John Lindbom shares some pictures of his Meng Rolls Royce armoured car in 1/35.
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If you have comments or questions please post them here.
Thanks!
Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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PHOTOS
Rolls Royce Armoured CarColinEdm
Associate Editor
Alberta, Canada
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Joined: October 15, 2013
KitMaker: 1,355 posts
Armorama: 1,229 posts
Posted: Sunday, December 08, 2019 - 05:15 AM UTC
Taeuss
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2016
KitMaker: 3,791 posts
Armorama: 3,778 posts
Joined: January 03, 2016
KitMaker: 3,791 posts
Armorama: 3,778 posts
Posted: Monday, December 09, 2019 - 02:25 PM UTC
Nicely done! I really like the subtle dusting effect which is realistic in my mind.
j76lr
New Jersey, United States
Joined: September 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,081 posts
Armorama: 1,066 posts
Joined: September 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,081 posts
Armorama: 1,066 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 - 02:11 AM UTC
Nice job ! How was the kit ? do you recommend it ?
JohnLindbom
Sweden
Joined: February 25, 2016
KitMaker: 32 posts
Armorama: 32 posts
Joined: February 25, 2016
KitMaker: 32 posts
Armorama: 32 posts
Posted: Tuesday, December 10, 2019 - 11:36 PM UTC
Hello and thanks!
I think the kit is ok. However I donīt know how accurate this version is. Almost all photos on the net pictures different types or field modifications. I used photos from the vehicle preserved at the Bovington museum as reference for the interior, but it is not the same type that I built. You can build versions of the vehicle from WW 1 with pe for the spoked wheels or WW 2 versions. The fenders are a bit on the thick side but easy to sand down. I used metal sheet and wing nuts from Aber to replace the four locks for the engine hood. Copper wire for the lights and scratch built padlocks. Also replaced the holders for the brown box with plastic cards. When removing the holder for the headlight from the sprues care must be taken as they break easily. The fitting is ok, just a small amount of fillers in a couple of places.
I think the kit is ok. However I donīt know how accurate this version is. Almost all photos on the net pictures different types or field modifications. I used photos from the vehicle preserved at the Bovington museum as reference for the interior, but it is not the same type that I built. You can build versions of the vehicle from WW 1 with pe for the spoked wheels or WW 2 versions. The fenders are a bit on the thick side but easy to sand down. I used metal sheet and wing nuts from Aber to replace the four locks for the engine hood. Copper wire for the lights and scratch built padlocks. Also replaced the holders for the brown box with plastic cards. When removing the holder for the headlight from the sprues care must be taken as they break easily. The fitting is ok, just a small amount of fillers in a couple of places.
j76lr
New Jersey, United States
Joined: September 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,081 posts
Armorama: 1,066 posts
Joined: September 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,081 posts
Armorama: 1,066 posts
Posted: Wednesday, December 18, 2019 - 02:18 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Hello and thanks!
I think the kit is ok. However I donīt know how accurate this version is. Almost all photos on the net pictures different types or field modifications. I used photos from the vehicle preserved at the Bovington museum as reference for the interior, but it is not the same type that I built. You can build versions of the vehicle from WW 1 with pe for the spoked wheels or WW 2 versions. The fenders are a bit on the thick side but easy to sand down. I used metal sheet and wing nuts from Aber to replace the four locks for the engine hood. Copper wire for the lights and scratch built padlocks. Also replaced the holders for the brown box with plastic cards. When removing the holder for the headlight from the sprues care must be taken as they break easily. The fitting is ok, just a small amount of fillers in a couple of places.
T
hanks for the info