Darren Baker takes a look at the latest WW1 softskin to be released by ICM in 1/35th scale in the form of a FWD Type B WW1 US Army Truck.

Read the Review

If you have comments or questions please post them here.

Thanks!

Interesting that the military of the day would provide a comfy button-tufted seat that looks like someone's sofa and completely neglect such niceties as even a canvas cover for rainy days! Oh wait! These same office minions are still at work today providing the weird & not-wonderful to those on the sharp end of the spear.

My kit arrived a few weeks ago and very impressed with the details. I hope ICM issues a Army Service Corp driver to go with it. The Tankograd book ‘British Military Trucks of World War One’ has a few pages of photos of the FWD in British service.

Nice to see WWI vehicles being issued in plastic.

I agree with Darren that a little PE fret would go a long way towards improving the treadplate steps and would have also been nice to include an actual brass "FWD" logo for the radiator front.

Molding the engine side plates to be optionally removable to show that great engine would have been nice as well.

I would also have liked the inclusion of a cloth top for the driver's cab. It would have been sort of an old fashioned "Doctor's buggy" arrangement of a folding cloth top. Not unlike that used on the top gunners position on up-armored HUMMWV's and MRAPS today.

Oh well, I am just being a choosy beggar as I gripe about a truly well done kit that is a welcome addition to WWI modeling in 1/35th.

I'll probably finish my FWD about the time a PE set hits the market.

My thanks go out to Grant Robinson who was nice enough to share his unused cloth top from his Liberty Truck. I hope to section the top and make it narrow enough to use over the driver's area of my FWD cab one day!

Thank You Sir! >>>> Salute!

Would you happen to need any CCKW or Opal Blitz parts in return???

Suggestion: You might want to assemble the wheels BEFORE painting. I did the reverse and the tolerances are so close on the parts you then have to clean all the paint off the adjoining parts to get them to properly close.

You're most welcome Mike...glad to help !!