There are rare instances when I use it.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
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which testors glue?
rowdycat
Joined: September 03, 2009
KitMaker: 120 posts
Armorama: 105 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 07, 2020 - 08:41 AM UTC
Have used testors tube type cement that is slow drying. The new testors tube glues are advertised as quick drying. Is the slow drying still out there? If it is what is its product number?
There are rare instances when I use it.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
There are rare instances when I use it.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
Armorsmith
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 07, 2020 - 09:36 AM UTC
Most folks now use a liquid cement. Testors makes one but lots of folks like the Tamiya super thin(green cap). They also make a regular liquid Cyellow cap). Squadron also makes a liquid. These glues actually melt the plastic to create a bond. There are others out there but these are the most common and are readily available most places or by mail. Good luck.
Grauwolf
#084
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 07, 2020 - 12:28 PM UTC
Red tube.....regular or slow dry
Blue tube....fast dry
Product number varies with how they are packaged:
tube only, carded single tube or carded double tube.
LHS here still carries both types so still available.
Cheers,
Blue tube....fast dry
Product number varies with how they are packaged:
tube only, carded single tube or carded double tube.
LHS here still carries both types so still available.
Cheers,
Namabiiru
Associate Editor
#399
Joined: March 05, 2014
KitMaker: 2,888 posts
Armorama: 1,920 posts
Posted: Sunday, June 07, 2020 - 11:54 PM UTC
Gotta go with Armorsmith on this one. The only advantage of which I can think Testors tube glue has over liquid cement is that you can't tip it over and spill it on everything. Beyond that, the liquid cement is just so much better. I use Tamiya extra thin for most uses, and the regular Tamiya (yellow cap) or Mr Cement (Gunze Sangyo) for indy link tracks.
varanusk
Managing Editor
Joined: July 04, 2013
KitMaker: 1,288 posts
Armorama: 942 posts
Posted: Monday, June 08, 2020 - 12:17 AM UTC
Haven't used tube glue for the last 35 years and never missed it 
barnslayer
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Monday, June 08, 2020 - 03:39 AM UTC
Testor's liquid in a bottle for basic styrene kit assembly
Plastruc Plastic Weld if you're using Evergreen type plastic
Satellite City CA for PE or resin parts
Plastruc Plastic Weld if you're using Evergreen type plastic
Satellite City CA for PE or resin parts
JPTRR
Managing Editor#051
Joined: December 21, 2002
KitMaker: 7,772 posts
Armorama: 2,447 posts
Posted: Monday, June 08, 2020 - 04:09 AM UTC
I like the blue tube, the "non-toxic" type. It is product number 3521.
For about 25 years I almost exclusively used liquid glue. Perhaps like you, as you rarely use tube glue, but now I use it more and more.
I use it a lot - no need for fancy (and toxic) liquid glues to attach non-visual parts. It is tacky and allows me to position parts prior to welding them with liquid glue (if desired). It is great for attaching antennas, pitot tubes, grab handles, all manner of things. Once it cures, I hit the mated surface with liquid glue to strengthen the bond.
I think it dries slower than the red tube glue, but I haven't used that in probably 30 years.
For about 25 years I almost exclusively used liquid glue. Perhaps like you, as you rarely use tube glue, but now I use it more and more.
I use it a lot - no need for fancy (and toxic) liquid glues to attach non-visual parts. It is tacky and allows me to position parts prior to welding them with liquid glue (if desired). It is great for attaching antennas, pitot tubes, grab handles, all manner of things. Once it cures, I hit the mated surface with liquid glue to strengthen the bond.
I think it dries slower than the red tube glue, but I haven't used that in probably 30 years.
j76lr
Joined: September 22, 2006
KitMaker: 1,081 posts
Armorama: 1,066 posts
Posted: Monday, June 08, 2020 - 04:15 AM UTC
Havent used tube glue in decades ! I like Tamiya thin or regular cement. or Mr Cement .
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Monday, June 08, 2020 - 04:24 AM UTC
I have a red tube of Testors glue in my glue drawer, along with two or three other types of glue I haven’t touched in years. If it can’t be glued with Tamiya extra thin, Micro-weld, Tenax, CA, or epoxy, it isn’t worth gluing at all! (a bit tongue in cheek here). I occasionally have a need for a bit stronger bond on interior surfaces, but I find tube glue to be difficult to control and preserve after they’re opened, so I don’t use them very often.
VR, Russ
VR, Russ
GeraldOwens
Joined: March 30, 2006
KitMaker: 3,736 posts
Armorama: 3,697 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 09, 2020 - 09:34 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Have used testors tube type cement that is slow drying. The new testors tube glues are advertised as quick drying. Is the slow drying still out there? If it is what is its product number?
There are rare instances when I use it.
I do appreciate everyone's help.
Red tube standard Testors tube cement is still available--Hobby Lobby stocks it. I prefer it when the glue needs to be confined to a specific area (like assembling workable track links). Sometimes capillary action is not your friend. For other jobs, Tamiya Extra Thin is very good.
TopSmith
Joined: August 09, 2002
KitMaker: 1,742 posts
Armorama: 1,658 posts
Posted: Monday, June 15, 2020 - 03:16 PM UTC
What I remember about Tester's red glue was the stringiness of it and for the life of me, I never could figure how not to put fingerprints on the surface of something. 
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Monday, June 15, 2020 - 04:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
What I remember about Tester's red glue was the stringiness of it and for the life of me, I never could figure how not to put fingerprints on the surface of something.
Glue webs. Made me mad on too many occasions. They seem to be intelligent and would appear when you least wanted them. A thin glue web across the clear styrene windshield of a car you have labored on for hours and just a tiny tiny string of glue across the corner of the windscreen. And you didn't dare touch them or they would smear and make things worse. Or one on an award winning paint job that destroys the paint. When I got my first bottle of Testors liquid cement it was a game changer. Now I use both types of Tamiya, extra thin and regular (yellow cap) and Microweld which was recommended by a C.O. who built models so I didn't fume up the barracks.
bomber14
Joined: February 02, 2015
KitMaker: 330 posts
Armorama: 5 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 - 02:49 AM UTC
i'm just passing through here from the wingy thing page but i would have to go with the good old tube glue for most of my work. never use regular glue for canopies or car windows, it doesn't make a permanent bond. once the liquid or tube glue dries out it falls off.liquid glue to me is not good for gluing small parts and small assemblies because it does not have the bonding power the tube glue has, it takes too long to work and i had parts fall apart a short time later. about the only thing i use the tamiya liquid for is gluing fuselage halves or the like together.
Kevlar06
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 - 03:44 AM UTC
Quoted Text
i'm just passing through here from the wingy thing page but i would have to go with the good old tube glue for most of my work. never use regular glue for canopies or car windows, it doesn't make a permanent bond. once the liquid or tube glue dries out it falls off.liquid glue to me is not good for gluing small parts and small assemblies because it does not have the bonding power the tube glue has, it takes too long to work and i had parts fall apart a short time later. about the only thing i use the tamiya liquid for is gluing fuselage halves or the like together.
You must be the exception to the rule. I’ve built hundred of models using Tamiya extra thin, Micro-weld, Tenax, Same Stuff and Pro-Weld, and never experienced anything falling off. Are you using enough of it to get a bond? Are you using it without scraping away the paint? I’ve had just the opposite experience with tube glue— if it’s old and gummy, it won’t bond properly, causing poor joints and welds that parts wiggle free from over time. I typically use Tamiya extra thin to attach canopies and clear parts, I’m just very careful to do so during the assembly sequence, so I can hide any joint with paint during the finishing process. I build most of my models with the clear parts painted and installed and then mask again if I need to.
VR, Russ
horrido666
Joined: September 05, 2011
KitMaker: 37 posts
Armorama: 30 posts
KitMaker: 37 posts
Armorama: 30 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 - 05:07 AM UTC
Tube cement is still useful due to its gel nature. I use it on large components. I do a lot of 1/6 scale, so parts can be large. The slow drying allows more working time, and provides a better bond. Most of the time I use tamiya extra thin, but the tube cement still gets used. The standard red tube stuff is available at hobbylinc, FWIW.
Scarred
Joined: March 11, 2016
KitMaker: 1,792 posts
Armorama: 1,186 posts
Posted: Tuesday, June 16, 2020 - 05:46 AM UTC
When I need slower drying cement I use the Tamiya yellow cap. It's almost a gel and slower drying so it melts more plastic to create a stronger bond yet as easy to use as a liquid. Due to it's thicker consistency it has much less capillary action than thinner liquids. Like gel type CA it is used when I need more work time getting hard to reach joints together and secured with clamps or tape.
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