It does, and thanks for the other pictures you sent via email.

What makes good antennas?

hello zerotide, I want to welcome you to armorama, not many of us nebraska guys on here. As for antennas use stretched sprue or guitar wire. cheers Kevin

Well, it's finally done.

There are 16 more pics here: http://gallery.cybertarp.com/thumbnails.php?album=14446

I named it Harbinger of Doom and I am pleased with how it turned out.
I printed all the decals, even the frontal CIPs (made them in photoshop.)

Thanks alot for all the help!

Not bad for a beginner. Here's just my comments: If I'm not mistaken, that grey color scattered on the side skirts & top of the tank is some sort of weathering, right? Maybe you should drybrush using aluminum or silver color for areas you want to see worn & sandy colors on the side skirt, wheels, & the upper part of the tank to simulate that dusty appearance. For the exhaust grille I usually just paint it with whatever base color my tank is in & drybrush it with like flat black to simulate soot from engine exhaust. Maybe you should shorten the antenna, judging from those pictures I could say that they're too long.
Overall, it's a good build. Good job on your M1. Build on.

Hi Zero,
good to see new people to our hobby , that being your first kit you can be really proud , well done ... what you should do to get a more "used" look to your model is use a wash and drybrush technique. In short washing means using a very light solution of black/ brown and covering the model ... it should be only very light so there are no areas where it actually covers the original color, it should only create a shade above it ... just try it ... drybrushing means using a brush with almost no color left and then applying the color with multiple strokes to the model ... two ways: emphasizing the edges or the inner areas ... there should be in depth explanantions somewhere on this site or the web ... or just ask the x-perts here ...
cheers - Andreas -

Looking good Zero!
Just one small detail; the EAPU (in the busttle rack) is on the wrong side... (on the right and it should be on the left) If you didn't glue it, it should be easy to replace...

I was wondering, since you had placed the Hoffman device over the barrel, if you were gonna put the rest of the MILES training gear on the tank, to signify a NTC rotation or something? I didnt see the woopee light or the 50cal blank adapter on yet.

scott

Also, the miles receivers on the velcro strip along the tank.

I also noted something that was discussed on the M1 Questions and Answers (the really big post with like 20,000 pages to it ) You seemed to have put a roadwheel in front of the CITV. While it may not appear to hinder the sight and in fact probably doesn't for long distance, it really would hamper shorter range visualization. It looks good asthetically from the point that pretty much every other Abrams variant has it, but it doesn't look realistic from a tankers point of view (pun intended), which, by the way, I'm not; so I'd need an A2 tanker to back me up on this.

I had no idea what the thing was I put above the gun mount, and since the instruction booklet labled it as a "smoke grenade launcher" I slapped it on there. I was trying to make this active battle tank, so I didn't put on the light KNOWING that it was part of the MILES. Had I known that the Hoffman device was part of the training system, it would not be on there.

As for the road wheel in front of the CITV, I have seen that there on almost every A2 picture. You wouldn't think it would hinder any view forward, since the wheel blocks only a nice view of the front of the lower hull, judging from the angle.

BTW, how old are you Jeff? I am only 15.

http://gallery.cybertarp.com/thumbnails.php?album=15670

Some new pics up, I did some more painting, I fixed the orange skin color of the commander and painted the loader.