i've asked this a couple of times before,and i've searched all the forums,but I really cant get paint off one of my models!
i've followed advice from you guys and used engine degreaser,oven cleaner,bleach,thinner,anything!, and it still refuses to come off. i think if i cant get it off this time i'll just chuck the model away !! i only have this problem when i use the tamiya aerosol cans of paint,all other paint comes off. any advice?

May be a daft question, but can you wash the model to neutralise all the stuff that you've used so far, and then paint over whats left rather than chuck the model away. This would be my first option before trying to remove paint.

Yeah!. Just paint over it. If the coating is still not too thick and you wouldn't loose that much detail on it. I painted my LAV Piranha like 3 times. Both acrylic and enamels. My Chi-ha tank has got 3 camo scheme hidden underneath it as well.

Just paint over it dude. You'll be fine.

Go get yourself some Castrol Super Clean, can be found in the automotive section of stores.

This stuff will remove acrylic, enamel and lacquer paint in about 6-8hrs, smells nice, but is hard on the skin so wear gloves, but will not harm the plastic. Can also be used to remove chrome off of parts.

You can submerse the kit in it, or you can spray it on the kit and wrap it with plastic wrap to keep the liquid in.

Works like a charm!!!

Tamiya spray bombs are lacquer based, so alot of the stuff suggested probably won't work. The Castrol Super Clean might work, but I haven't tried it, it seems to be hard to find in Victoria. So in the meantime, I simply use NON-ACETONE nail polish remover. Works like a dream, although you will have to do a little elbow grease, it works very quickly. I just soak the kit in a pan full of the stuff, and just work it with a toothbrush, and rinse the model alot. Soon as you work an area to remove the paint, rinse it. If you've puttied an area, it usually removes the putty so you will have to redo the putty job.

Hey KellyZak, CSC is hard to find, Crappy Tire don't carry it anymore....but Wal-Mart has it in 1 litre and 4 litre containers...about $4-$5 for the 1 litre...so cheaper by the gallon as the 4 litres is only like $12 or something like that.

Will take on lacquer.....if it will take off 3 layers of automotive lacquer, over a couple of coats of primer....it will take off whatever Tamiya has to offer.

Hi
If the unremovable paint is a little too thick you could wet and dry it...and rescribe panel lines as necessary.
Add a little dish soap liquid to the water. And use lots of water and gently rub away the surface of the paint. The lightest of finger tip pressure. Use the finest grades of wet and dry.
If its working you can see the colour in the rinsing water...almost like diluted paint.
Cheers
Peter

Sorry to hear about your paint woes, Ave. The guys here have given some good ideas but I'm not sure whether we can get the stufl locally. I'm no paint expert but after talking to our chemist at the office she offered several possibilities:

1. Denatured Alcohol or Ethanol. The only ethanol I'm aware of back here is the fuel for RC planes and cars. I've played around with the stuff but haven't removed any paint with it but it is definitely not good for drinking. Sorry couldn't help myself with the last bit about drinking.
2. Isopropyl Alcohol. If I'm not mistaken it can be found in rubbing alcohol, the stuff they rub on you before they poke you with needles. Try our local pharmacies.
3. Lighter fluid(another alcohol) but you may want to try it on some scrap plastic first.
4. Artist turpentine used for diluting oil paints found in Art supply shops. It suppose not to hurt plastic and is good for a wash but how good is it for acrylics you may have to try.

Last resort, if it is a Tamiya model your'e talking about, I remember the plastic is quite thick so you may be able to physically remove paint over the wide, non-detailed surfaces by scrapping gently using the small screwdiver found on a Leatherman or a Swiss knife. Don't use the Xacto blades as it will scar the plastic.
Another alternative for physical removal which is probably better is by fine sandpaper. Look for No. 600 or No. 800 if you can get it. The last one is used in sanding glass and leaves hardly visible scratches. Careful though for its good for removing the top layers of paints the rest may have to taken out by solvents.
For the detailed parts just paint over as the other guys suggested.
Don't use Ammonia or any ammonia based solvents. I used a bit of Windex to reduce the surface tension of my acrylics so it would spread better and the next I knew the backpack of my green beret from Dragon actually looked like canvas (which is what it was suppose to be made of) because it had become slightly pitted.
Good luck and I hope you don't have to throw the model out.

Lieutenant Ave, have you tried to soak a paper towel to wrap it up to keep it all moist thru the night, now I had Laquer so thick it had to come off in three coats, but each time I soaked that paper towel and wraped it around the body so every square inch of the old paint would stay wet with brake fluid. use two or three sheets so it stays plenty wet.
Now I'm telling you that laquer was so thick it had runs in it a good 1/16 inch bumps, now that is thick, and it took a while, and at first I thought it never was going to come off, but on the second round it really started to move, that was when I started to use the paper towel.
I would tuck it into the places that it normally wouldn't lay, then I poured it on. Now I can look at a pure white car without a speck of lacquer on it.
Same way with the oven cleaner. I would have like three sheets of paper towel in my hand, and soak the model and towel, then set it into my big clear plastic can, and make sure I had paper towel top and bottom to keep the whole model soaking wet, and make sure you let it set 24 hours and seal the container.
When you bring it out use the liquid from the towel to scrub first, with a soft brush cause as soon as the water hits, that is the end of the oven cleaner action, I even used the wet towel to wipe it with that was in the can. Write down what time you put it in, cause if you take it out prematurely, that could have an effect on it to, cause I have done this many times and it has always worked for me. Please follow all the safety rules on the can of oven cleaner.
Remember keep it all soaked with paper towels in a sealed container for 24 hours, and most of all be safe.

Kerry

I had someone put brake fluid on the bonnet of my old car took the paint off down to the metal,rekon it will work on tamyia paint.

I apologize for pulling rank EasyCo. but brake fluid or DOT3 oil is pretty corrosive. Haven't seen it work on plastic but it will definitely take off paint, rubber hoses and a bit of metal. Best to handle with care if at all. While it may sit in a plastic based container in the car I'm not sure what plastic the container is made of so best to test on scrap plastic first such as a plastic sprue.

Hey ave,
Try Accu-Strip (I think thats the right name) by Polly S. My father uses it to remove factory paint from railroad models. :-)
JBM

Buy a cheap can of brake fluid. Pour the fluid into a disposable container covering the entire model with the fluid. Let the model sit in the fluid for a couple of hours. Take out the model and brush lightly with an old soft tooth brush to remove the paint. It's worked everytime for me with no damage to the model.

The fluid can be reused for another model if needed--toss the container and the toothbrush. You don't have to, but a disposable pair of gloves will keep the fluid off your hands and always wear something over your eyes.

Steve