Great job clearing out the trench and fabricating new cables, G!

As far as my own build of this kit goes, I‘ll start in on it after I finish Takom‘s M46 Patton, maybe even before Christmas but certainly in the first part of January or so.

And speaking of modeling skills, when I get around to my Amusing Hobby Conqueror, your build a few months ago of the same will serve as inspiration - I thought that turned out really well.

Have a good one,

Jerry

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for the supportive comments, the 'trench' was a bit of a 'b' to clean out, but I think it was worth it in the end. The cables could be better, but they're probably better than the moulded on ones.

Will we see some images of your Patton?

The Amusing Hobby Conqueror was a doddle compared to the AFV Club Centurion, hopefully you'll enjoy both builds, and make less errors than I have, .

Cheers, and thanks again, .

G

I think your replacement cables look better. I probably won‘t be replacing mine, but I will be trimming off all the molded-on tie-downs on the turret and the bazooka plates and replacing them with etch - just so you don‘t have all the fun with fiddly stuff!





If it turns out okay, probably...just a warning, though, I won‘t be putting a tiger face on mine!

Looking forward to further progress.

Jerry

Hi Al,

Thanks for the permission, much appreciated. I hope you continue to enjoy the build, .

Cheers, ,

G

Hi Jerry,

You're a braver man than me, I made a bit of a dogs-dinner with the photo etch on the Amusing Hobby Conqueror and am dreading it again on the Centurion. I would prefer it if you were given the choice of either/or when it comes to parts, but adding photo etch voluntarily as you are with the tie-downs, that's the kind of fun I'll happily leave to you, .

I'm sure your Patton will look really good, with or without a tiger face, .

Cheers, ,

G

Hi all,

A tad more progress today, it's beginning to look a lot like Christmaaa, ooops!, I meant to say...like a tank, .

A couple of the turret stowage bins are fitted and the rear hull plate is decked out and track guards fitted, complete with damaged mud flaps (see images below).







On the 'Early' version the two small hooks and the telephone box rely on one eye-balling their location as opposed to there being clearly defined locations, so I wouldn't swear they're exactly right (see image below)...to paraphrase Eric Morecambe, I'm using all the right parts, but not necessarily in the right order, .



On the 'Late' version plate there are holes for the phone box and more clearly defined locations for the hooks, not sure why it's different, .

Cheers, .

G

Hi all,

Does anyone know how the armoured cables on the turret were held in place? Obviously, they were connected at either end, but was the length between spot or continuously welded, 'bracketed', or fixed to the turret in some other way?

I have looked at quite a few images, but I haven't been able to find a good close-up one that answers my question. I can't believe it was simply formed to shape and rested in place as it would have been torn off or shaken loose.

I'm just wondering whether I have to represent something on the model, or not, .

Any help would be greatly appreciated, cheers, .

G

There's a conduit clip on each one - standard half loop with a bolt on one side, which you can make from lead foil and bolt head.

Hi Robert,

Thank you for the information and how to model them, do they occur at set intervals along the length of the cable?

Cheers, .

G

If my memory serves me correctly there's only one on each side, usually right behind the lifting "ears."

Links to large/largish images which would be shown in reduced size if I included them as images in this post.
The images show a mixture of Centurion versions and the cables seem to have moved a little to make room for other stuff so view them with this in mind.
Click the links and enjoy:
http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/mark_minnis/centurion_mk5/images/centurion_mk5_58_of_71.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/mark_minnis/centurion_mk5/images/centurion_mk5_49_of_71.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/mark_minnis/centurion_mk5/images/centurion_mk5_38_of_71.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/daryl_nightingale/centurion_mk_5/images/centurion_mk_5_44_of_91.jpg
Cable is gone but the clip is still there

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/daryl_nightingale/centurion_mk_5/images/centurion_mk_5_32_of_91.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/daryl_nightingale/centurion_mk_5/images/centurion_mk_5_22_of_91.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/robert_de_craecker/centurion_fv4011_mk.6_105mm_l7a1/images/centurion_fv4011_mk.6_105mm_17a1_08_of_56.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/scott_tremblay/centurion_iii/images/centurion_iii_11_of_24.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/scott_tremblay/centurion_iii/images/centurion_iii_14_of_24.jpg

http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/azrael_raven/centurion/images/centurion_39_of_46.jpg
No cable clip but a good view of the little box where the cable comes out from the turret roof.


Bonus image of the famous drain-hole, it appears to slope outwards so drilling from the inside and outwards will give a good angle:
http://data3.primeportal.net/tanks/robert_de_craecker/centurion_fv4011_mk.6_105mm_l7a1/images/centurion_fv4011_mk.6_105mm_17a1_55_of_56.jpg


The Motherlode of all the goodies above:
http://www.primeportal.net/the_battlefield.htm

/ Robin

Not sure which ones you are referring to but this is from a 300 shot walkaround of a 1951 Mk V. Plenty of detailed shots

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2576785839042272&set=oa.1168059846721588&type=3&theater&ifg=1

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=2576793789041477&set=oa.1168059846721588&type=3&theater&ifg=1

Hi Robert,

Thank you for the update, your informational support is much appreciated.

Cheers, .

G

Hi Robin,

Thank you for all the images, you always manage to come through with the goodies...and this time you've outdone yourself.

I imagine a lot of people reading your post will be saving the 'Motherlode' link to their 'favourites'...I know I will be, ... it's an excellent library of images.

Thanks again, and cheers, .

G

Hi Al,

Thank you for the images, you might not have been sure as to what I was referring but you got it bang-on, .

Are the 300 images ones you've taken, if so, I imagine it was a fun experience clambering all around and over the Centurion. Do you know whether it was an ex-Vietnam Centurion?

Cheers, .

G

yes I took them on one of my (Then) frequent visits to the museum.I had the opportunity to drive it a short distance (second time in my life) and was quite an experience after years of Lighter AFV's (113 Family and Leopard AS1 ). It is a Vietnam vet and owned, restored and maintained by the 1st Armoured Regiment Association vets and kept in running order. Unfortunately the video I took at the time didn't come out. She lives at the RAAC memorial and Museum in Puckapunyal along with quite a few other Cents that served in Vietnam including dozers, ARV's Bridgelayers etc.

Hi Al,

The images are proving very helpful, so thank you for taking the time to share them.

As for driving the actual vehicle, that must have been a great experience, even if it was only a short distance. I imagine there is quite a knack to driving and steering something that heavy and, dare I say it, old.

Thanks again, and cheers, .

G

Hi all,

Didn't get much chance last week to do any work on the kit, .

However, today I have started to add some more fittings to the turret, some of which are miniscule, e.g. turret bin clasps (see image below with tip of toothpick for comparison)...luckily there are only 2 of these, .



I would also point out that the diagrams for Stage 23 are frustrating as there are a number of omissions, .

There appear to be 3 omissions (see image below, omissions ringed in 'red'), .



If we look at each one in descending vertical order I'll try and fill in the gaps, .

The cable reel mount base plate part number has been omitted; this is part 'I37' (see image below).



The 'blanking plate' for the rear escape hatch...think this hatch was also used to allow removal of the 17pdr gun, whereas the 20pdr as supplied with the kit could be removed from the front...is shown as being constructed from 2 photo-etched parts, 'G2-1 & G2-2'. However, I believe the instructions omit to mention that 'G2-1' can be substituted with a plastic part for those, like me, who dislike working with photo-etch (see images below), this alternative plastic part is 'K4'.





Finally, the rear, right-hand corner lifting eye part number has been omitted, I believe, at this moment in time that this is part 'I3', as the other three corner lifting eyes are identified as part 'I2, 4 & 5'. However, I haven't yet fitted part 'I3' as it doesn't exactly match the instruction image. The image appears to show a 'flange' on the left of the lifting eye, this doesn't appear on the actual part 'I3' (see images below, 'flange' ringed in 'red').







Can anybody shed any light on the above comments? I find the above omissions a tad frustrating, the build is challenging enough without having to try and second guess the instructions, .

Cheers, .

G

On looking at my instructions for the MK 5/1, you are correct that I 37 is the reel mounting plate as that part is identified.

With regard to part I3, I cannot be sure as the MK5 has a turret basket and one of the struts fits into that slot, but what I would say is that I still have part I3 on the sprue ( as well as part I2) and therefore I would deduce that I3 does fit where suggested.

Sorry I haven't commented for a while, but have been following and the build is very good.

Hi Norman,

No apology needed, just glad you're still following the build and taking time to contribute, it's much appreciated, thank you, .

In the end I went with my 'gut-feel' and your agreement and used part part 'I3' as I could find no obvious alternative...still frustrating though, .

Thanks again, and cheers, .

G

Hi all,

Slow progress on the turret (see images below), in the main this is due to the small, and fiddly, nature of many of the parts that bedeck the turret, as opposed to me being lazy, .





I am deliberately leaving off some small parts, such as grab handles and aerial bases, due to their fragile nature and often flimsy locating points. I have also decided to put a 'cover' over the 'cable drum', this is just tissue soaked in diluted PVA glue.

If you're modelling an early version it is necessary to remove a small element of detailing on the turret roof, the outline of which is just visible below, ringed in 'red' and labelled 'A' (see image below). The removed detail was similar to that ringed in 'red' and labelled 'B'...but DO NOT remove the detail shown in 'B', .



Yet further frustration regarding the instruction drawings, . In step '27' there are a further 2 parts that are not identified (see image below).



The part identified as 'B' above is, I believe, part 'Z10', however, part 'A' was harder to identify, . But I think it is probably part 'D4', one of the clear parts.

Is anyone able to confirm or dispute my thoughts, ?

Cheers, .

G

The Mk 5 turret is different and doesn't have a hatch there. However based on the mark 1 eyeball, part A looks a bit like part F17

Hi Norman,

Thanks again for the feedback, unfortunately, the MK. III doesn't have a sprue 'F', so for now I'll have to stick with part 'D4', though I won't be installing it quite yet...so still time for someone to correct me if I'm incorrect.

Have a Happy Christmas, and cheers again for all your help and input, .

G

Hi all,

The AFV Club Centurion uses quite a number of 'clear' plastic parts, especially on the turret, for the optics. Many of the 'clear' parts have only a fraction of the material that is meant to be 'clear' once installed, much of the material is actually 'solid', i.e. requires painting.

On my first build, the Amusing Hobby Conqueror MK. II, the optics were solid plastic, the 'lenses' needed painting to represent 'glass'. My only ever experience, therefore, has been painting vision blocks white, as opposed to using clear parts.

Therefore, my questions are as follows:

- is it best to fit the clear parts at the stages referenced in the instructions, then try and mask the bits that are meant to be clear, and then spray paint everything at the same time? or...

- is it best to paint the clear parts separately by hand and then fit them after the main element of the model is painted? or...

- is there another, better way?

Any advice, as always, would be much appreciated, !

Cheers, ,

G