Armor/AFV
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
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Build a Better Paladin (Panda M109A7)
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Monday, August 10, 2020 - 12:49 AM UTC
DEV coming along, even though it's missing a few holes. Just need to add top armor plate and bolts.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Monday, August 10, 2020 - 01:05 PM UTC
If you've corrected the driver's enhanced vision unit, be sure to scribe the missing "D" shaped access cover onto the deck, and add bolt detail. If you didn't want to fiddle with the DEV unit, You'd still do well to scribe the cover in.
Also note that the mount for the unit is different than in the kit - an easy fix.
Also note that the mount for the unit is different than in the kit - an easy fix.
HermannB
Joined: October 14, 2008
KitMaker: 4,099 posts
Armorama: 4,067 posts
Posted: Monday, August 10, 2020 - 03:37 PM UTC
Quoted Text
DEV coming along, even though it's missing a few holes. Just need to add top armor plate and bolts.
DEV? Don`t you mean DVE Drivers Vision Enhancer?
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 - 02:19 AM UTC
No, generally speaking when I type something that's what I meant. I've heard it referred to as both, but generally DEV. You can Google both and find references to both. Now whether it goes by DEV or DVE on the actual Paladin, I neither know nor really care. I know what the BAE field reps are currently calling it - DEV, which is why I'm using that terminology here. The troops on the other hand, they just call it the thermal, which is more or less correct.
In any case, I don't think it caused any confusion on this thread, did it?
In any case, I don't think it caused any confusion on this thread, did it?
HermannB
Joined: October 14, 2008
KitMaker: 4,099 posts
Armorama: 4,067 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 - 03:14 AM UTC
Just was wondering what DEV means?
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 - 12:10 PM UTC
Access cover scribed. Now if I can find that hex rod for the bolt detail...
TacFireGuru
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Tuesday, August 11, 2020 - 01:22 PM UTC
Thanks for posting these Robert. I'm enjoying how you're posting the model and the real deal. 
Mike
Mike
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2020 - 09:24 AM UTC
Once you've removed the incorrect detail on the environmental unit, it's time to add the missing details. Nothing hard here, ammo can brackets are the same as the ones on the left of the turret...
Should now look like this:
Should now look like this:
panamadan
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 1,513 posts
Armorama: 1,449 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 13, 2020 - 12:43 PM UTC
Fun to watch.
D
D
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Thursday, August 20, 2020 - 06:51 AM UTC
Once again I have been called away unexpectedly. But you know what they say: When life gives you lemons, make a lemon meringue pie. I might be pulling the tail on an A7 soon. If so, I hope get a good video out of it.
In the meantime I've been asked if I might make resin copies of the Driver's Enhanced Vision unit and the electronics housing that I showed. The answer is possibly. I'd need about four more guys to make it worth my while. And yes, my castings very well done these days. If a certain Canuck is following the thread he can attest to the quality. So let me know it you're interested. Of course they can be retrofitted to already built vehicles as well.
In the meantime I've been asked if I might make resin copies of the Driver's Enhanced Vision unit and the electronics housing that I showed. The answer is possibly. I'd need about four more guys to make it worth my while. And yes, my castings very well done these days. If a certain Canuck is following the thread he can attest to the quality. So let me know it you're interested. Of course they can be retrofitted to already built vehicles as well.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Saturday, August 22, 2020 - 11:51 AM UTC
Well, didn't pull the tail on the A7 today, but I did pull the tail on the Trip 7 -
and also the one one niner:
I'd have to say it was a good day.
Modeling resumes in three weeks.
and also the one one niner:
I'd have to say it was a good day.
Modeling resumes in three weeks.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 01:55 AM UTC
D'oh! I realized I don't really need to be showing you my build. Why use someone's model as a reference when what you really need is the real thing?
Another huge gaff is not changing out the hatch on the turret top. The A6 Paladin followed the same idea as all of the 109 series before it, with an opening hatch. On the A7 the hatch no longer opens, as part of the climate control plumbing interferes. It is simply bolted on and can be removed for repairs. All other fittings are for the deployment kit which includes a T1 or T2 armor kit. And the CROWS as well. Despite what you may have read elsewhere, it is part of that kit. New TTP's don't include remaining a static target for counter-battery fire.
Use the existing hatch piece as a size guide for your new hatch. Add Evergreen strips for detail. Leave the hinge bolts on top of the turret, but do not use the actual hinge piece.
I suppose by the time this thread is finished you can use it as a painting guide for the cammo if you choose this scheme.
Another huge gaff is not changing out the hatch on the turret top. The A6 Paladin followed the same idea as all of the 109 series before it, with an opening hatch. On the A7 the hatch no longer opens, as part of the climate control plumbing interferes. It is simply bolted on and can be removed for repairs. All other fittings are for the deployment kit which includes a T1 or T2 armor kit. And the CROWS as well. Despite what you may have read elsewhere, it is part of that kit. New TTP's don't include remaining a static target for counter-battery fire.
Use the existing hatch piece as a size guide for your new hatch. Add Evergreen strips for detail. Leave the hinge bolts on top of the turret, but do not use the actual hinge piece.
I suppose by the time this thread is finished you can use it as a painting guide for the cammo if you choose this scheme.
skyshark
Joined: November 16, 2005
KitMaker: 703 posts
Armorama: 499 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 03:42 AM UTC
Does anyone know of a release date for the promised M992
kinmanb
Joined: March 19, 2013
KitMaker: 52 posts
Armorama: 49 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 03:51 AM UTC
I wish, although it is interesting that the box art of this kit has one in the background. AFV Club has posted about one, awhile ago but have not seen anything since. They have the basics since they did all types of the M109 hull. I think the only issue would be kit for the interior, lot of ammo racks.
skyshark
Joined: November 16, 2005
KitMaker: 703 posts
Armorama: 499 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 03:55 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I wish, although it is interesting that the box art of this kit has one in the background. AFV Club has posted about one, awhile ago but have not seen anything since. They have the basics since they did all types of the M109 hull. I think the only issue would be kit for the interior, lot of ammo racks.
Kinetic (I think it was them) and AFV have!!! Worked on both in my 1st MOS. They could make one closed and I would be happy.
HermannB
Joined: October 14, 2008
KitMaker: 4,099 posts
Armorama: 4,067 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 05:20 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextI wish, although it is interesting that the box art of this kit has one in the background. AFV Club has posted about one, awhile ago but have not seen anything since. They have the basics since they did all types of the M109 hull. I think the only issue would be kit for the interior, lot of ammo racks.
Kinetic (I think it was them) and AFV have!!! Worked on both in my 1st MOS. They could make one closed and I would be happy.
Kinetic is having good references, both pics and drawings. But I think that Raymond is concentrating on their 1/48 scale planes.
To be honest, an ammo carrier with no big gun is just boring for the mainstream modeller. And the few dozen kit that they might sell to Armoramians doesn`t warrant the making of new parts.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Sunday, August 23, 2020 - 06:51 AM UTC
Jenau.
Raymond pretty much said exactly that in a phone conversation a few years ago when I sent him my Caiman drawings and photos. The next likely company to take that one on would be Panda, but as you can see from this thread, I"m not sure I'd trust them to get it right. Plus they've been very unresponsive regarding a few other issues.
But if you're set on an M992 series, remember that the A3 will be vastly different from the A2,being based on the A7 Paladin, so you'd do well to use another A7 as a starting point.
I may send AFV Club the CAT references. They had the FAASV references from me as well and never moved forward with it, but it might be worth a try.
Raymond pretty much said exactly that in a phone conversation a few years ago when I sent him my Caiman drawings and photos. The next likely company to take that one on would be Panda, but as you can see from this thread, I"m not sure I'd trust them to get it right. Plus they've been very unresponsive regarding a few other issues.
But if you're set on an M992 series, remember that the A3 will be vastly different from the A2,being based on the A7 Paladin, so you'd do well to use another A7 as a starting point.
I may send AFV Club the CAT references. They had the FAASV references from me as well and never moved forward with it, but it might be worth a try.
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 01:41 AM UTC
In the very beginning I talked about fixing the rear hull, and then I want off in another direction. That's because I needed time to assemble the hull, which of course is now done. Again, even though I'm not home I can continue as I took enough photos at the time.
The issue with the hull is that both upper and lower pieces were badly warped on all three kits,so I don't think this one is a fluke.
The parts were so badly warped that there was enough torque in the twisted pieces that they did not want to stay cemented in place, so it took a day of gradual cementing about an inch at a time. And no, hot water does not work, nor does a hair dryer.
Since this is a quasi-review, may as well show the flash, which is very prominent on a few pieces.
This is the thickest flash I've ever seen. Even ancient Renwal and Aurora kits never had flash this bad. It's on both sides as you can see two photos up.
Not the kind that you can just scrape off with a finger nail either. Actually had to use an X-Acto blade on it.
More flash:
No sense beating a dead horse. If you finished altering the rear plate, it's time to finish the rear area.
So if you're wondering about the locking bar, envision it pivoting down on its lower mount so that it is parallel to the ground, and then what was the upper part locks into the hatch on the remaining mount. It's more secure than the small latch at the top of the hatch, but is rarely used. At any rate, mounting it on the hatch is incorrect, and again mimics older version of the M109 series.
If you want to do a hull interior you can show the bar in place. There's a little more work to be done on the hatch opening which I can show when I return home.
The issue with the hull is that both upper and lower pieces were badly warped on all three kits,so I don't think this one is a fluke.
The parts were so badly warped that there was enough torque in the twisted pieces that they did not want to stay cemented in place, so it took a day of gradual cementing about an inch at a time. And no, hot water does not work, nor does a hair dryer.
Since this is a quasi-review, may as well show the flash, which is very prominent on a few pieces.
This is the thickest flash I've ever seen. Even ancient Renwal and Aurora kits never had flash this bad. It's on both sides as you can see two photos up.
Not the kind that you can just scrape off with a finger nail either. Actually had to use an X-Acto blade on it.
More flash:
No sense beating a dead horse. If you finished altering the rear plate, it's time to finish the rear area.
So if you're wondering about the locking bar, envision it pivoting down on its lower mount so that it is parallel to the ground, and then what was the upper part locks into the hatch on the remaining mount. It's more secure than the small latch at the top of the hatch, but is rarely used. At any rate, mounting it on the hatch is incorrect, and again mimics older version of the M109 series.
If you want to do a hull interior you can show the bar in place. There's a little more work to be done on the hatch opening which I can show when I return home.
HermannB
Joined: October 14, 2008
KitMaker: 4,099 posts
Armorama: 4,067 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 03:47 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Jenau.
Raymond pretty much said exactly that in a phone conversation a few years ago when I sent him my Caiman drawings and photos. The next likely company to take that one on would be Panda, but as you can see from this thread, I"m not sure I'd trust them to get it right. Plus they've been very unresponsive regarding a few other issues.
But if you're set on an M992 series, remember that the A3 will be vastly different from the A2,being based on the A7 Paladin, so you'd do well to use another A7 as a starting point.
I may send AFV Club the CAT references. They had the FAASV references from me as well and never moved forward with it, but it might be worth a try.
In terms of superstructure, the M993A3 CAT should be easier to build than the M992A2. With some good references, I might give it a try....
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 07:08 AM UTC
The more astute among you may have noticed something missing from the rear of the A7. Something damn near every vehicle in the inventory has. Any guesses?
HeavyArty
Joined: May 16, 2002
KitMaker: 17,694 posts
Armorama: 13,742 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 07:10 AM UTC
Quoted Text
The more astute among you may have noticed something missing from the rear of the A7. Something damn near every vehicle in the inventory has. Any guesses?
No towing pintle?
TacFireGuru
Joined: December 25, 2004
KitMaker: 3,770 posts
Armorama: 2,263 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 07:38 AM UTC
Quoted Text
Quoted TextThe more astute among you may have noticed something missing from the rear of the A7. Something damn near every vehicle in the inventory has. Any guesses?
No towing pintle?
panamadan
Joined: July 20, 2004
KitMaker: 1,513 posts
Armorama: 1,449 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 09:57 AM UTC
I do see little black footprints on the above photo.
Kenaicop
#384
Joined: August 23, 2005
KitMaker: 1,426 posts
Armorama: 1,316 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 10:09 AM UTC
Quoted Text
I do see little black footprints on the above photo.
WTF!? Lol 😳
18Bravo
Joined: January 20, 2005
KitMaker: 7,219 posts
Armorama: 6,097 posts
Posted: Monday, August 24, 2020 - 10:42 AM UTC
Those are done with the side of the fist. Another gun had "Baby on Board" written into the dust.
So where then is the missing pintle? Using the same photo above, do they store it in that box? On a fitting on the rear hull plate? inside the rear hatch? In an oddment tray in the rear hull? Unbolt the plate and it's on the inside, so you just reverse it and bolt the plate back on? Or do they simply do without?
So where then is the missing pintle? Using the same photo above, do they store it in that box? On a fitting on the rear hull plate? inside the rear hatch? In an oddment tray in the rear hull? Unbolt the plate and it's on the inside, so you just reverse it and bolt the plate back on? Or do they simply do without?
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