Posted: Friday, October 25, 2019 - 08:08 AM UTC
rtvmodeler
#136
Joined: April 06, 2002
KitMaker: 437 posts
Armorama: 391 posts
Posted: Sunday, October 27, 2019 - 07:41 AM UTC
I use MIG without problems, for brush first I give a layer of grey primer in the interior (small pieces as hatches, etc.), after I apply 1st. layer of cremweiss which is thin + 2nd. layer that is medium thin and 3rd. layer that is solid and ready!.For airbrush when is necessary I used a little portion of MIG Acrylic thinner 2000, is very good.
Regards!
Rodolfo
tankmodeler
#417
Joined: March 01, 2004
KitMaker: 3,123 posts
Armorama: 2,539 posts
Posted: Tuesday, October 29, 2019 - 07:26 AM UTC
Quoted Text
for brush first I give a layer of grey primer in the interior (small pieces as hatches, etc.), after I apply 1st. layer of cremweiss which is thin + 2nd. layer that is medium thin and 3rd. layer that is solid and ready!.
So, to get adequate coverage you're using 4 coats of paint in total? I cover in one coat using Gunze, Acryl and Vallejo.
That's exactly my issue, you can't get coverage in one coat.
I'm not painting large surfaces by brush, just small stuff like stowage, ammo boxes, tarps, etc., and I get good coverage on one coat. But not with Tamiya or the MiG paints I've tried.
Paul
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