Hi All,

This is a retrospective build-log of the Trumpeter 1/35 Tiran 6 kit in the effect that the building process has already been finished and I will start the painting in the coming days.

Tiran-6_WIP_01

The kit is likely well-known for those are about IDF vehicles; reviewed here on Armorama by Adam BERHIDI back in 2016, I think.

Although the Trumpeter kit has some PE details, I deceided to further improve it, so I incorporated the Eduard Tiran 5 detail-up set into this model because the original soviet vehicles (T-55 and T-62) share some parts/details so does the israeli modification. Actually some of the PE parts are done both by Trumpeter and by Eduard but as I found the Eduard ones looking more detailed, I used them wherever I could. Also, the Eduard set contains some details (eg hinges and lock of the boxes over the left-sided fender) which are completely missing from the kit, so all-in-all, I was pretty happy with the result.

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So I used the Eduard set to improve the front light cover and front waveguide in front of the light guard ...

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... all the jerrycan holders on the turret and the fire extinguishers.

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I always prefer to use single track-links instead of the traditional single vinyl track and I was happy to see that the kit has singles. After starting the boring sprue-cutting and cleaning process, I realised that the Trumpeter track-links have a bit poor details versus the ones in the Takom T-55A kit I used in my Tiran 5 kit earlier. Also the Takom tracks are already separated (oh Yes, I am lazy enough) and just a little clean-up is required. Surely a Friulmodel set could have been better, but being quite expensive, I decided to buy a Takom OMSh set from a local modeler and this is what I used.
The main gun and all machine gun barrels are also replaced - by RB Models a/m parts. The Trumpeter kit has both the plastic two-halves and a relatively simply metal barrel versions but when I checked the box content for some reason I did not find the metal barrel so ordered the RB Model version. After receiving it, I just found the Trumpeter one. However, the RB Model version looks much better for me, so it was built-in.
Another a/m part is the M2 machine gun body which I took from a resin Legend Tiran 5 kit (designed for the Tamiya T-55A kit, far before the Tamiya Tiran 5 was released) which I partially used to make my Tiran 5, based on a Takom T-55A kit. The M2 mg body was not used that time, so I could use it up here.
Also, many small details of the machine guns and all the ammo boxes are improved using the Eduard set. I do like the realistic holes in the RB Models barrels (see the M1919 mg for example, it is simply beautiful).

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Apart from the above improvements, I also scratch built some details like that 4-tube something on the left side of the rear turret basket.

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I tried to drill out the tubes but after my plan failed, I decided to remake them from brass tubes. The welding between the tubes is imitated using small plastic parts glued.
Another minor improvement is a small "spring" on the engine deck which I made from a round-wound electric guitar string, glued into a plastic holder.

The Trumpeter kit lacks the plumbing of the gasoline tanks, I have made them using solder-wire and small plastic tubes to imitate the plumbing connectors.

Tiran-6_WIP_04

Also made the gasoline tank holders from very thin Evergreen plastic, with a 0.3mm hole drilled and inserted a short plastic rod which is glued to the fender triangle-shaped holders.

The hull rear stowage is filled with some wasted hard-foam and covered with my favourite "plastic nappy-cover" which has a really great canves look after gluing with superglue.

Tiran_6_WIP_09

I do not know what the cyanoacrylate does with it, but the result is great - once it will be painted with canvas color, it will be amazing. To complete this part, I cut four narrow stripes and applied some spare buckles from a Voyager PE set.
Next time I will post "live" as the painting process will progress.

Happy modeling!

Very nice, Tamas! I got the same kit last month. I will use your build as a reference when I work on mine.

Thank you Joseph! Let me pls suggest you to read carefully Adam's review for those missing/incorrect details of the Trumpy kit wich need attention.
Also do check on-line walkaround pics of the Latrun tank to see other details to improve.

Cheers,

Tamás

Hi Tamas, what do you mean by plastic nappy cover. Do you literally mean it's a cover for babies nappies? Whatever it is it does look very much like the plastic style tarpaulins that basket covers/cam net bags are made of now. How does it take paint?

Hello Tamas,
Thanks for sharing these photos from your build. They will be useful when I get around to building my Trumpeter kit. I'm looking forward to your paint progress.

Hi Max,

Yes, it is a plastic stuff which was put overthe old fashion textile nappies whn my daughter was a baby (some 20 years ago). I saved some (unused, brand new, and obviously clean) for modeling to make tarps.
Interestingly it is possible to glue and litlle bit forming it using superglue and tweezers. Also one side has a bit overscaled texture which is slightly seen-through to the other side, so it imitates the tarp quite well. I will post photos about it during the painting phase, you will be amazed how much realistic it is.

Tamás

Hi Erik,

Thanks, you are welcome on board.

Tamás

Very nice work thus far. The Trumpeter kit is an exact copy of the tank at the Lantrun museum, which means there are some details missing or misplaced.

The most striking omition (nothin gmajor but in full view) is the bar protecting the searchlight from lowering the mg and shooting it. Trumpeter only supplies the mounts for it, the two little photoetch parts next to the mg base.





The last photo is a vehicle of the South Korean Army.

Hi Nikos,

Thank you for your comments. You are right, there are many details missing from the kit but I had no more photos available other than the well-know walkaround sets of the Latrun vehicle. I am afraid it will be finished as it is now, also because it is painted already. I will consider as "freedom of art"

I hope you will find the next posts interesting, too.

Cheers,

Tamás

I could start the painting process and now post the photos of the first phase.

Tiran_6_WIP_10

I followed my standard process again:

Step 0 - washing

I usually do not wash/de-grease the assembled kit simply because of the tiny, delicate PE parts glued everywhere. However, this time the main gun was cleaned with alcohol because as I experienced, neither the primer nor the paint adheres strong enough to the metal barrel. I do not know the reason, but I tried twice to mask the painted barrel for some tactical stripes in other vehicle builds and both times the paint was peeled-off when I removed the masking tape. Since than I carefully prime, paint and apply several protective coats on main gun metal barrels. And use decal stripes only.

Step 1 - black priming

Since I read Doogs' Black Basing method I am fond of that, so a full black priming was applied to the entire kit, using Gunze's Mr. Finishing Surfacer 1500 Black Spray Can. The black is coming from Doog's method to provide necessary depth to the recessed areas, the "finishing surfacer" is needed to verify smooth details. The 1500 grade was chosen by bad luck, having no other can available in black at the local model shop. Probably a grade of 1000 or 1200 could have been better choice but not found in black at all. One day I tried applying standard grey Surfacer using my airbrush but the result was a model full of cobweb like material plus a kind of heart attack syndrome, since than I only use spray can Surfacer. Gunze brand is simply chosen because it is japanese and those guys are crazy about perfectionism.

Step 2 - light sanding

After the Surfacer dried (typically on the next day) I lightly sand the very flat areas with a Tamiya 2000 Sanding Sponge. This time it was the front mudguards, the front rounded part of the fenders, the top surface of the external fuel tanks, the top and side surfaces of the turret boxes and the hull rear boxes. This is needed to provide the nicest surface for the base color.

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Step 3 - base color

In this particular build I decided to use Gunze's TC21 IDF Gray 1 (Modern) Color from the CS631 set (I have all brand paints quoted to be "IDF modern color paint" but could not find any build using this one). It was slightly thinned with the Gunze Mr. Color Levelling thinner and applied using my H&S Infinity Airbrush. To follow Doog's method, I always paint the middle area of every individual panel/part of the model. I alwaís avoid to spray the paint into the deep, recessed areas (here: behind the tool boxes and external tanks on the fender; underside of the slope front armor, vertical side of the rear) to make the model more dramatically contrasted.

Tiran_6_WIP_12

Step 4 - highlight

Once the base color is done, I apply a slightly lightened highlight to the very top surfaces (turret, engine deck, crew hatches). This time I used the TC19 IDF Gray1 (Sinai) paint, mIxing about 1:1with the TC21, adding another half amount of thinner to ensure light coates.

Step 5 - equalisation

Probably not the best word for this step but after the highlight is done (and I always find it overdone) I apply a final, very thinned - very light overall coat with the base color, this time really all around so the "hidden" areas also get some color.

After this layer is dried, another fine sanding is done on the very same flat areas.

Step 5 - timebreak

I do not mind if the final result is not in fully coverage because I take a couple of days to ensure full drythrough and to release the "rapture of art" and once I am sobered will check the job with cold mind to check if I am still satisfied. When I was young and played guitar with friends, always recorded the music we played. The day after listened to the crap recorded which was then fully erased from the tape and re-recorded. Similar "timebreak" approach helps me to make acceptable models :-)

So if I am not fully satisfied, I can correct the coverage (and other issues).

The other helping trick is to make some digital photos (a mediocre mobile phone is far enough just make sure the subject is in focus) and downloading them to a computer, zooming in them on a big screen helps to find building/painting issues. Actually I found here some which I will address, as always found. If you take only one thing from this buildlog, let it be that.

Step 6 - protective coating

This step is now ignored...

Step 7 - details

... simply because this time I wanted to airbrush the mudguards using A.Mig-032 Satin Black 2:1 mixed with A.Mig-033 Rubber & Tires color. The black is way to black, the latter is too grey, so a mix of them looks much better for me. Same mixture was then used to paint the jerrycans and the machine guns with regular handbrushing.

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As I run out of time, this is not yet finished, I will do it in the coming days together with the canvas and finxing belts of the jerrycan holders.

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As I was very happy with the masking I did for the mudguards, I applied same method for the hull rear stowage tarp. After basic masking the surrounding details, I airbrush painted it with several light coats of thinned Tamiya XF-49 Khaki (trying to apply to the very top surfaces) and also highlights using a 1:1 mix of XF-49 and XF-57 Buff (to very selected areas only). And finally overpained with very light coats of XF-49, just like the basic color way.

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Now I think the model is quite nicely contrasted without preshading or postshading, thanks to the Black Basing method. Of course, this will be further enhanced using washes and some old-school dry brushing. But that is to come next times.

Cheers,

Tamás

Looks awesome, excelleny paintjob.

Thank you Nikos!

I hope to post the next paintwork phase on the weekend.

BR,

Tamás

Spectacular build! I wonder what the doctrine said about operating the forward 0.3 cal...

I am sorry for that there was no update on the build recently but I was busy at work and had a little time only spent on this project.

Now I had a bit of a progress to share here.

Before any other words let me explain that the different shades of the basic color is simply because of the light differences during the times I took the photos. Actually this picture represents something similar color like in the real world - at least on my computer screen.

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First of all, I have realised on the photo uploaded by Nikos that there are three details needing correction. The top of the very far MG holder on the kit is closed, but it looks so strange (how could a tanker move the MG onto that?) so I had some doubts, but used the kit part as it was. On the photo uploaded by Nikos this part has a hole inside so I have drilled out the kit part, too. The other correction is the U-shaped parts on the two ends of the turret left had side toolbox. As I had no reference photo about it, I glued these parts fully over the toolbox, but Nikos' pic shows that this must partly be outer. So I removed both U-shapes and re-glued correctly.

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The last correction was the far spare track on the left side of the turret which I glued in-line with the first track-link but this was incorrect as the far one must be a bit offset upwards. All photos verified this, so I corrected.

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After all corrections were done, I repainted the necessary areas and hand painted all details. It was a good fun and prove some progress to the kit. All black parts were painted with the black-dark grey mixture to avoid the black details popping out too much. I had two learnings as well: the big IR lamp on the right side to the main gun had to be painted black. It is a relatively big surface and I had difficulties in the past to hand-paint it smooth and in uniform shade. Now I used MIG acrylic satin black mixed with dark grey and this mixture was diluted with MIG acrylic thinner (4:1 ratio or similar). As thisa was quite light covering the lamp surface, I had to paint it in two layers, resulting a mice smooth surface. After airbrushing it with Gunze's flat varnish, the lamp black surface is now amazingly uniform and smooth.

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The other learning was more interesting. I wanted to hand-paint the gun canvas with Tamixa acrylic XF-49 Khaki (airbrush was not an option). Knowing that the Tamiya acrylic paint is drying extremely fast, I tried to dilute it with Gunze Mr Color Levelling Thinner which I hoped to slow down the drying time. Mr Levelling Thinner was working very well, the I could hand paint Tamiy paint really nicely. A good learning for the future.

During drying time, I finished priming the tracks using MIG track primer. In my opinion it is not so great product like the Gunze Surface spray can but decided to use up, simply to save the money I spent. Actually the result looks OK so I fine with it but once used up, I will not buy again. Nothing criticism, simply personal choice.

Once all details painted, I decided to apply the kit's original decals. To ensure nice results, I slightly sanded the surfaces instead of applying a clearcoat. This method worked perfectly now, all decals went on without silvering. There were three difficulties: the long white stripe on the main gun wanted to slip away but finally tackled somehow; the decal designeted onto the turret left side small toolbox was way bigger than the toolbox so I finally changed it with the other decal from the back. It is possibly incorrect but still looks better than an overhanging decal, doesn't it? Lastly both (photo-etch) ID plates of the kit had to be painted black as the ID plate decals were too short.

Once the decals dried, I applied several light coats of the Gunze flat varnish. Here I had a strange effect: the varnish turned into white-ish on some places. This will be adressed soon (slightly over airbrushing with the base color) before I will start the washes, filters, drybrusing and weathering process. Same for the tracks, too. That is for the next update.

Tamás

Thank you Israel! I have no any idea about the use or useless of forward 0.3 cal MG position, perhaps someone else has info?

Hi Everyone,

I am sorry not reporting recently about the progress but there is a simple reason: there was hardly any time to catch up what I did.

Actually the Tiran-6 painting process is finished by now, all filters, weatherings applied, minor details painted (except the fire extenguishers). The last step was to re-install the wheels and tracks which were removed during the building process as I usually do.

But this time the right side track was causing lot of problkems for me as it was strangely shorter than needed for the re-install process. It could happen that during the drying time I moved the loose tracks a bit closer to each other and also the top section was pushed downwards to have a more visile sagging. I have no clue but finally I was not able to put back the track and the wheels onto the hull. During the desperate attempts I finally broke the track (actually both sides) and I had to insert one-one extra tracks, too. Once it was put back, the right side track looks so silly that I lost all my motivation to finish the project. That is why there were no photos taken nor any progress reported.

BUt surfing on the internet I have found the Miniart Country Road diorama which has a mid-high stone-wall section nearby the space designed for the scaled vechile. It was perfectly the same scenery which I imagined about the Tiran-6, partly hiding beside the wall somewhere in the Golan or Israel homeland or so.

I ordered the Miniart dio set and once received it was looking very nice. The base plate was already cut by size but the wall shall be built from two halves. I have checked a buildlog on the internet where I learnt that it is highly recommended to use scriber for cutting the wall halves from the surrounding vacuum formed material and to glue them using reguilar modelglue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5q3tvTEt5Ho

After cutting out the wall halves I realized that there is hardly any "fit" or so, they are so much offset or on the top or on the bottom side. Also I learnt from the YT video that it is recommeded to apply surfacer or putty onto the top stones to have a nice, smooth, stoney (stony?) look, rather than the silly cut and awful look. And anyway, what would I expect from a cheap vacuum formed kit? It is not a Tamiya Shake&Bake set...

All this was done and after the putty dried (I let it dry for a whole day) I placed the Tiran and the wall onto the base plate and saw that the wall is bit higher than ideal. So I decided to cut off the very bottom row but as the halves were already glued together (stupid me...) it took me a good 15 mins to carefully scribe both sides and torn out the non-needed row.

The next challange was to sand-off the top surfaces. Actually it went OK where I applied enough putty but there were two small places w/o putty and the determined sanding resulted two holes. It was impossible to fill them up as the wall is full hollow (the filling material would simply fall inside) so i glued two littel plastic pieces onto the holes and applied some putty to uniform them into the wall-stone.

Another round of sanding resulting another small hole and a repeated touch-up was needed. Anyway, ther third attempt of sanding had a perfect result and I could prime the wall with Mr Gunze Black Surfacer 1500.

The next issue was the base plate. Although it is quite big, it was just a bit wider but much shorter than my regular wood base, so I had to do some heavy modification using my surgery skills.

Actuially I think this diorama kit was designed for the WWII sceneries as the pre-formed vehicle (wheeled adn tracked) traces were a bit closer to each other than the Tiran track distance. Therefor the model was floating in the air when I placed it into its place. So I decided to cut out those sections where the model will be resulting the tank sitting into the diorama rather that foating above.

Also this decision helped me with the length problem. The removed mid section (under the model belly) was pushed forward until the edge of the wood base and I replaced it with those preformed traces which were not needed at all. Also some extra Evergreen styros were cut to fill up the missing areas (you can see them white in the photo here). All parts were glued onto the wood plate and put aside for a day.







Next evening I handbrused some PVA glue onto the joints and onto the styro plates and placed some small stoned and fine sand to imitate the Miniart surface (which looks pretty OK for me, to be honest). There was than a good coat of Mr Gunze Surfacer 500 and Tamiya Putty applied and carefully scribed to minimize the differences in between the original Miniart dio plastic and my implants.

The result is here.



No, it is not a photo taken on the Moon surface from the NASA files but my dio, indeed! It looks AMAZING, isn't it?

After 10 minutes of delectation I sprayed the regular Black Priming Surfacer to prepare for painting. BUt that is another progress report.



The wall is just temporarly put in place because I will need to add some putty right beside the track edges after the dio base will be painted, decorated with some veggies and finished. And a bit of a touch up...

Take care and #stayhome!

Tamás

Yesterday I could take some modeling time and had a good progress on the diorama parts. First I painted random color patches on the wall using all kind of brown, sand, yellow paints to have some pre-variation on the cover color (Mig-075 Stone Grey).



It was not intended to be perfect but colorful only. I tried to follow gófour simple rules: make it random; use multiple "earth" colors; paint the wall top with light colors; use dark shades on the bottom halves both sides.
Once it was dry, I airbrushed the entire wall with well diluted stone grey. The result was way too greyish, so a slight overpaint followed with a 1:1 mixture of the stone grey and sand color. Because these overpaints were covering the base patches more than intended, I enhanced some of the bricks/stones with a darker shade of yellow, the Mig-118 Burnt Sand.



I think it looks perfect now.

As you see, I also painted the dio base part with various "earth" colors including Mig-027 F9 German Sand Beige, MIg-030 Sand Yellow, Mig-072 Dust, Mig-076 Brown Soil, Mig-118 Burnt Sand and Mig-131 IDF Sand Grey. All well diluted and lightly sprayed over the terrain areas. The lighter colors applied to the traces and around the wall place, the darker colors onto the soil, where some grass will be applied.

And two shots with the Tiran 6 in place, just to check if the entire diorama matches in colors and shades. So far so good.





Take care!

Tamás