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Figures
Military figures of all shapes and sizes.
Realization.
VenomOrca
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Illinois, United States
Joined: June 20, 2003
KitMaker: 209 posts
Armorama: 169 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 06:27 AM UTC
Before anyone slings tomatoes at me for saying this...let me state i just wish to vent. and seeing as we are still under quarrantine i know of no other way to spout, so please take this with a grain of salt.

But have you ever come to the realization that you just cant get it.

thats how i feel with my figure painting...especially the flesh areas. been trying for over 40 years to do it...every tank kit that includes a figure, ive made the attempt. Some more successful than others...but nowhere near the realism i see on sites like this.

yes i have a bit of a perfectionist attitude, maybe bordering on ocd, but its discouraging at times ya know.

maybe im doing it all wrong and i dont even realize it and should just paint my figs a flesh tone, give them a shadow wash and be done with it, or go learn how to paint warhammer 40k and come back to this.


i dunno...just wanted to rant.

thanks for listening.

Armorsmith
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Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: April 09, 2015
KitMaker: 1,063 posts
Armorama: 1,000 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 06:46 AM UTC
I have somewhat the same problem. However, as I do not do dios I dont feel the need to achieve contest worthy results. I used to sweat it like you but now take a much more relaxed approach. I do like to include figs with my builds. My method is relatively simple. Like most of us I really struggled with flesh tones. For me I found the key was an absolutely smooth flesh finish. The only way I am able to achieve this is to AB all flesh areas. Then I use a reddish brown wash overall. Once dry I I will add more to deeper recesses, behind the ears under the chin, eye sockets. Once all is dry I will dry brush ever so lightly with the original flesh tone to highlight the raised details stroking only downward from the forehead to the chin. I will usually add a bit of red to brighten the cheeks, again stroking only down. Surprisingly this simple technique produces better than average to good results. At shows I frequently get positive comments on my figures and questions about how I paint them. Good luck.
VenomOrca
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Illinois, United States
Joined: June 20, 2003
KitMaker: 209 posts
Armorama: 169 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 08:36 AM UTC
As I have been watching many YouTube how to vids...hey I'm a modeller...that's my entertainment, I learned that they suggest using cheap makeup brushes for dry rushing fleshtones on figures...
So...I took the plunge and bought a pack of 20 makeup brushes for about 12 USD.
And you know what...it works somewhat.
Sure I'm still hamfisted and don't have the technique down yet...but the dry rushing is much more subtle than other brushes. They say its because of the softer quality of a makeup brush.
I want to pass this tip along because I know it will help a lot of my fellow painters here.
TankManNick
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California, United States
Joined: February 01, 2010
KitMaker: 551 posts
Armorama: 543 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 09:16 AM UTC
The struggle is real!

All I can say is I am better than I was - no more googly eyes for me! But I'm never really happy with the result.

Maybe get one really nice figure (it makes a big difference in the end result) and make it a model in it's own right. Stand alone. The reason I say this is that I think it is a different mindset doing vehicles vs figures.
barnslayer
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New York, United States
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 10:42 AM UTC
If you're into it, post some of your work and maybe get some useful criticism.

Make sure to include the type/brand of paint used.
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 01:57 PM UTC
Paint, Brushes, tools, patience. Those are the keys to good face painting. Make sure you have a selection of brushes ranging from ooooo to oo. Use high quality enamel, or oil paints, or acrylics intended specifically for face painting. Stay away from Tamiya and Gunze brand paints— they dry too fast. I always lay down a layer of three shades of enamels, (dark burnt umber, then a lighter shade of brown, followed by a basic flesh color dry brushed, then work in blends of oils on top. Remember, work dark to light colors. There are several very good tutorials on line. Try looking for ideas there. Good luck.
VR, Russ
VenomOrca
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Illinois, United States
Joined: June 20, 2003
KitMaker: 209 posts
Armorama: 169 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 02:02 PM UTC
my only source to the internet is my pos 10+ year cell phone with a broken camera.
i am trying to rectify this...so watch this space as they say.
Kevlar06
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Washington, United States
Joined: March 15, 2009
KitMaker: 3,670 posts
Armorama: 2,052 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 05:50 PM UTC

Quoted Text

my only source to the internet is my pos 10+ year cell phone with a broken camera.
i am trying to rectify this...so watch this space as they say.



Hmmm....that is a problem. There are a few in-print guides out there, and occasionally, hobby magazines will run a tutorial, I know I’ve seen one in the last couple of years from Fine Scale Modeler. If you have access to a Barnes & Noble, they might be able to order a guide for you. I think Kalmbach (Publisher of Fine Scale Models) has one out. I personally started painting miniatures in about 1966 or 67, with Mongram Models series of 54mm figures (yes, that Monogram, they had a line of lead figures). They had a great little tutorial on painting uniforms and faces in every box. That’s where I learned. It’s not really difficult once you get a few techniques down. Hang in there. I’ll see if I can dig out some of my old magazine articles that might help. I really like to see folks improve their face painting skills, and am always willing to help. Don’t give up!
VR, Russ
callmehobbes
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England - North West, United Kingdom
Joined: April 17, 2005
KitMaker: 751 posts
Armorama: 740 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 10:36 PM UTC
I think a lot of modelers feel the same about one or more aspects of the hobby. For me, it's the actual model making and dio composition. Sometimes I have to remind myself that it's just a hobby and meant to be fun.
deerstalker36
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Queensland, Australia
Joined: May 16, 2010
KitMaker: 232 posts
Armorama: 218 posts
Posted: Friday, July 03, 2020 - 11:39 PM UTC
i'm the same, just not quite there with figures faces.
watched all the youtube vids etc, then i saw the Vallejo video on painting a 54mm face yesterday. shows the colour mixes, ratios etc whilst he is painting, no fast forwards or skipped sections where the paint majucally blends. i'd recommend that if you can get a decent view of it.
Grauwolf
#084
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Quebec, Canada
Joined: September 14, 2005
KitMaker: 2,485 posts
Armorama: 743 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 04, 2020 - 03:34 AM UTC
Jon,
Get a hold of the MXpression videos by Oliver Kovacs...the best acrylic figure painting
tutorials I have ever seen.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/figurepainting1

Cheers,
barnslayer
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New York, United States
Joined: July 29, 2002
KitMaker: 102 posts
Armorama: 102 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 04, 2020 - 03:57 AM UTC
OP also keep in mind the subject in question. The quality of sculpture of the figures included with kits is often sub-par. It's not a blank canvas and a good reason why aftermarket heads are offered for sale.
You can polish a turd but all you end up with is a shiny turd.
RLlockie
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United Kingdom
Joined: September 06, 2013
KitMaker: 1,112 posts
Armorama: 938 posts
Posted: Saturday, July 04, 2020 - 06:45 AM UTC
David Parker’s recent book on modelling and painting figures is rather good and not expensive. It’s aimed at tank modellers who want to add figures so it’s simpler than the pure figure painters’ approach.
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