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How to attach figures to bases?
GregCopplin
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 03:39 AM UTC
I've painted some 1/48 fallschirmjäger that are going to be entering a JU-52 transport. I’m using a coastal kit diorama base that’s made of a thicker version of cardboard. What's the best way to attach figures without using glue? I’ve thought of maybe using a pin but how would I go about this?
Biggles2
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 04:25 AM UTC
If you're going to "attack" plastic figures, I would use anything metallic and sharp - like a knife. They wouldn't stand a chance! An open flame would also do the trick! Melt the little buggers!

However, if you want to ATTACH figures using a pin, just drill an appropriate sized hole in the bottom of their feet, at the heel. Cut off the pin head, and CA the remaining pin into the hole. Stick into your cardboard BASE, and ...voila!

TAFFY3
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 05:30 AM UTC
Drill a hole in the foot of the figure to fit the size pin you'll be using. Insert the pin from underneath the base into the hole. The head of the pin should keep the figure anchored in place. You'll have to shorten the pins of course. You can reinforce the joint with Super glue. It will work with cardboard but lacks strength by itself. Hope this helps. Al
GregCopplin
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 05:39 AM UTC
Sorry for the spelling errors iPhone tends to autocorrect too much. Is there a type of pin you guys buy for this such thing or is it whatever will fit or is around the house?
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 07:18 AM UTC
Various spelling/typing mistakes corrected.

I would use any type of metal pin. Steel, as in steel pins from shirts , is unneccesarily difficult to work with. Brass is stiff enough but copper wire (easy to cut) is stiff enough. Any force that is violent enough to bend a copper pin would likely damage the figures as well.
If you haven't got a very wide range of drills I would suggest choosing a drill bit first and then find a wire that fits a little loose into the hole made by the available drill bit.

/ Robin
GregCopplin
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 08:51 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Various spelling/typing mistakes corrected.

I would use any type of metal pin. Steel, as in steel pins from shirts , is unneccesarily difficult to work with. Brass is stiff enough but copper wire (easy to cut) is stiff enough. Any force that is violent enough to bend a copper pin would likely damage the figures as well.
If you haven't got a very wide range of drills I would suggest choosing a drill bit first and then find a wire that fits a little loose into the hole made by the available drill bit.

/ Robin


Thank you. As of right now i have a hand drill for the minor holes that i have to cut out in certain kits. Nothing to crazy just a little one that i can switch out a range of heads on.
nikon1
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Posted: Tuesday, November 05, 2019 - 08:57 AM UTC
I use .15 brass wire inserted into the foot and drill a .15 hole in the base using a #78 drill bit then I place the figure on the base. Easy peasy done.
Cheers
Charlie
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 - 04:07 AM UTC
If you go to the friendly neighborhood $ store and look in the sewing section, you will probably find a small box of hundreds of straight pins, for sewing, about an inch long. Not sure if they are actually steel, or not, but they are soft enough to cut with wire cutters. A lot cheaper than buying brass rod.
GregCopplin
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Posted: Wednesday, November 06, 2019 - 07:20 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If you go to the friendly neighborhood $ store and look in the sewing section, you will probably find a small box of hundreds of straight pins, for sewing, about an inch long. Not sure if they are actually steel, or not, but they are soft enough to cut with wire cutters. A lot cheaper than buying brass rod.


I’ll have to check that out. Probably a hobby lobby or Michaels would have them i hope.
Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, November 07, 2019 - 10:44 AM UTC
Don't buy good quality pins - the steel will be hard and hard to cut. Stick with the cheap ones - they will be easier.
GregCopplin
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Posted: Thursday, November 07, 2019 - 03:05 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Don't buy good quality pins - the steel will be hard and hard to cut. Stick with the cheap ones - they will be easier.

Thanks for the tip
petbat
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Posted: Thursday, November 07, 2019 - 03:16 PM UTC
For 1/48th scale, you could probably even get away with using stretched sprue. Don't stretch it too much, just enough to get a reasonable thickness like wire, etc.

If you want to go the wire approach, try and find some beading wire in a craft shop. It is soft enough to cut that you do not need proper wire cutters, but do not use your best styrene nippers anyway...
srmalloy
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Posted: Monday, November 18, 2019 - 09:17 AM UTC

Quoted Text

If you go to the friendly neighborhood $ store and look in the sewing section, you will probably find a small box of hundreds of straight pins, for sewing, about an inch long. Not sure if they are actually steel, or not, but they are soft enough to cut with wire cutters. A lot cheaper than buying brass rod.


For sticking into what he describes as thick cardboard, a simple pin may not provide enough stability. For additional bracing to keep the pin vertical, get some brass flat-head thumbtacks. Put a small drop of paint where you intend to drill the pin holes on the figure, then put it on the diorama base where it is to stand, then use the marks to push a thumbtack down through the cardboard to make holes. Turn the cardboard over and insert a thumbtack up through the cardboard to stick up, then mount the figure down onto the pin, trimming it if necessary. The head of the push-pin will keep the pin vertical.

If you have a thicker or more rigid base, just a length of wire as a pin is enough, but cardboard may not be sturdy enough to keep the pin in place without support.
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