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For discussions on tanks, artillery, jeeps, etc.
Track Blackening... Why?
Charleygnarlyp290
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 07:43 AM UTC
I just watched a video about blackening metal tracks and I began to ponder: Why is this a thing? Why do people use chemicals to blacken tracks as opposed to painting and weathering tracks like volks do with plastic and/or vinyl?
I've got some metal track projects coming up and this inquiring noggin wants to know.
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 07:52 AM UTC
1. Some/Most metal tracks are too bright.
Chemical blackening is one way of darkening the metal. Painting covers the metal and could hide some of that nice metal structure (which is out of scale anyway).
Paint could also make "workable" tracks less "workable"

2. Modelers love cool products (premixed washes for instance ...)

Pick any combination of the above two explanations
JamesL27
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 08:28 AM UTC
You can also sand off some raised edges to show the brighter, un-burnished metal underneath as an alternative to dry brushing.

I bought a jar of the stuff myself to try it out. Just haven't had the chance to use it yet.
Tojo72
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 08:44 AM UTC
I have used both methods,but sure the blackening process isn't always easy and not cheap,so I have painted and weathered with pigments and wash with great success.Painting has had no effect on making my metal tracks unworkable.I also have sanded paint off the metal tracks to expose some metal in spots.
Charleygnarlyp290
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 08:50 AM UTC
Thanks, folks.
I have used metal tracks once so far and just primed, painted and weathered them. I may crack and try blackening at least once just to see if there are any benefits for my style.
So, when blackening is used (or is it blacking?) is that supposed to eliminate the need for paint at all? Did most tracks come from the factory in a black color, or did it depend on the nation of manufacture?
Kevlar06
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 10:09 AM UTC

Quoted Text

I just watched a video about blackening metal tracks and I began to ponder: Why is this a thing? Why do people use chemicals to blacken tracks as opposed to painting and weathering tracks like volks do with plastic and/or vinyl?
I've got some metal track projects coming up and this inquiring noggin wants to know.



I think it’s a matter of taste and ease. I “blacken” metal tracks (Fruils) With “Blacken It” (TM), just to give them a nice base coat for further weathering. That way I don’t need a primer, and can avoid paint buildup. “Blacken It” also comes in a brown color if that’s more to your taste. However, it’s not really necessary to do this if you’re not going to be moving or touching the model a lot. A good primer and base coat of paint will work fine, but you may get a bit of chipping, and depending on the paint you use (aka, acrylics), you might not get the permanent adhesion you’re looking for. In general, enamels and lacquers are best for painting bare metal. If you use acrylics, it might be best to provide more “bite“ by etching the metal tracks with a product like “Blacken It”.

Just a caution here, “Blacken it” is caustic, and will continue to etch until oxidation of the metal occurs. Therefore, you should wash the excess solution off when the desired shade is reached. This is especially true for photo-etched parts (yes, you can use blackening agent on more than just tracks). But the thinner and finer the material, the faster it will oxidize, and fall apart if you’re not careful. So be sure to rinse tracks, and PE off after you’re done. It also helps to apply a clear coat, to prevent oxidation from occurring. Hope this helps explain it.
VR, Russ
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 10:11 AM UTC
Tracks were usually made by casting some metal alloy so the raw colour would depend on the used alloy.
Any paint applied to the tracks would quickly get rubbed off. Surfaces subjected to rubbing against the ground, other metal or rubber tires would get polished to a bright sheen.
Search for images of the type of vehicle you are modelling, the looks of an M113 track is probably not applicable to a WW II Panzer.
Biggles2
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 11:21 AM UTC
Blacken-it, and substitutes, is a bit of a haphazard process - you won't always get a perfectly uniform coloration (or discoloration), especially when the solution has been used too often. The solution will lose strength with use. I also found that agitation is necessary during the process. Air bubbles trapped in the recesses in the track links will leave a void where the solution doesn't reach, and leaves bare metal spots. Put everything in a leak-proof container and shake vigorously and invert occasionally.
ctkwok
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 12:02 PM UTC
The blackening process rusts the tracks and gives you a very realistic texture that is hard or hard work to reproduce with paint and pigments etc. The unevenness of the surface also makes weathering a breeze.
vettejack
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Posted: Wednesday, August 26, 2020 - 11:41 PM UTC
In the modeling world: "black tracks matter"!

BootsDMS
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 12:02 AM UTC

Quoted Text

In the modeling world: "black tracks matter"!




Brilliant!!
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 12:03 AM UTC
Black Tracks
ninjrk
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 05:54 AM UTC
I tend to blacken the tracks simply because I have found that when I put flexible tracks back on they occasionally rub or abrade the paint and it flakes off, leaving a flash of bright metal that i have to paint over again. Blackening the tracks means that there is not paint to come off when i manipulate the tracks later.
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 06:56 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Tracks were usually made by casting some metal alloy so the raw colour would depend on the used alloy.
Any paint applied to the tracks would quickly get rubbed off. Surfaces subjected to rubbing against the ground, other metal or rubber tires would get polished to a bright sheen.
Search for images of the type of vehicle you are modelling, the looks of an M113 track is probably not applicable to a WW II Panzer.



I don't know about tracks but during the final phase of manufacturing foundries will often put a protective coating or finish on bare metal parts to prevent rusting during shipping and storage.
Kevlar06
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 07:30 AM UTC

Quoted Text


Quoted Text

Tracks were usually made by casting some metal alloy so the raw colour would depend on the used alloy.
Any paint applied to the tracks would quickly get rubbed off. Surfaces subjected to rubbing against the ground, other metal or rubber tires would get polished to a bright sheen.
Search for images of the type of vehicle you are modelling, the looks of an M113 track is probably not applicable to a WW II Panzer.



I don't know about tracks but during the final phase of manufacturing foundries will often put a protective coating or finish on bare metal parts to prevent rusting during shipping and storage.



Modern, hardened steel used in track construction is usually blackened at the forge. I just had a driveway gate repair done with 1/4” thick steel pipe about 2” in diameter, it was hardened steel, and came black. However, that wasn’t always the case with track. A local museum has a PzIV, and the track shoes are definitely not black, and were probably a silvery gray when new, now they are are overall rusty. Even hardened steel that isn’t blackened will rust quickly when not in use. In the same museum rest a Churchill Crocodile, and the tracks are nice and black, with almost no corrosion. It just depends on the vehicle, and the forge practices of the time. My hardened steel gate post sat for two days before I drug my crippled sorry behind out to paint the welded hinges. Where the hardening coat was scraped off for welding, the Metal underneath had already begun to show a bit of brownish rust, and it hasn’t rained here for a week.
VR, Russ
petbat
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 08:48 AM UTC
By nature of the Manganese added to production to harden the steel and make them more durable, the steel used in tank tracks is not bright silver grey if unpainted it as very dark grey. As said previously here, the shade varies due the amount added by the manufacturer of the type of track.

The method of abrading or removing paint from Fruil type tracks to allow the natural light metal colour be seen is not accurate. This misconception of silver is believed to have come about when people noticed shiny metal showing in B&W photographs and believed it to be the natural colour of the exposed metal, when in reality it is just sunlight reflected off the steel. Yes the exposed parts should have a slight metallic sheen, but a very dark one, often still with a film of dirt, dust or mud.


This photo is a perfect example to show this - This is a running Hetzer owned by the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum (who is having Armourfest this weekend - the Aussie version of Tank Fest). This vehicle had been running and then parked up, hence the mud in the track. Note the colour of the exposed track faces and ends, they are not shiny silver until you get to the two links near the top - the ends of those are a nice shiny metallic colour only due to the reflection of the overhead lights, but still not the silver of fruil type tracks.



As a modeller the same shiny light reflection will come from natural light on the model, so painting all faces silver metallic or exposing all faces on every tracklink down to the bare Fruil is not the way to go, in my humble opinion, but if that is what you like, then go for it...

So, to answer the question, the only real advantage of blackening is that any bright shiny silver metal does not show through the paint if chipped by accident.

BTW, the Tiger in the pic is the replica from Fury....
RobinNilsson
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 08:58 AM UTC
Umm... Peter,
Have you seen the brightly polished steel surfaces of tracks rubbed against the ground, rubber or other metal parts?
It is difficult to reproduce but Humbrol nr 11 does a half decent job of catching the impression at least.

Different alloys will get polished to different brightness but they will get polished
Charleygnarlyp290
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 09:01 AM UTC

Quoted Text

By nature of the Manganese added to production to harden the steel and make them more durable, the steel used in tank tracks is not bright silver grey if unpainted it as very dark grey. As said previously here, the shade varies due the amount added by the manufacturer of the type of track.

The method of abrading or removing paint from Fruil type tracks to allow the natural light metal colour be seen is not accurate. This misconception of silver is believed to have come about when people noticed shiny metal showing in B&W photographs and believed it to be the natural colour of the exposed metal, when in reality it is just sunlight reflected off the steel. Yes the exposed parts should have a slight metallic sheen, but a very dark one, often still with a film of dirt, dust or mud.


This photo is a perfect example to show this - This is a running Hetzer owned by the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum (who is having Armourfest this weekend - the Aussie version of Tank Fest). This vehicle had been running and then parked up, hence the mud in the track. Note the colour of the exposed track faces and ends, they are not shiny silver until you get to the two links near the top - the ends of those are a nice shiny metallic colour only due to the reflection of the overhead lights, but still not the silver of fruil type tracks.



As a modeller the same shiny light reflection will come from natural light on the model, so painting all faces silver metallic or exposing all faces on every tracklink down to the bare Fruil is not the way to go, in my humble opinion, but if that is what you like, then go for it...

So, to answer the question, the only real advantage of blackening is that any bright shiny silver metal does not show through the paint if chipped by accident.

BTW, the Tiger in the pic is the replica from Fury....



Now, that is very interesting. I have heard this very same thing before, and it totally makes sense. On the running vehicles I've seen I have never seen a silvery metallic color show through. I've seen metal , but not silver. This is definitely some food for thought.
I guess its too bad Fruil, or somebody doesn't make metal tracks in a more appropriate color...

petbat
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 09:06 AM UTC

Quoted Text

Umm... Peter,
Have you seen the brightly polished steel surfaces of tracks rubbed against the ground, rubber or other metal parts?



Yes, several, but polished or not, I have yet to see one the bright colour of exposed Fruil white metal... which was my point Robin.

Biggles2
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 11:06 AM UTC
Pencil lead/graphite would give the best polished gray metallic sheen over a painted surface. A soft lead drawing pencil with a high "B" number - 9 is the highest - gives a good metallic sheen. If you dull-coat over it, you will have to re-do the graphite. I'm increasingly using kit track, or plastic tracks anyway, because Friules are typically $50 - 65 CDN a set now.
colonelmustard
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 07:55 PM UTC
When it comes to metal tracks I have discovered that burnishing the tracks in a chemical bath provides the best results. I think the result is more realistic than anything I can add by just painting the tracks myself.
Removed by original poster on 08/28/20 - 08:09:33 (GMT).
Khouli
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 08:07 PM UTC

Quoted Text

By nature of the Manganese added to production to harden the steel and make them more durable, the steel used in tank tracks is not bright silver grey if unpainted it as very dark grey. As said previously here, the shade varies due the amount added by the manufacturer of the type of track.

The method of abrading or removing paint from Fruil type tracks to allow the natural light metal colour be seen is not accurate. This misconception of silver is believed to have come about when people noticed shiny metal showing in B&W photographs and believed it to be the natural colour of the exposed metal, when in reality it is just sunlight reflected off the steel. Yes the exposed parts should have a slight metallic sheen, but a very dark one, often still with a film of dirt, dust or mud.


This photo is a perfect example to show this - This is a running Hetzer owned by the Australian Armour and Artillery Museum (who is having Armourfest this weekend - the Aussie version of Tank Fest). This vehicle had been running and then parked up, hence the mud in the track. Note the colour of the exposed track faces and ends, they are not shiny silver until you get to the two links near the top - the ends of those are a nice shiny metallic colour only due to the reflection of the overhead lights, but still not the silver of fruil type tracks.



As a modeller the same shiny light reflection will come from natural light on the model, so painting all faces silver metallic or exposing all faces on every tracklink down to the bare Fruil is not the way to go, in my humble opinion, but if that is what you like, then go for it...

So, to answer the question, the only real advantage of blackening is that any bright shiny silver metal does not show through the paint if chipped by accident.

BTW, the Tiger in the pic is the replica from Fury....



And the Hetzer was acquired from Bruce Crompton of Combat Dealers fame if i'm not mistaken.
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 08:33 PM UTC

Quoted Text


Now, that is very interesting. I have heard this very same thing before, and it totally makes sense. On the running vehicles I've seen I have never seen a silvery metallic color show through. I've seen metal , but not silver. This is definitely some food for thought.
I guess its too bad Fruil, or somebody doesn't make metal tracks in a more appropriate color...



It's not that they intentionally use a shiny metal to make their tracks to force you to paint them. They are most likely using a low cost low melting point alloy, i.e. tin based pewter or a solder type of alloy, to make tracks. This would make it easier to cast links in a centrifugal casting machine at a much lower cost and in smaller batches. Tin based alloys can be quite brilliant. To test this if anyone has some metal tracks that may have a bit of sprue or pour gate left on it, touch it with a soldering iron. If it melts then it's most likely tin based.
Scarred
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Posted: Thursday, August 27, 2020 - 08:42 PM UTC

Quoted Text

Umm... Peter,
Have you seen the brightly polished steel surfaces of tracks rubbed against the ground, rubber or other metal parts?
It is difficult to reproduce but Humbrol nr 11 does a half decent job of catching the impression at least.

Different alloys will get polished to different brightness but they will get polished



They are starting to clear land for a new housing complex in a nearby town. For months. due to quarantine, the tracked vehicles have been parked and haven't moved. I've been watching as I drive by and have watched their tracks turn a nice iron oxide color. They finally started clearing the land last week and you can see the rust is mostly gone and the steel is acquiring a burnished sheen from grinding thru the rocky soil.

Tanks and other tracked vehicles don't move over the land. They move through it.
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