I have always used ArmorFarm Track Wire for Fruil tracks but I have run out. That is the only wire I've used and was wondering if anyone has a specific type of wire they use for friuls (a link would be nice)? I am looking for .5mm but i don't want to buy a wire that is too hard and i am unable to cut it or if it's too soft like the wire Friul includes in the track set.
Next, I have never tried drilling out any Friul tracks wider than a King Tiger link where my bit is just barely long enough but i am ready to start assembling a set of E-100 links where my bit is too short so i need something longer. Anyone have a specific longer drill bit they use? I can find .5mm bits online but a lot of times the length of the drill bit is not stated...again if you could point me to a drill bit to use it would be appreciated.
Last question...I notice on the E-100 tracks each side has holes which I am not used to. I am used to drilling holes on only one side of the track so i can feed the wire through but will eventually stop once reaching the other side because there are no holes drilled out to feed the wire through. Am I supposed to drill out the holes on each side of the link so the wire will go in one side of the link and through the other side and i am supposed to add a drop of CA on both sides of the track link?
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Friul related questions
CellarDweller21516
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: March 15, 2016
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Joined: March 15, 2016
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2020 - 06:21 AM UTC
barnslayer
New York, United States
Joined: July 29, 2002
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2020 - 06:40 AM UTC
Regarding wire that's too hard...
Have you tried annealing the wire?
Have you tried annealing the wire?
vettejack
Florida, United States
Joined: November 23, 2012
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2020 - 07:22 AM UTC
Almost every Friul track I've put together, I've done with either .015 or .020 brass rod. Easily cut and easily sanded smooth on the cut edge (if needed), the brass rod allows enough flexibility to push thru the track link, yet provides enough stiffness without bending. I usually re-drill the holes in the tracks before inserting the brass rod...all the way thru...makes for a smoother rod insertion. I also apply a drop of super glue on each end on the rod/track, but never enough where it would interfere with the operation(s) of the track. Hobby Lobby, where I live, is known for stocking brass rod. And where I also buy:
K&S Precision Metals
6911 W 59th St
Chicago, IL 60638
They have their own website, or you can find them on EBay. Speaking of EBay...they also have numerous vendors where you can find longer drill bits for almost any hobby dealing with miniatures.
K&S Precision Metals
6911 W 59th St
Chicago, IL 60638
They have their own website, or you can find them on EBay. Speaking of EBay...they also have numerous vendors where you can find longer drill bits for almost any hobby dealing with miniatures.
Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2020 - 08:22 AM UTC
I've always used the wire that comes with the tracks and had no issues. Is there some concern with that of which I'm unaware?
Halbcl2
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: September 10, 2006
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Joined: September 10, 2006
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Posted: Thursday, November 05, 2020 - 09:47 AM UTC
I second John - .015" brass wire. Easily cut, and the ends can be sanded "square".
skyshark
North Carolina, United States
Joined: November 16, 2005
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2020 - 04:47 AM UTC
STAPLE's. I have always used Staples. Get a good pair of needle nose pliars. Bend only one end strait. Insert to the end not used into the inside part of the track closest to the hull. Cut the one end off and push the staple in a little. Then move the pieces to get some play. The white metal will conform to the paperclip inside. To easy, works great.
RLlockie
United Kingdom
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2020 - 06:31 AM UTC
I’ve always used brass wire, usually around 0.5mm. Tend to pick up multiple lengths at shows or in model shops that sell it so that I always have a supply in stock. Never troubled too much with specific manufacturers on the basis that brass is brass and they all seem to perform equally well.
I rarely need to re-drill links but find that rounding off one end of the rod with sandpaper helps it to push through. I insert one, mark the length, cut it and then use that as a gauge to cut the others.
I rarely need to re-drill links but find that rounding off one end of the rod with sandpaper helps it to push through. I insert one, mark the length, cut it and then use that as a gauge to cut the others.
steel_tiger1
Iowa, United States
Joined: May 14, 2008
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2020 - 09:06 AM UTC
I would recommend Phosphor bronze wire in the size you need. Readily available from Tichy Trains, Walthers.com or any well stocked hobby shop. Bronze is stiffer than brass and just as easy to sand. And useful for many other things as well like air piping, grab irons etc. not as brittle as plain brass.
TopSmith
Washington, United States
Joined: August 09, 2002
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2020 - 02:55 PM UTC
I too use staples with complete success.
dmiles
Queensland, Australia
Joined: August 17, 2008
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Posted: Friday, November 06, 2020 - 09:50 PM UTC
I used dress makers pins, 0.5mm drill bit and in they go.
alchemymike
Texas, United States
Joined: December 14, 2011
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Joined: December 14, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2020 - 03:45 AM UTC
I am building the Takom M-46 Patton and am using the Fruil track for it.... they are beautiful and have them cleaned and prepped for assembly
Questions:
1> is there a trick to measure and quickly cut brass wire to the same length for the pins? I use the .20 K&S brass rod also... I find the supplied fruil coil wire too flimsy.
2> I am having trouble with the medium Zap cyro glue ... I want to use very little to insure the track movement.... what glue do you guys find to be the best?
3> Is there a way to assemble these quickly... seems like its taking forever?
THANKS!
Questions:
1> is there a trick to measure and quickly cut brass wire to the same length for the pins? I use the .20 K&S brass rod also... I find the supplied fruil coil wire too flimsy.
2> I am having trouble with the medium Zap cyro glue ... I want to use very little to insure the track movement.... what glue do you guys find to be the best?
3> Is there a way to assemble these quickly... seems like its taking forever?
THANKS!
Halbcl2
Manitoba, Canada
Joined: September 10, 2006
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Joined: September 10, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2020 - 11:58 AM UTC
Mike, I have a simple sure fire way - to cut the pins. But I find it impossible to post photos here. Send me you email addy and I'll fire you a photo of the technique.
trmorgan(at)mts.net
trmorgan(at)mts.net
alchemymike
Texas, United States
Joined: December 14, 2011
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Joined: December 14, 2011
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2020 - 03:11 PM UTC
cool.... here you go
[email protected]
[email protected]
CDK
Massachusetts, United States
Joined: September 24, 2006
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Posted: Saturday, November 07, 2020 - 11:38 PM UTC
Quoted Text
I have always used ArmorFarm Track Wire for Fruil tracks but I have run out. That is the only wire I've used ...
First, thanks for your support. It's nice to hear about some of my stuff still being used/sought after.
The whole key to 'Track Wire' being so easy was a small flat spot on one side (perhaps two sides, it's been a while), this is what held them taught in a round hole. The wire was used inside some sort of machines that required that flat spot but I knew little else and when my supplier went awol I was left wondering exactly where I could locate more.
I've since moved on to Master Club tracks and their resin pins so I gave up trying to find a replacement wire.
Perhaps I'll relocate a supplier someday.
Reforger-Victim
Hessen, Germany
Joined: March 26, 2017
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Posted: Sunday, November 08, 2020 - 06:45 PM UTC
Master Club tracks are the better choice anyway..