_GOTOBOTTOM
AFV Painting & Weathering
Answers to questions about the right paint scheme or tips for the right effect.
Order of painting
Wolff
Visit this Community
Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 07, 2004
KitMaker: 22 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 02:13 PM UTC
Hi all,
Could someone assist me with either a place to look or their own sequence of painting plastic models.
I am new to this all and understand the various methods of priming, painting, washes, weathering, dull coat, and the like, but I am a bit unsure which order to do them in or which ones aren't as necessary. Also, this Future that is referred to, what exactly is that, and where does it fit in?
BTW, I am painting a Tiger tank which has had a rough time at the front. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Ad.
sniperwolf
Visit this Community
Pennsylvania, United States
Joined: March 28, 2004
KitMaker: 86 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 02:33 PM UTC
It depends. You apply the layers as they would realistically happen. If they were to put a layer of paint on a weathered tank in the field, you would apply the field paint after the first layer of weathering. Just think about it
ModlrMike
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2003
KitMaker: 714 posts
Armorama: 360 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 02:39 PM UTC
Here's my $0.02. Depending on the kit, and the subject, I often paint as I go. I will usually prime all the parts while they are still on the sprues with light grey auto primer. This gives something for my paints to stick to. After the model is completed, I usually give it a light coat of gloss finish. Whether you use a water based gloss coat or a solvent based one depends on what you intend to do next. Because my washes are oil paints in mineral spirits, I use an acrylic gloss coat... usually Future floor wax. This product is made by SC Johnson, and might be known as Kleer in Australia. You could also use a water based polyurethane here. If I were going to use a water based wash, the I would use a solvent based clear coat. My rationalle is that I don't want the layers to interact with each other so I alternate formulations. So, for armour here's my approach...

Prime, basecoat and assemble, pre-shade, top coat, water based gloss, oil based wash, water based flat, weather, filter, and display.

Here's a link to some modeling guides produced by Testors: http://www.testors.com/hobbyist_guides.asp
MrRoo
Visit this Community
Queensland, Australia
Joined: October 07, 2002
KitMaker: 3,856 posts
Armorama: 2,984 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 02:42 PM UTC
prime
main color
detail paint - door handles etc. including basic weathering of lighter coats of main color
clear coat gloss
decals
clear coat gloss
washes, pastels all weathering
dull coat - several light coats are better then one heavy coat.

hope that helps. Where abouts in Queensland are you?
DRAGONSLAIN
Visit this Community
Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: February 22, 2004
KitMaker: 779 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 02:53 PM UTC
OK, this is the method I use, I paint the whole tank, like the base color, then I brush Future floor wax on the places where decals go, it gives a glossy surface that keeps your decals from silvering, once the future is dry I apply the decals, then when they have set I apply a few coats of dull coat, this helps protect the base coat, seal the decals and make an even flat to the whole tank. I think it is important that the decals also get the same weathering that the tank gets. so now you let it dry 24 hours and start weathering, the washes go first, then the drybrushing, then then pastels(I haven't used them) go last. good luck!
ModlrMike
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2003
KitMaker: 714 posts
Armorama: 360 posts
Posted: Monday, April 26, 2004 - 03:33 PM UTC
I forgot to include another good link, this one has videos on different subjects:

http://www.scaleworkshop.com./workshop.htm
Wolff
Visit this Community
Queensland, Australia
Joined: April 07, 2004
KitMaker: 22 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 01:27 AM UTC
Thanks very much fellas,
This has given me the idea of what to do. Thanks for the great links ModlrMike, much appreciated. When I was at the hobby shop here I was encouraged to get the Testors Dull Cote, is this what you mean when you say, a waterbased flat, or is that something else again? I'll have a look for Kleer tomorrow at the shops. Thanks again mate, very helpful.

Mr. Roo, Thanks for your advice. Do you use Testors Dull Cote for your dull coat? I live in the northern suburbs of Brisbane.

Thanks Dragonslain, much appreciated for your time and advice.

Cheers
Ad.
DRAGONSLAIN
Visit this Community
Distrito Federal, Mexico
Joined: February 22, 2004
KitMaker: 779 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 02:26 AM UTC
No, dull coat is not water based, it is solvent based, but I have used enamel washes over it without ill effect, you just have to be carefull and if there is a water based dull coat please tell me because I was looking for one
the_unborn
Joined: December 24, 2003
KitMaker: 126 posts
Armorama: 0 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 06:28 AM UTC
i progress in that order

- base paint and camouflage
- Future or equivalent
- decals
- wash
- Future to seal the decals (you can skip this step)
- matt coat
- drybrushing
- mud (if any)
- pastels
ModlrMike
Visit this Community
Alberta, Canada
Joined: January 03, 2003
KitMaker: 714 posts
Armorama: 360 posts
Posted: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 - 02:46 PM UTC

Quoted Text

No, dull coat is not water based, it is solvent based, but I have used enamel washes over it without ill effect, you just have to be carefull and if there is a water based dull coat please tell me because I was looking for one



For "water based" flat, I use flat polyurethane... Varethane brand. You should be able to find it in any home center.
 _GOTOTOP